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double or triple

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UK and Europe
Published
14 April 2005
Last activity
17 April 2005
Original author
Chris Armstrong
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13
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  1. I bought a road bike a couple of years ago and bought one with two front chainrings. This was a bit of a mistake as not being very fit, I really struggle to get up some hills that I manage relatively easily on my mtb. I have been offered a swap for a cyclocross bike - which sounds fun- but this also has two front chainrings. Does anyone know if I am just swapping like for like, or will I find the cyclocross bike generally a bit more low geared than than the roadbike. I know the science all depends on how many teeth there are but I am just wondering if there is a general rule of thumb.
    My other question is that I have never really got to grips with clipless pedals, is this is a must for cyclocross?
    Any advice appreciated.
    Cheers Chris

  2. in message <[email hidden]>,
    Chris Armstrong

    (') said:

    I bought a road bike a couple of years ago and bought one with two
    front chainrings. This was a bit of a mistake as not being very fit, I
    really struggle to get up some hills that I manage relatively easily
    on my mtb. I have been offered a swap for a cyclocross bike - which
    sounds fun- but this also has two front chainrings. Does anyone know
    if I am just swapping like for like, or will I find the cyclocross
    bike generally a bit more low geared than than the roadbike. I know
    the science all depends on how many teeth there are but I am just
    wodering if there is a general rule of thumb.
    Any advice appreciated.

    It's not the number, it's the size. Or, to put it differently, don't
    count the rings, count the teeth. If you use a 'compact double'
    chainset, your smaller ring is going to be the same size as the granny
    ring on a 'road triple' chainset. Which means, driving the same
    cassette, you will have the same bottom gear. You will have a lower top
    gear, of course, but that may not matter so much to you.

    You can easily swap the chainset either of your new crosser or your old
    road bike to a triple, if that's what you want to do; or you can change
    individual rings on your existing chainset, although if the jump from
    the smaller to the bigger ring is too great your front deraileur
    mechanism will struggle, and you may need a longer cage on your rear
    deraileur.

    Alternatively you can change the cassette - the cluster of cogs on your
    back wheel - to one with larger cogs, which will equally lower your
    bottom gear. In this case you will need a longer cage rear deraileur.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    Hobbit ringleader gives Sauron One in the Eye.

  3. Hi

    Quoted message said:

    in message <[email hidden]>,
    is there a general rule of thumb.[?]

    Quoted message said:

    Any advice appreciated.

    Yes, I struggle too. I use a triple on all my road bikes. And
    even some road pros like Roberto Heras and David Millar have used
    triples in major stage races with long steep climbs. On the Angrilu climb
    of a Vuelta stage I believe Heras used a triple with a 30 tooth inner ring
    on the front and a 26 tooth big cog on the back.

    If you fit a triple chainset you will need to change the bottom bracket
    and both the front and rear derailleurs. If you are using Shimano STI
    shifting/brake levers you will have to change the left hand lever for a
    triple compatible. If you are using Campag ergo shifting/brake levers then
    you don't need to change the left lever as they are both triple and double
    compatible.

    Here's what I use:

    On my winter training bike (which I ride more than any other bike) I have
    the following set up: Sugino fuse 500 triple c/set 50 x 36 x 28 and 13-28
    9 speed Campag cassette.

    Pinarello racing bike: Campag Racing T c/set 52 x 42 x 30 and 13-26 9
    speed Campag cassette. (I'm going to swap the 42 c/ring for a 39 and maybe
    the 13-26 for a 13-28).

    My heavy touring bike uses a typical MTB set up.

    HTH

    Bin

  4. Simon Brooke <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : It's not the number, it's the size. Or, to put it differently, don't
    : count the rings, count the teeth. If you use a 'compact double'
    : chainset, your smaller ring is going to be the same size as the granny
    : ring on a 'road triple' chainset.

    A little bigger actually. A 110 PCD chainset (ie a "compact" one) can
    take a 34 tooth inner ring as the smallest. Road tripes tend to have
    a 32 or a 30 as the smallest ring from stock and you can fit a 28.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
    Don't get me wrong, perl is an OK operating system, but it lacks a
    lightweight scripting language -- Walter Dnes

  5. Chris Armstrong <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : mtb. I have been offered a swap for a cyclocross bike - which sounds
    : fun- but this also has two front chainrings. Does anyone know if I am
    : just swapping like for like, or will I find the cyclocross bike
    : generally a bit more low geared than than the roadbike.

    You'll probably find the 'cross bike has a smaller top gear and may
    or may not have a smaller bottom gear depending on how it's been setup.

    36/48 is common for cross, which would give lower gears, but some run
    38/48 I think, which won't be noticably lower (at least at the front)

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
    Don't get me wrong, perl is an OK operating system, but it lacks a
    lightweight scripting language -- Walter Dnes

  6. Arthur Clune said:
    Simon Brooke said:

    It's not the number, it's the size. Or, to put it differently, don't
    count the rings, count the teeth. If you use a 'compact double'
    chainset, your smaller ring is going to be the same size as the
    granny ring on a 'road triple' chainset.

    A little bigger actually. A 110 PCD chainset (ie a "compact" one) can
    take a 34 tooth inner ring as the smallest. Road tripes tend to have
    a 32 or a 30 as the smallest ring from stock and you can fit a 28.

    s/28/24/

    --
    Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/> I
    thought I saw his name on a jar of marmalade the other day, but
    when I looked more closely, I saw it read 'thick cut'.

  7. I have put a stronglight impact double 46/36 on my audax bike with 11
    to 34 cassette .Since I have a long arm rear changer already there was
    no need to change anything else.I think you will find this chainset
    with 48/34 also, or pick your own rings.
    Mine was from Settle.
    TerryJ

  8. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have put a stronglight impact double 46/36 on my audax bike with 11
    to 34 cassette .Since I have a long arm rear changer already there was
    no need to change anything else.I think you will find this chainset
    with 48/34 also, or pick your own rings.
    Mine was from Settle.

    I was going to suggest the OP fit an 11-34 and mtb rear mech., not only a
    longer cage but also a longer body to keep the top jockey wheel off the
    larger cogs.
    That's what I do with a 39-53 chainset and it suits me although (obviously)
    there are bigger gaps between gears.

    Pete

  9. Peter B <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : I was going to suggest the OP fit an 11-34 and mtb rear mech., not only a
    : longer cage but also a longer body to keep the top jockey wheel off the
    : larger cogs.

    Each to their own, but I *hate* cassettes like that. They work fine offroad
    where you can't be too subtle in your gear choice anyway, but ever there
    I'd find 11-28 preferable.

    On road, it'd drive me nuts.

    --
    Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
    Don't get me wrong, perl is an OK operating system, but it lacks a
    lightweight scripting language -- Walter Dnes

  10. Quoted message said:

    Each to their own, but I *hate* cassettes like that. They work fine offroad
    where you can't be too subtle in your gear choice anyway, but ever there
    I'd find 11-28 preferable.


    road, it'd drive me nuts.

    But it depends where you ride.In most of lincolnshire you dont need
    low gears and close ratios are more comfortable, but in the pennines
    you are either going up or down, and need a wide variety.And it seems
    the poster wants low gears, and I was just showing that you do not
    necessarily have to go for a triple.
    Indeed I find my set up of 2x7 11 to 34 is very good.If I make a
    change it might be to revert to DT changers, which worked well with
    less fuss than my new sti levers.
    TerryJ

  11. "Arthur Clune" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Peter B <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : I was going to suggest the OP fit an 11-34 and mtb rear mech., not only


    a

    Quoted message said:

    : longer cage but also a longer body to keep the top jockey wheel off the
    : larger cogs.

    Each to their own, but I *hate* cassettes like that. They work fine


    offroad

    Quoted message said:

    where you can't be too subtle in your gear choice anyway, but ever there
    I'd find 11-28 preferable.

    On road, it'd drive me nuts.

    Yep, I use an 11-25 usually. It gets me up any hill I'm likely to encounter
    in Leicestershire/Rutland/Warwicks/Northants but would leave me walking up
    hills in the Peak District so the cheap answer is to borrow the cassette and
    mech from my mtb for those occasional trips.
    In hindsight maybe I should have bought a bike with a triple even though
    the lower gears would have been redundant most of the time (which is why I'm
    loathe to shell out to retrofit a triple).

    Pete

  12. in message <[email hidden]>, Peter B

    (') said:


    "Arthur Clune" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Each to their own, but I *hate* cassettes like that. They work fine


    offroad

    Quoted message said:

    where you can't be too subtle in your gear choice anyway, but ever
    there I'd find 11-28 preferable.

    On road, it'd drive me nuts.

    Yep, I use an 11-25 usually. It gets me up any hill I'm likely to
    encounter in Leicestershire/Rutland/Warwicks/Northants but would leave
    me walking up hills in the Peak District so the cheap answer is to
    borrow the cassette and mech from my mtb for those occasional trips.
    In hindsight maybe I should have bought a bike with a triple even
    though the lower gears would have been redundant most of the time
    (which is why I'm loathe to shell out to retrofit a triple).

    My solution has been to go for a 13-26 cassette, but a medium cage
    deraileur that will accommodate up to 13-29. So far 53/39 front and
    13-26 rear has been fine for every hill I've tried it on (including
    more than half way up the highest rated climb in Britain) but if I need
    something lower it's easy to change.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; It appears that /dev/null is a conforming XSL processor.

  13. I said:

    Yep, I use an 11-25 usually.

    Actually I think it's 12-25, not that it has any bearing on climbing but it
    does bring the ratios closer.

    Quoted message said:

    It gets me up any hill I'm likely to
    encounter in Leicestershire/Rutland/Warwicks/Northants

    The above is with a 39-53 up front and the hills are the same ones I used to
    climb successfully with a 7 speed 13-23 and 42-53 up front. Not sure if it's
    part of the ageing process or the fact that the more lower gears there are
    to hand the more lower gears will be used!

    Simon replied:

    Quoted message said:

    My solution has been to go for a 13-26 cassette, but a medium cage
    deraileur that will accommodate up to 13-29.

    Seems sensible.

    Pete

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