Does such a thing exist? This would be an ideal solution for a rear canti brake, akin to the fork-mounted cable hanger now found on some cross bikes (which would almost work, but the curvature of the attachment would be in the wrong orientation).
Does such a thing exist? This would be an ideal solution for a rear canti brake, akin to the fork-mounted cable hanger now found on some cross bikes (which would almost work, but the curvature of the attachment would be in the wrong orientation).
Does such a thing exist? This would be an ideal solution for a rear canti brake, akin to the fork-mounted cable hanger now found on some cross bikes (which would almost work, but the curvature of the attachment would be in the wrong orientation).
The problem with that particular one is that it could rotate to the side, releasing the tension on the brake cable and causing brake failure. This isn't possible with a binder-bolt mounted stop.
Take a look at any bike from the '70's or '80's with centerpull brakes. You'll find that binder bolt mounted stops are very common.
Does such a thing exist? This would be an ideal solution for a rear canti brake, akin to the fork-mounted cable hanger now found on some cross bikes (which would almost work, but the curvature of the attachment would be in the wrong orientation).
You could use a Cross front model. Radius the inside edge in the other plane for the bridge's smaller diameter. Use a graded or allen bolt.
And then give the lever a good hard pull a couple of times with all your might before you ride. Some seamed shoddy seatstay bridges would likely commit suicide with that much force and leverage.
What bike? I'm thinking of Motobecane Nomade/Super Mirage/GrandTour bridges in particular and their ilk in general. I've repaired a lot of those. Any bike with a Pletscher plate, no problem.
-- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Does such a thing exist? This would be an ideal solution for a rear canti brake, akin to the fork-mounted cable hanger now found on some cross bikes (which would almost work, but the curvature of the attachment would be in the wrong orientation).
You make a good point. Yes, the OP may indeed just aesthetically prefer a seatstay bridge mounted hanger, but some new bikes can't readily accept the seatbolt mounted hangers.
-- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Does such a thing exist? This would be an ideal solution for a rear canti brake, akin to the fork-mounted cable hanger now found on some cross bikes (which would almost work, but the curvature of the attachment would be in the wrong orientation).
You could use a Cross front model. Radius the inside edge in the other plane for the bridge's smaller diameter. Use a graded or allen bolt.
And then give the lever a good hard pull a couple of times with all your might before you ride. Some seamed shoddy seatstay bridges would likely commit suicide with that much force and leverage.
What bike? I'm thinking of Motobecane Nomade/Super Mirage/GrandTour bridges in particular and their ilk in general. I've repaired a lot of those. Any bike with a Pletscher plate, no problem.
Its a Raleigh R300 touring frame - beefy aluminum bridge with a threaded boss. So you're condident that there's enough metal on that cross-front hanger to radius it with a rat-tail file or a dremel?
I actually tried a binder bolt mounted hanger but the one I have is too thick to fit within the binder. I have a mini-V on there now, but the pad travel is too small, and the noodle gets in the way of the rack strut.
Does such a thing exist? This would be an ideal solution for a rear canti brake, akin to the fork-mounted cable hanger now found on some cross bikes (which would almost work, but the curvature of the attachment would be in the wrong orientation).
Quoted message said:
A Muzi said:
You could use a Cross front model. Radius the inside edge in the other plane for the bridge's smaller diameter. Use a graded or allen bolt. And then give the lever a good hard pull a couple of times with all your might before you ride. Some seamed shoddy seatstay bridges would likely commit suicide with that much force and leverage. What bike? I'm thinking of Motobecane Nomade/Super Mirage/GrandTour bridges in particular and their ilk in general. I've repaired a lot of those. Any bike with a Pletscher plate, no problem.
Kyle.B.H. said:
Its a Raleigh R300 touring frame - beefy aluminum bridge with a threaded boss. So you're condident that there's enough metal on that cross-front hanger to radius it with a rat-tail file or a dremel? I actually tried a binder bolt mounted hanger but the one I have is too thick to fit within the binder. I have a mini-V on there now, but the pad travel is too small, and the noodle gets in the way of the rack strut.
A common complaint of Mini-V brakes. Try them with mudguards for a frustrating experience!
I know that frame and yes I would mount a front hanger radiused to the shape of the bridge. Use a hardened bolt all the way through the bridge with a seating pad on the back side and a nylock nut. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971