General fitness, health and nutrition · Public discussion

Re: Sharpening knives

Started by Louis Cohen · · Last activity · 2 posts · 336 views

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General fitness, health and nutrition
Published
7 June 2005
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7 June 2005
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Louis Cohen
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  1. I use a 2-sided stone, medium and fine, from the hardware store. I
    soak it in water before and after using it each time. This is the
    lowest-cost, lowest tech, most traditional solution. I don't get a
    shaving edge, but, then, I don't shave in the kitchen. The knives do
    go through tomatoes very nicely, and seem to hold their edges pretty
    well.

    You may want to practice with some of your less-favorite knives first.

  2. Louis Cohen said:

    I use a 2-sided stone, medium and fine, from the hardware store. I
    soak it in water before and after using it each time. This is the
    lowest-cost, lowest tech, most traditional solution. I don't get a
    shaving edge, but, then, I don't shave in the kitchen. The knives do
    go through tomatoes very nicely, and seem to hold their edges pretty
    well.

    You may want to practice with some of your less-favorite knives first.

    Good idea to practice on ones klunkier knives.

    For a novice they may want to first paint the knife edge with machinist
    layout blue, will indicate where they've been and where they're going.

    I find that most often a few licks with a stone is all that's
    necessary, and water stones are clean and fast. But for a razor edge
    an oil stone can't be beat.

    Another technique is to tape a sheet of wet-dry polishing paper to a
    flat surface... polishing paper is available in various grits from any
    automotive parts store. Squirt with water or kerosene and use the same
    as a whet stone... the beauty is in how the paper never goes off flat
    (does not become concave/convex) and is cheap to replace with a fresh
    surface.

    For most kitchen chores a razor sharp edge is way over the top,
    especially for slicing veggies. But for serious meat cutting I like as
    sharp an edge as possible. Also, for those times a knife is badly
    dulled or knicked I would opt for filing, a bench vice with soft jaws
    to secure the blade and a few licks with a high speed machinists file
    will remove metal effortlessly, evenly, and without fear of
    overheating... use a smooth cut file and the "draw filing" technique
    (very precise). Then dress up the edge with the stone. For lawnmower
    blades I reverse the process; quickly remove mangled metal first with
    the bench grinder and then dress the edge with the file... no need for
    a honed edge for mowing grass, in fact the idea is to actually dull the
    edge with about a 1/32" flat... too sharp an edge will roll over...
    remember, a lawnmower blade tip smacks into grass at about the velocity
    of a 30 caliber bullet from a high powered rifle, to the lawnmower
    blade that blade of grass becomes a 2 x 4. I have two triple blade
    rotary mowers, sharpening the blades myself much more than pays for the
    cost of equipment... and by my method I can get about 50 sharpenings,
    the so-called professional in town gets maybe 6 sharpenings before I
    need to buy new blades. A decent 10" bench grinder runs about $300,
    but more than pays it's own way in one summer of mower blade
    sharpening.

    Little bit on draw filing:
    http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/Smalser_on_Files.htm

    Hint: When filing metal, especially draw filing, it's beneficial to rub
    the file with ordinary chalk, prevents teeth clogging.

    I can sharpen a knife better with only a file than most people can with
    the most expensive/sophisticated machinery... and so can you with a
    little practice.

    Sheldon

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