(Pete Cresswell) said:Per Dave:
Quoted message said:My question is whether I should get a mountain bike that will allow me
to replicate this position. I'm concerned that I'll be up too high and
too forward for steep climbs and descents. OTOH, I'm thinking that if
I don't use the same position, I'll have fit issues (I had a lot of
trouble with back pain until I got my road postion dialed in last
season).
Maybe somebody who knows more than I do can respond to these assertions:
- I would say that with an MTB, there is no single optimal position. There may
be an optimal position for climbing, another one for steep descents, and another
one for the flats... but no one position is appropriate for all uses.
I couldn't agree more. On a road bike, there tends to be 1.00
"correct positions". On a MTB it's all a matter of finding the right
compromise for the riding you do.
Quoted message said:- Given the above, it made sense to me to use riser bars with bar ends. The
risers let me tune the cockpit length by canting them fore-aft (and fiddling the
spacers to restore the desired height once I got the length).
The only problem with that approach is that it alters the effective
position of the grip relative to the steering axis. Not a big deal
through some of the range, but as you approach a very long or short
"virtual stem position", the handling might get a bit odd.
Quoted message said:- The bar ends give me various aero-ish options because they are mounted facing
forward and slightly downwards.
Down? Eeek. I like mine slightly up so I don't bend my wrists when
climbing out of the saddle. However, when I set up a MTB to do a road
time trial (don't ask...) I used long, curvy bar ends pointed down.
As for relative stem / cockpit length - I've found that a "cockpit
length" (effective top tube length plus stem horizontal length) of
1-2cm longer than a road bike position is a good starting point for
typical "all-round riding". If you're going to be doing a lot of very
technical riding, you'll want to shorten the cockpit - if you're doing
asphalt and fire roads, a little longer cockpit will work better.
The height of the bars also depends on your flexibility, the riding
you'll be doing and the geometry of your bike. I tend to like a lower
position on my MTB than many, so risers wouldn't work for me. Others
like their bars well above the saddle, especially those who are
featured in those "most suicidal home video" shows... ;-)
Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame