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Newbie questions

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UK and Europe
Published
29 May 2005
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31 May 2005
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  1. Hi All

    I'm just about to start cycling, and am currently having the bike I
    bought 3 years ago (and never used) serviced, ready for use.

    Just a couple of questions if I may.

    Security: I have two locks. One of those plastic-covered flexible cable
    thingies that you can wind through the wheels, and a D-lock. Are these
    likely to be sufficient for most situations?

    Mudguards: Silly question perhaps, but are they necessary? If they are,
    why do so many bikes (including mine) not have them?

    Cheers

    Will

  2. Quoted message said:

    Hi All

    I'm just about to start cycling, and am currently having the bike I
    bought 3 years ago (and never used) serviced, ready for use.

    Just a couple of questions if I may.

    Security: I have two locks. One of those plastic-covered flexible cable
    thingies that you can wind through the wheels, and a D-lock. Are these
    likely to be sufficient for most situations?

    Some D-locks are really good, other really bad. Whatever you use, try
    and fill the shackle so it's harder to get a car jack in there. Most
    cables are useless, but they deter people from taking the wheels and
    leaving the bike.

    Quoted message said:

    Mudguards: Silly question perhaps, but are they necessary? If they are,
    why do so many bikes (including mine) not have them?

    Fashion, weight, cost. They are essential if you use the bike as
    transport, but your feet may still get wet and there's always a little
    bit of "blowback" from the water that the front wheel throws forwards.
    Your bum and top half stay clean and dry though.

  3. Zog The Undeniable said:


    Some D-locks are really good, other really bad. Whatever you use, try
    and fill the shackle so it's harder to get a car jack in there. Most
    cables are useless, but they deter people from taking the wheels and
    leaving the bike.

    And don't rely on a D-lock with a cylindrical key - many have been found
    to be vulnerable to a bic biro tube in place of the key.

    --
    Tony

    "Don't argue the matter, the difficulties will argue for themselves"
    -W.S. Churchill

  4. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All

    I'm just about to start cycling, and am currently having the bike I
    bought 3 years ago (and never used) serviced, ready for use.

    Just a couple of questions if I may.

    Security: I have two locks. One of those plastic-covered flexible cable
    thingies that you can wind through the wheels, and a D-lock. Are these
    likely to be sufficient for most situations?

    Depends where you are located. Certainly where I am I see many a bike just
    parked & unlocked, or just a single D-lock or basic cable. I do, however,
    live in a relatively quiet place. If I lived in a city where theft was a
    real problem, I wouldn't be leaving a bike just lying about. Mind you, I do
    use a D-lock & two cable locks... If your bike is insured - and if you have
    a home contents policy, it probably is - check with your insurers as to what
    they deem to be an acceptable lock. For example, I have to use a D-lock (of
    unspecified type) and have the bike locked to "an immoveable object".

    Quoted message said:

    Mudguards: Silly question perhaps, but are they necessary? If they are,
    why do so many bikes (including mine) not have them?

    It's a Brit thing for bikes to come without mudguards, I think. My everyday
    bike has mudguards and they are *essential* in British winters and wet
    weather IMO. They do keep a lot of crud from reaching you. My lighter race
    bike doesn't have mudguards, but I only use that bike in good weather (such
    as this morning). My recumbent has mudguards, but I'm removing these for the
    summer. My hybrid has mudguards too. If you don't have mudguards and cycle
    in the wet, you'll soon find out why they are essential from the wet
    backside you get and the dirty stain of road crud up your nether regions
    which can render you looking as if you have a serious case of dysentry ;-)

    Cheers, helen s

    Quoted message said:

    Cheers

    Will

  5. wafflycat said:

    Mind you, I do use a D-lock & two cable locks

    Another (better?) alternative to a D-lock and cable lock is a D-lock and
    some locking wheel skewers. The Pitlock and Kryponite ones are most
    foolproof, but even the dirt-cheap Tektro "pentagon key" version will
    foil the average chav with an allen key. Provided they don't become too
    popular...

  6. Thanks for the replies, guys.

    Will

  7. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All

    I'm just about to start cycling, and am currently having the bike I
    bought 3 years ago (and never used) serviced, ready for use.

    Just a couple of questions if I may.

    Security: I have two locks. One of those plastic-covered flexible cable
    thingies that you can wind through the wheels, and a D-lock. Are these
    likely to be sufficient for most situations?

    I'd say so. All I've ever used in 15 years is a D lock. Some tips.
    Don't lock it out of the way. This can be a natural instinct to hide it, but
    lock it where it can be seen by lots of people.
    If you have quick release wheels onbvioulsy you need to make sure they are
    secured as well.
    I usually lock my bike to railings or a cycle stand through what I think are
    called the seat stays. (The two tubes going down from the seat to the rear
    wheel.) In particular don't just lock it through the spokes on the rear
    wheel. It's quite easy to detach the rear wheel and walk off with the rest
    of the bike.

    Quoted message said:

    Mudguards: Silly question perhaps, but are they necessary? If they are,
    why do so many bikes (including mine) not have them?

    Necessary. Essential. Vital. Critical. Riding without mudguards in wet
    weather/on wet roads is very, very unpleasant and uncomfortable. You get off
    the bike looking and feeling like you've had industrial strength diahorrea.
    Appalling. And get the mudguards that wrap right round the back to 9 o'clock
    too. The sort of thing at the top of this page
    http://www.safaribikes.com/mud.htm Mudguards were the best money I ever
    spent on my bike.

    Some other advice I got when I started riding was: Beware traffic turnign
    left. Most people are aware of the hazards of turning right across a lane of
    traffic but more than once I've been tempted to squeeze throguh a gap when a
    vehicle is turnign left and as the gap disappears due to the shape of the
    bus/lorry going round the corner I realise the vioce like Obi Wan Kenobi in
    my head saying - Stay back. Stay back. has saved me.

    Also I did some CBT motorbike training and rode a motobike for a year or so.
    I am a lot more road aware now. Look around you. Mirror. Signal. Manoeuvre.
    This goes for push bikes too. If you are a driver you might well already be
    better at this than the average cyclist

    Roundabouts. Stick up for yourslef. You need to be seen. I used to have real
    problems when I started because I treated roundabout lanes like other lanes
    and it was very dangerous. Now I move more to the centre saying that this is
    my lane whil eI'm on here. Others may have a different view on this. I'm not
    saying be aggressive. I'm just saying you need to be seen.

    That said really really really don't be put off. I was on some kind of
    course a few years ago and I once had to talk about the best moments of my
    life, this got me thinking...and I remembered it was a friend put together
    my first bike for me from spare parts he had lying around and gave it to me
    for free, and I have to say given all the freedom and enjoyment I have got
    from cycling since, that moment changed my life.

    cheers

    dd

  8. Nice one, DD!

  9. DDEckerslyke said:

    In particular don't just lock it through the spokes on the rear
    wheel. It's quite easy to detach the rear wheel and walk off with the rest
    of the bike.

    Sheldon Brown actually recommends just locking the rear rim to an
    immovable object. Provided you lock the rim at a point inside the rear
    triangle, it's impossible to get the wheel out of the frame with the
    lock attached, so the bike is secure. Hacksaw the rim? Not easily -
    it's under a massive compressive stress. An angle grinder would do the
    job, but then you might as well do the lock instead - rear wheels are
    expensive components.

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