iakobski said:I'm thinking of going fixed.
Eeh, great. Do tell us here of the project!
Quoted message said:I've experimented with not changing gear over my normal route, and I
reckon 42/14 would be about right, except when it's really windy, when
I think I'd need 42/15.
I used that method and then compromised a bit due to what was available.
I'm finding 47x18 a little tame now, so I might shrink the sprocket a
bit: I tried to allow for this by choosing a >16t sprocket.
You need to factor in wheel radius and crank length too, as described at
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gain.html .
You're limited in what you can do by the length of the dropout or your
track ends. I wonder if there's anything to be said for using two master
links in the chain to get a greater spread between the two sides?
Quoted message said:All the write-ups I've seen on the web that talk about flip-flop hubs
recommend fixed on one side and freewheel on the other. Is there any
particular reason for this?
If you give the free side a lower ratio, you get a useful low-effort
gear for getting home when you're knackered. That's it, basically.
Quoted message said:Can I put fixed on both sides and do away with the need for a rear
brake?
Believe so: it's the Road Vehicle Construction and Use regs, 1986 IIRC:
you need two independent braking systems, and there's an exception which
counts a pure fixed transmission as a braking system for the driven
wheel.
It's great for controling your movement in slowish traffic - you can
just sort of balance or hover at the right speed. Okay for helping you
come to a standstill too, but not so good for stopping from a fast speed.
It's a good idea to use a clipless pedal system if you're doing this
though.
Quoted message said:Also, lockrings. Necessary or not?
I'd say yes, especially on a pure fixed with no secondary rear brake.
--
Andrew Chadwick