in message <[email hidden]>, krys
(') said:Anyway - I did it! Bude to Padstowe, along a NCN3 route, over a
totally cloud bound Bodmin Moor and along the Camel Trail, a total of
51 miles, 4
hours 10 minutes ride time. Me and my cycling mater were 1st in -
huge
grins on faces 🙂
Congratulations!
Quoted message said:And my bike held out, tho' the chain fell off a few
times. I had a fab time, and can't wait until the next one! I just
wish collecting in the sponsorship money was as much fun......
So, now I've got the bug.........there are a few more rides
planned.......and I've got a couple of questions.
1) I reckon on getting a new bike. How on earth do I go about
choosing one? The kind of riding I do is mostly on road or what passes
for it across the
'Levels. Not a lot of off road, but the odd bumpy trail. Currently
my Stirling House MTB has been enough, but I want something with
decent reliable gears, a good shift between 'em, and tyres that don't
look like
tank tracks! So am I after a hybrid? A tourer? What? And where
should I
go - on line or a shop?
Find a decent local bike shop where they know their stuff and don't
patronise you.
You probably already know the priorities:
As light as you can for the price - sacrifice 'features' for light
weight;
Hard, slick tyres are less work than knobbly, soft ones, and slicks are
only a disadvantage if the surface is very slippery;
As to whether to get a hybrid (straight bars) or a tourer (dropped bars)
that's up to whether you think you can cope with drops - but if you get
straight bars I'd really advise getting bar-ends.
Quoted message said:How much is this going to cost me - I want to
spend enough to get a decent long lasting bike, but I'm not fussy
about labels or top of the range?
You can get decent long lasting road bikes from about £250 upwards. What
you get for more money is better engineering (things which work more
reliably for longer) and lighter weight. Only you can decide where to
stop. My present road bike cost about £1500 all up, and to me it seems
a bargain. But a £500 bike is not twice as good as a £250 one, and a
£1000 road bike is definitely not twice as good as a £500 one. There
are real diminishing returns. And frankly if you're moving up from a
Sterling House bike even a £250 bike is going to seem wonderful.
Things which make a real difference include:
Carbon fibre forks - more comfortable ride
Carbon fibre seat stays - ditto
Carbon fibre seat post - ditto
Suspension seat post - not as good as carbon, but cheaper
A full carbon frame is wonderful but expensive - the cheapest full
carbon road bike I'm aware of is the Claud Butler Strada at about £800.
For your sort of riding suspension is not a benefit. On the contrary it
adds weight and complexity. A set of 'rigid' carbon forks will cost the
same as a cheap set of suspension forks, be much, much lighter and
under road conditions give you just as much comfort.
The frame is the most important thing when you buy a bike. Everything
else you can upgrade over time in 'bite size' chunks as cash flow
allows, but swapping the frame is a big and expensive operation. So if
money is tight buy a bike with a good frame and poor components, rather
than a bike with a poor frame and good components. What's a good frame?
Well, it's light, and springy enough to be comfortable but rigid enough
to transmit power well and handle well. These days cheaper bikes tend
to be too stiff rather than too springy.
As to components, generally I have more confidence in a bike which has
been built up with a matching set of components from one manufacturer
than with an odd mix from here and there. Don't get any manufacturer's
bottom of the range stuff, not even Campagnolo's. For Shimano the
decent road component sets are in ascending order Sora, Alivio, 105,
Ultegra, Dura-Ace; for Campagnolo, Mirage, Veloce, Centaur, Chorus,
Record. Something with 105 or Veloce parts is going to be very nice
indeed, and the top end (Dura-Ace, Chorus, Record) really are for label
junkies and weight weenies.
A bike I'd start by looking at is the Specialized Dolce. It's women's
specific geometry (which basically means a shorter top-tube - women, on
the whole, have shorter torsos and longer legs than men), good
aluminium frame, carbon forks, adequate but not special components, a
bit under £500. I'm not suggesting you should necessarily buy one but
if you have a good look at one you'll have something to compare other
bikes with.
Quoted message said:2) I want a cycle computer thingy, but the range is a bit bewildering.
I think I want a wireless one, and I want to know trip distance,
(with
automatic stopping when I do!), average speed, that kind of thing. I
don't want to spend a fortune, but haven't really got a clue where to
start, so could you guys point me in the right direction?
Cat-eye are in my experience reliable, and the low end of the range seem
perfectly adequate.
One thing - I know it's easy to look at the difference in price between
a Sterling House special and a reasonable road bike and think 'eek!'
But if you enjoy riding it more, you will ride more, and that will mean
that you get fitter and feel better. And £500 does not buy a lot of gym
or squash-club membership these days. Also, if you use your bike for
getting about, it doesn't take very much cycling to save £500 worth of
petrol - how much did you spend last time you filled the car up?
--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
Morning had broken, and I found when I looked that we had run out
of copper roove nails.