Rear Mech Adjustment woes..

Philthy said:

Hiya, I've just re indexed & adjusted my rear mech. Anyway I'm still having the same problem as
I was b4 I started working on it. Changing is smooth & clean as a whistle while the bike is on
the work stand, but as soon as I ride it I'm having trouble. 1 click up on the shifter & up 2 on
the cassette 4-5 revolutions on the cranks & it's down 1 to where it should be. Got me stumped
this one,I should add that I'm reletively new to doing my own maintainence. 1st time I did this
4 months ago using the same steps (Haynes manual)was no bother. Any ideas you clever people..
TIA Phil

As with all things mechanical it's far easier to spot when physically examined. But, two things
spring to mind: The hanger the mech bolts to is out of alignment. It's easy to bend it with a bit of
an impact and not notice until the shifting goes screwy. You can take the mech of a sight down the
frame to see if it's out in any plane. If it is then either get the LBS to sort it with the correct
tool. Or you can bend it back yourself. (Note some frames have replaceable hangers as the frame
material, aluminium/carbon etc, does not bend back the way steel does in which case you can just
order another) Wear on the drivetrain, components that have badly worn or not worn "together" can
produce hard to index. But my money is on the first explanation.

Philthy deftly scribbled:

Quoted message said:

Hiya, I've just re indexed & adjusted my rear mech. Anyway I'm still having the same problem as
I was b4 I started working on it. Changing is smooth & clean as a whistle while the bike is on
the work stand, but as soon as I ride it I'm having trouble. 1 click up on the shifter & up 2 on
the cassette 4-5 revolutions on the cranks & it's down 1 to where it should be. Got me stumped
this one,I should add that I'm reletively new to doing my own maintainence. 1st time I did this
4 months ago using the same steps (Haynes manual)was no bother. Any ideas you clever people..
TIA Phil

Agree with 'Spiky' about the gear hanger. Another possibility may be a frayed or badly kinked cable.

I had a similar problem once with a kinked cable where the kink was _exactly_ on the entry / exit to
an outer cable, at some change ups it wouldn't go, but when it did it went too far, then dropped
back and vice-versa .. 😉 A new inner cable cured it ..

--
Digweed

Philthy said:

Hiya, I've just re indexed & adjusted my rear mech. Anyway I'm still having the same problem as I
was b4 I started working on it. Changing is smooth & clean as a whistle while the bike is on the
work stand, but as soon as I ride it I'm having trouble. 1 click up on the shifter & up 2 on the
cassette 4-5 revolutions on the cranks & it's down 1 to where it should be. Got me stumped this
one,I should add that I'm reletively new to doing my own maintainence. 1st time I did this 4
months ago using the same steps (Haynes manual)was no bother.

In addition to advice already given, make sure cable is taut in top gear, and persevere some more
with cable adjustment. Try adjusting whilst riding if you have conveniently placed barrel adjuster -
or alternatively, keep stopping to make small adjustments.

~PB

"Philthy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hiya, I've just re indexed & adjusted my rear mech. Anyway I'm still having the same problem as
I was b4 I started working on it. Changing is smooth & clean as a whistle while the bike is on
the work

stand,

Quoted message said:

but as soon as I ride it I'm having trouble. 1 click up on the shifter &

up

Quoted message said:

2 on the cassette 4-5 revolutions on the cranks & it's down 1 to where it should be. Got me
stumped this one,I should add that I'm reletively new to doing my own maintainence. 1st time I did
this 4 months ago using the same steps (Haynes manual)was no bother. Any ideas you clever people..
TIA Phil

A loose freehub can also cause this type of problem - take the wheel off and check whether there you
can move the cassette backwards and forwards along the line of the axle. If there is any play you
will need to take the cassette off and tighten the freehub - Shimano needs a 10mm allen key IIRC.

John

Thanks everyone, I'll give the suggestions a try Regards Phil