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Broken hub, replacement options?

Started by saki · · Last activity · 10 posts · 343 views

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Road Cycling
Published
19 January 2005
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1 March 2005
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saki
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  1. I've had a pair of Phil Wood hubs for over thirty years and just noticed
    some wobble in my rear tire. My bike shop (a trustworthy place) reports
    that the hub is broken and they'd recommend replacement.

    I don't have a high-end modern bike. It's a parts hybrid assembled in the
    early seventies that includes an Allegro 531 frame, some Campagnolo gear
    and a few pedestrian components that I really should get around to
    replacing (Universal 61 centerpulls, that sort of thing). But my immediate
    concern is a new hub.

    I ride for fitness, usually not more than 12-15 miles a day, all urban
    cycling on surface streets. I don't need anything fancy but don't really
    want something that would be inappropriate with the upgrades I'm gradually
    doing.

    Would someone like to recommend something and let me know what price I'll
    need to anticipate? Do I need to replace both hubs or just one?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

    ----
    [email hidden]

  2. saki said:

    Would someone like to recommend something and let me know what price I'll
    need to anticipate? Do I need to replace both hubs or just one?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

    First thing to do is contact the Phil Wood company--they're truly
    amazing--and find out what to do. Perhaps the hubs are quite salvageable,
    perhaps not. If it's just a shot cartridge bearing or axle--that's
    relatively cheap and easy. Your shop may be trustworthy, but not as
    familiar with the particulars of Phil's hubs as you think. Worth a shot
    getting a second opinion, and would probably help if you can send or post
    some digital images to go along with your query.

    Building a new wheel around a fresh Phil Hub is going to cost a pretty
    penny (you'll get a damn fine wheel in return of course) but perhaps it's
    time to take stock and see if that money would be better invested towards
    a more basic wheelset or new bike, or if sentimental value trumps
    all...just go for it.

    Let us know how it goes.

  3. maxo said:

    First thing to do is contact the Phil Wood company--they're truly
    amazing--and find out what to do. Perhaps the hubs are quite


    salvageable,

    Quoted message said:

    perhaps not. If it's just a shot cartridge bearing or axle--that's
    relatively cheap and easy. Your shop may be trustworthy, but not as
    familiar with the particulars of Phil's hubs as you think. Worth a


    shot

    Quoted message said:

    getting a second opinion, and would probably help if you can send or


    post

    Quoted message said:

    some digital images to go along with your query.

    Excellent advice, thanks. I'll see what Phil Wood might have to say.

    Quoted message said:

    Building a new wheel around a fresh Phil Hub is going to cost a


    pretty

    Quoted message said:

    penny (you'll get a damn fine wheel in return of course) but perhaps


    it's

    Quoted message said:

    time to take stock and see if that money would be better invested


    towards

    Quoted message said:

    a more basic wheelset or new bike, or if sentimental value trumps
    all...just go for it.

    I'm very nostalgic about the frame, perhaps foolishly, but I recognize
    that things have changed during the past thirty years. This is
    something I'll have to consider carefully.
    Thanks very much!

    ----
    [email hidden]

    Quoted message said:


    Let us know how it goes.

  4. I agree that the first thing you should do is contact Phil Wood. Phil
    can be very reasonable with repairs of its products.

    With regard to your frame, hey, it you're nostalgic and the frame fits
    you, no need to change it. You can "upgrade" your frame with modern
    components should you choose. Modern components may require you to
    spread your dropouts to fit 130mm standard, but other than that, you
    should be able to use it!

    If you need to build a new wheel, and a new Phil is too expensive. Take
    a look at Shimano or Campy's hubs. Both are excellent and will easily
    take 8, 9, or 10 speed cogs should you decide to make your bike more
    modern. Alternatively, freewheel hubs and complete wheels can be found
    fairly cheap on ebay, craigslist or your local bike shop bulletin board
    as most riders today don't use this form. Lots of ways to go. Good
    Luck!

  5. "bfd" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:1106164131.578512.297150
    @z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

    Quoted message said:

    I agree that the first thing you should do is contact Phil Wood. Phil
    can be very reasonable with repairs of its products.

    I appreciate the advice. For the short term my local shop installed a
    temporary hub (a Normandy, I believe) and I can at least get around on
    the bike till I can find out what Phil Wood would charge to repair the
    old hub.

    Quoted message said:

    With regard to your frame, hey, it you're nostalgic and the frame fits
    you, no need to change it. You can "upgrade" your frame with modern
    components should you choose. Modern components may require you to
    spread your dropouts to fit 130mm standard, but other than that, you
    should be able to use it!

    Will spreading the dropouts create metal fatigue on the frame eventually,
    or isn't the spread that significant?

    Quoted message said:

    If you need to build a new wheel, and a new Phil is too expensive. Take
    a look at Shimano or Campy's hubs. Both are excellent and will easily
    take 8, 9, or 10 speed cogs should you decide to make your bike more
    modern. Alternatively, freewheel hubs and complete wheels can be found
    fairly cheap on ebay, craigslist or your local bike shop bulletin board
    as most riders today don't use this form. Lots of ways to go. Good
    Luck!

    Thanks very much for the details.

    With the prospects of facing permanent retirement for my bike I realized
    how nostalgic I actually am for that Allegro frame. The only other bike
    made today that I could embrace might be a Rivendell, if I could afford
    one. But I don't know how they rate next to more modern models. I sure
    like their look, though.

    ----
    [email hidden]

  6. In article <[email hidden]>,

    saki said:

    Will spreading the dropouts create metal fatigue on the frame eventually,
    or isn't the spread that significant?

    This article explaining frame spacing, by Sheldon Brown,
    might be of interest to you:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    -- Nothing is safe from me.
    Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  7. [email hidden] (Tom Keats) wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    saki said:

    Will spreading the dropouts create metal fatigue on the frame
    eventually, or isn't the spread that significant?

    This article explaining frame spacing, by Sheldon Brown,
    might be of interest to you:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

    Thanks, very helpful, if painful-looking.

    ----
    [email hidden]

  8. Saki asks:

    <Will spreading the dropouts create metal fatigue on the frame
    eventually, or isn't the spread that significant? >

    You may want to read the Bicycle FAQ "frames going soft" and "frame
    fatique":

    http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bicycles-faq/part3/section-46.html

    http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bicycles-faq/part3/section-45.html

    <With the prospects of facing permanent retirement for my bike I
    realized
    how nostalgic I actually am for that Allegro frame. The only other bike

    made today that I could embrace might be a Rivendell, if I could afford

    one. But I don't know how they rate next to more modern models. I sure
    like their look, though. >

    I think you need to look at what will fit YOU and your type of riding.
    If your Allegro fits and is in "good shape". I would ride it,
    especially if money is tight. Upgrading parts is easy. If your frame
    has the old 120 or 126mm spacing, it can be spread to fit the more
    modern 130mm standard. If you don't know how, find a good shop to do
    it. Worth the money.

    Alternatively, you can always "upgrade" to a new frameset. It doesn't
    necessarily have to cost alot. Obviously, if you want a "Riv" or high
    custom-made in America lugged steel bike, be prepared to fork out $$$$
    for a frameset, e.g., Rivendell customs *start* at $2500 with a 2 year
    wait; others like Eisentraut, Bruce Gordon, Steve Rex, etc. are about
    that and don't ask about a Richard Sachs - $3K, 3 year wait list.

    There are some cheaper alternatives. Rivendell sells its Romulus
    bicycles (complete) for $1500; Rambo frameset, made in Japan by Toyo
    cost about $1400. Other brands that are a bit cheaper include Jitensha
    studios' Ebisu, Waterford, and Heron all in the $1k price range.

    You can get a English-made Mercian for a little less, depending on the
    strength of the dollar, which we all know is sucking right now, at
    about $800-900. However, maybe the best deal in lugged steel framesets
    is Matthew Gramm's Kogwells. Made in China, a frameset can be found for
    about $600-700, with room for fenders. A great buy:

    www.kogswell.com

    Good Luck!

  9. "bfd" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:1107553004.129712.132610
    @z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

    Quoted message said:

    I think you need to look at what will fit YOU and your type of riding.
    If your Allegro fits and is in "good shape". I would ride it,
    especially if money is tight. Upgrading parts is easy. If your frame
    has the old 120 or 126mm spacing, it can be spread to fit the more
    modern 130mm standard. If you don't know how, find a good shop to do
    it. Worth the money.

    That may be the way to go for the future. I do like the frame...so does my
    son, to whom I've promised the bike when I'm too old to ride it. :-)

    Quoted message said:

    You can get a English-made Mercian for a little less, depending on the
    strength of the dollar, which we all know is sucking right now, at
    about $800-900. However, maybe the best deal in lugged steel framesets
    is Matthew Gramm's Kogwells. Made in China, a frameset can be found for
    about $600-700, with room for fenders. A great buy:

    www.kogswell.com

    I've bookmarked this site. Nice to know there are still vendors out there
    producing good-quality steel-frame lugged bikes. Many thanks.

    ----
    [email hidden]

  10. saki said:

    Thanks, very helpful, if painful-looking.

    the 2x4 and chair method is actually downright fun in my experience.

    mmmm, primal bending. :P

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