MUni frame performance?

there isn't too much difference

i think you're looking at the KH pro frame, which is a hand made frame
that came out before there were quality, mass produced, frames.

You're paying a premium for hand made frames (that's why hunter, dm,
gb4, etc. frames are more, they have slightly more innovative designs,
and are way cool, and if you live in california you're supporting the
local economy buying a hunter, but it's the hand-made-ness that costs
more)

The KH '05 Aluminum frame that comes on the '05 KHs is great because
it's strong but also lighter, and it's more mass-produced.

Darren Bedford, who i got my KH from, is going to sell the KH frames for
i think USD $125 on their own. This is a great price for a great
frame.
(www.bedfordunicycles.ca)

if you have the cash, i'd go for the aluminum frame if you're doing
trials or muni, if you're just doing freestyle, go w/ a quality,
low-crown frame, doesn't need to be too light or anything though for
freestyle

EDIT: just realized that you were talking about muni frames
in that case, you should REALLY try and get a KH if you want an awesome
frame, or if you have a lot of dough ($325 or so) get a Hunter!!!

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ColDawG - Your friendly, neighborhood MuniMan

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UniFied said:

*Not that I'm good enough to tell yet, but what is the performance
difference between a $50 chrome uni frame and a $450 blue painted uni
frame?*

Um, maybe you feel guilty about not riding when you spend $400 more?

I believe all you get for the money is a slightly lighter frame. I
doubt a few dozen ounces of metal is going to make a huge difference in
your riding, or mine, or anyone's for that matter. The day I absolutely
need to spend that much money on a frame, I'll eat my old Yuni. And I
won't even wash it first 🙂

I saw a lot of folks at CMW with super-mondo expensive anodized aluminum
frames. And I saw a lot of those folks suck wind as I flew by them on
the trails on my Made-In-China masterpiece of
singletrack-slaying-on-a-budget CroMoly steel.

I think people like the way the expensive frames look, and some of 'em
prolly like to brag that they're made of aircraft aluminum and are
precision milled and blah blah blah, but it'll sit in their garage most
of the time, and never be ridden very hard for fear of damaging the nice
paint job. It's like the same folks who buy an SUV and never take it
off the pavement.

Don't get sucked into the hype. Take your frame and have it powder
coated for $30-50, or if you wanna go super budget, give it a good
sanding and rattle-can it a few times. There, your ride's pimped.

That extra $400 you'll save can go towards another uni. Or plane
tickets to the next two muni weekend events of your choice. Or a _lot_
of beer and pretzels!

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maestro8 said:

* Or a _lot_ of beer and pretzels! *

whoo hoo...that must be why i need to sell the Hunter/Muniac hub combo.

--
jagur - Random Unicyclist

smoke me a kipper, i'll be back for breakfast.
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Early this morning Eyal and I rode Saddle Rock--the hardest trail in
Santa Barbara, not so much a single track as a 2 miles natural trials
gauntlet. Eyal got a flat straighaway and had to go with a back up
Muni, a real piece of [censored]. The only good feature was the Duro tire.
And on this Eyal laid down his best effort on Saddle, "flashing " many
of the hardest sections. I got a pimped out Lyterider with Profile hub
and Willis air seat and I could barely keep up.

It's the rider, not the rig . . .

JL

--
vivalargo - Santa Barbara Unicycle Club
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vivalargo said:

*It's the rider, not the rig . . .

JL *

Yes, but confidence plays a factor. I wouldn't want to do high exposure
trails on a set of lasco's, since I wouldn't be able to trust that they
wouldn't catastrophically break in a spot where I couldn't afford to
fall.

The above applies to just about every component on a uni EXCEPT the
frame, though, since nearly all the frames onthe market are quality
built or overbuilt. Just ride a Yuni frame until you break it.
Eventually you'll need a nicer frame since you'll need a bigger
seatpost, but you can still buy cheap in the 27.2 size. Or just make
friends with someone who's making a lot of nice frames but isn't ready
to start selling them. You may get a freebee.

--
gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

Nick's main man.

"I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
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There aren't a lot of significant performance differences between a
basic muni frame like a Yuni frame or Bedford frame and the more
expensive and fancy frames. A Yuni or Bedford frame makes for a
perfectly adequate muni.

The more expensive frames do offer some advantages though.

Machined bearing holders hold the bearings better. The stamped steel
bearing holders like on the Yuni can rock and move a little bit on the
bearing when riding hard. That causes frame flex and the wheel to move
around. Machined bearing holders also hold the bearing more evenly and
in a more perfect circle. That makes life easier on the bearing and can
lead to the bearing lasting longer and spinning better.

The more expensive frames can be had with larger diameter seatposts that
will fit high quality standard bicycle seatposts. A 27.2mm seatpost has
more surface area than a 22.2mm seatpost. More surface area means more
clamping area which means the seatpost can be held more securely. A
good frame with a good seatpost should never twist on you. I have never
had my seatpost twist or slip on my KH Pro muni. It is very nice to not
have to realign the seat after a UPD. Being able to use a high quality
seatpost like the Thomson is also a big plus. Being able to hold the
seatpost securely with a good single bolt seatpost clamp or a good quick
release clamp (Salsa) is also a big bonus. Some lesser frames require
that you use a two bolt BMX seatpost clamp to keep the seatpost secure.
I use a Salsa quick release on my muni and the seatpost has never
slipped.

The interior of the seat tube is also important. Some of the cheap
frames have a rough and uneven interior where the seatpost fits in.
Some have weld splatter and chrome splatter inside there. That makes it
difficult for the seatpost to fit properly and difficult for the
seatpost clamp to clamp well. A good frame will have a nice smooth
interior that is properly sized to hold the seatpost. That's why good
frames hold the seatpost better than cheap frames.

Some frames can be more of a knee kocker than other frames. Some frames
have sharp angles or edges up at the crown. Those sharp angles or edges
can hurt if your knee hits them. The new KH frames are narrow up at the
crown and the frame is angled so that it is more knee friendly.

There are differences between the basic inexpensive frames and the more
expensive frames and custom frames. The differences aren't huge but
they're there. For some people the differences are worth the extra
cost.

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beyond the function is the fact that the better frames are made in
countries other than Asia..Budda love Asia but the home-grown frames are
better.

there is somthing about riding a frame that was build by somone in your
own country.

has homeland been mentiond yet here?

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smoke me a kipper, i'll be back for breakfast.
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In my opinion the new KH frame is just about as perfect an all rounder
as you'll get.

Kris and I spent a lot of time talking about ideal frame shape for a
unicycle and came up with the rounded edge to the square frame and the
new hub.

It's amazingly like the first prototype crown with the addition only of
some tabs to help hold the foot when WW etc.

It's not as highly specialised as the Hunter or my own Blizzard frames
but as an all round toy it rocks.

--
JoeRowing - MUni Animal

Joe
gravitykarma.co.uk
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