I've managed to badly deform one of the dropouts on the old Malvern Star that I converted to a fixie. It occurs to me that cutting off the offending portions and welding in more appropriate rearwards facing replacements, given that the $150+ quoted cost for fitting track ends is somewhat overcapitalising on a $30 frame. Any thoughts on the appropriate steel to use and where to acquire a suitably sized piece? The welder available to me is a gasless MIG. Yes I know that's an oxymoron. No welding jokes about the word "oxymoron", please. To get full penetration on the weld, I was simply going to bevel the piece slightly, crank the voltage and weld from both sides. I'm open to suggestions from those who've done such things before.
*dons welding mask and makes Darth Vader breathing noises*
I've managed to badly deform one of the dropouts on the old Malvern Star that I converted to a fixie. It occurs to me that cutting off the offending portions and welding in more appropriate rearwards facing replacements, given that the $150+ quoted cost for fitting track ends is somewhat overcapitalising on a $30 frame. Any thoughts on the appropriate steel to use and where to acquire a suitably sized piece? The welder available to me is a gasless MIG. Yes I know that's an oxymoron. No welding jokes about the word "oxymoron", please. To get full penetration on the weld, I was simply going to bevel the piece slightly, crank the voltage and weld from both sides. I'm open to suggestions from those who've done such things before.
*dons welding mask and makes Darth Vader breathing noises*
*zap, zzzzzzzzap*
NOOOOOOOOO!!!!
Would it not be cheaper and easier to simply find another frame in better condition?
I know that goes against the DIY creed, but sometimes you just gotta cut and run.
"Resound" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:[email hidden]:
Quoted message said:
I've managed to badly deform one of the dropouts on the old Malvern Star that I converted to a fixie. It occurs to me that cutting off the offending portions and welding in more appropriate rearwards facing replacements, given that the $150+ quoted cost for fitting track ends is somewhat overcapitalising on a $30 frame.
If you have ever seen anybody who has done a face plant, I think that you would consider $150 cheap insurance. A breakage because of a "cooked" fork would be bad news.
"Peter Gordon" <petergo@_deleteme_.netspace.net.au> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Resound" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:[email hidden]:
Quoted message said:
I've managed to badly deform one of the dropouts on the old Malvern Star that I converted to a fixie. It occurs to me that cutting off the offending portions and welding in more appropriate rearwards facing replacements, given that the $150+ quoted cost for fitting track ends is somewhat overcapitalising on a $30 frame.
If you have ever seen anybody who has done a face plant, I think that you would consider $150 cheap insurance. A breakage because of a "cooked" fork would be bad news.
Ah, I wouldn't touch the fronts, that's crazy business; but if a rear dropout breaks and the wheel gets wobbly/locks, I can cope.
"BrettS" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Resound said:
I've managed to badly deform one of the dropouts on the old Malvern Star that I converted to a fixie. It occurs to me that cutting off the offending portions and welding in more appropriate rearwards facing replacements, given that the $150+ quoted cost for fitting track ends is somewhat overcapitalising on a $30 frame. Any thoughts on the appropriate steel to use and where to acquire a suitably sized piece? The welder available to me is a gasless MIG. Yes I know that's an oxymoron. No welding jokes about the word "oxymoron", please. To get full penetration on the weld, I was simply going to bevel the piece slightly, crank the voltage and weld from both sides. I'm open to suggestions from those who've done such things before.
*dons welding mask and makes Darth Vader breathing noises*
*zap, zzzzzzzzap*
NOOOOOOOOO!!!!
Would it not be cheaper and easier to simply find another frame in better condition?
I know that goes against the DIY creed, but sometimes you just gotta cut and run.
-- BrettS
I did think that, but there doesn't seem to be anything between utter [censored] and $200. I'm not super flush with cash and I'd like rearwards facing dropouts (yes, I know track ends aren't dropouts, but "forks" is too confusing) so I can more easily regulate the chain tension with a BMX style axle tug. Of course, if you know where I can get a cheapish small track frame, I'm all ears 🙂
Most commercial dropouts are made from 1010 or 1020 sheet. 3/16" or 1/4" is good. Alternatively you could cut them from 316 stainless sheet, but I dunno how that would go with MIG.
Brass brazing would probably be a lot easier than MIG, but if you've got the tool...
"suzyj" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Most commercial dropouts are made from 1010 or 1020 sheet. 3/16" or 1/4" is good. Alternatively you could cut them from 316 stainless sheet, but I dunno how that would go with MIG.
Brass brazing would probably be a lot easier than MIG, but if you've got the tool...
Best of luck,
Suzy
-- suzyj
Coolies...the terms 1010 and 1020 got me going. I worked out what I needed and found a couple of steel places. Looks like it'll set me back more in transport than materials. No, I am NOT going to rely on a bike that I plan to cut and weld for transport :P
I've managed to badly deform one of the dropouts ..It occurs to me that cutting off the offending portions and welding in more appropriate rearwards facing replacements,
With gasless MIG I assume you have one that uses a flux-cored wire.
While I haven't done this exact procedure I've done a fair amount of odd wedling jobs, and bevelling all edges would let you make a full penetration seam even with a small welder. None of the ones I've made like that has failed so far. I wouldn't worry too much about the quality of the steel as long as you're able to retain enough of the old dropouts to use as a base to weld against. That part of the bike isn't that badly stressed, so you should be able to get away with ordinary construction steel. You can always make the piece you insert a little bigger than actually needed to make it stronger.
