TOURING RACK

Quoted message said:

Touring rack

The addition of plywood to the touring or commuting rack takes a new
twist with the use of a combination backpack/rolling luggage bag with
extendable handle.

The ply sides applied to the aluminum rack now covered with a 24"
long ply and 3 chili bean can widths wide and fastened to the dropout
eyebolts with spacer nuts and 6mm bolts reputed to be a grade 8 is
lightened with four wide holes that take shock cord hooks. The broken
aluminum rack seat stay support is replaced with a metal angle iron
from ply top to seat stay cross member.

I had a complaint on ply for racks-guy's rack was warping. Construction
ply needs drying 2-3 weeks before reliably taking paint. Nailing the
cut sections flat onto a frame might help. or use recycled ply.

One supports the roller pack's solid bottom or more shock cords with
bottom hooks facing down, cords then strung over the ply top and hooked
into the other side's holes.

The top plastic form that holds the extendable handles' top guides
has room for a loop of shock cord that holds the bag up at its top with
the cord traveling over the ply top to the other side's lightning
holes.

The trick is the plastic tops metal extendable handle guides now rest
their edges on the ply top and are secured there by the shock cords.

While not wind efficient as a real cycle bag the mid grade
"ballistic" polyester cloth luggage roller/pack is effective for
local or short trip touring. You need a map directory to locate the
stuff in multiple pockets that are double zipper accessible from the
side when mounted.

If in Wal-Mart, examine the wall bags-the wal-cloth; that's embossed
"ballistic" cloth of unknown chemistry and is not durable under
load. The bags I have come from the flea market with broken handles
then cut off.

The stock bag is easily reinforced with baseball stitching on the
bottom seams using a curved needle and upholstery thread, the bottom is
reinforce able with another nylon-from the thrift's unusable bag
collection- laid into the bottom and sewed to the side-use a light
cardboard template cut like a cereal or cardboard box unfolded then
folded.

The hard plastic bottom needs cushioning on the front and probably the
side edges preventing the edge from cutting into the fabric; a plastic
bag shoved in there or better an aquarium or milking hose cut, cut
inserted on bottom's edge and maybe glued on with goop.

Any chance of seeing a photo?

of what? we have a good one of the prince mounted on ringo
or is that ringo monted on the prince???

Quoted message said:

of what? we have a good one of the prince mounted on ringo
or is that ringo monted on the prince???

Anything really. One of the TOURING RACK would do.

no resources to photo.
the project is one of the boot cleaner via the pop mechanic's cartoons
blow up diagrams-shelf braket tech. or see strap hangers at homedepot.

chech the top clip-replace with sheet metal hole sheet, goop, clamp
tight, cure, bolt thru with 8's or 10's

run a metal strip from handle co9lumn to handle column for
reinforcement and glue the columns to the bottom then bolt with 6's

More rack-
If you buy one from a thrift, position on the bike, and draw and
gestate the plyrack-it's then yours not mine: the on hand
visualization will turn your corner

The top clip can be finessed- fold the metal over re-rod for a shock
cord holder
Drill small holes thru both sides at one time
Separate and insert thin ply or plastic-thin to avoid misaligning the
fabrication and then punch holes lightly with a finish nail set-the
holes set out to the rear to grab cloth
Also holes in the setup relieve pressure as the goop gets clamped down
Goop comes out, the metal seats, and the goop gets rivet head spread on
the outside.
Using goop here requires maybe two weeks set in a warm dry atmosphere
before stressing.

even more rack-
the main deck extends by its lonely another foot areas of the sides
end.
thesides are truncated cones with curvedside and four lightning holes
cut in-looks lika spanish modernist death's head haloween mask.
the ply gets drilled all over to acceot the shock cord hook end
the sides on the ply rack rise above the main deck 2" this holds the
deck bag and allows for shelf bracketing both atop and below. i have a
1 1/14" x in there buts that's more work slanting the outside edge to
place the sides directly down to the dropout eye mounts. the ply needs
some direction or it'll bend and warp inward or outward
two notches per side are cut in to the rise flush with the main deck.
this for hanging really heavy bags directly down or up to transverse
struts
for an inexplicable reason the rolling bagpack's handle columns fit
exactly into these notches and at op the shockcord sueezed into the
outside notche hole.
the metal clip has more to offer with another l angle bolted/epoxied on
as this clip can rest on or be bolted to the main deck-
then off cortse another column to column sheet plate then fastened-wing
nuts right?-to the side poly.
now that's not Ti fersure but it's mite cheeper.
one on back, one roller, down to the munchy aisle

the magic potion for plywood racks-home depot floor latex.
stuff comes in qts in basic brown then they add tint on site. go with
the tint to match your topcoat. now you don't really need a topcoat but
its deluxe. topped with rusto white, the rusto resists chain lubes
protecting the latex while the latex seals water out.
GREAT ZOLL! its good paint.

More rack

One element missing from factory racks is triangulation-keeps the rack
from wagging goin down those steep descents.
You know like a strap from seat stay to rack side further back toward
the rear.

The ply rack concept is best worked out with packing crate cardboard
and strapping tape-the kind comes in a red carrier and has fibers
running longitudinally down then tape's length. Great stuff.

Using the cardboard, one can fabricate a complete mockup(s) directly to
the bike with fender washers and bolts/nuts.

One can then arrive at a design that allows heel movement, eye
movement, and room for your packs if that's important.

Different styles-organic, flowing, angular, advanced psychotic... can
be tried and actually ridden before committing yourself.

Then try using the cardboard for templates or pre templates after
crashing or leaving in the rain.

Quoted message said:

Different styles-organic, flowing, angular, advanced psychotic... can
be tried and actually ridden before committing yourself.

Don't do it! Billy B. was voluntary, look what happend to him!

More rack

One element missing from factory racks is triangulation-keeps the rack
from wagging goin down those steep descents.
You know like a strap from seat stay to rack side further back toward
the rear.

The ply rack concept is best worked out with packing crate cardboard
and strapping tape-the kind comes in a red carrier and has fibers
running longitudinally down then tape's length. Great stuff.

Using the cardboard, one can fabricate a complete mockup(s) directly to
the bike with fender washers and bolts/nuts.

One can then arrive at a design that allows heel movement, eye
movement, and room for your packs if that's important.

Different styles-organic, flowing, angular, advanced psychotic... can
be tried and actually ridden before committing yourself.

Then try using the cardboard for templates or pre templates after
crashing or leaving in the rain.