Changing Forks

"Rob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:6tFFd.70016$8l.66786@pd7tw1no...

Quoted message said:

Hi I would like to change the forks on my Cannondale TT Bike....I know
how to order the correct size..but my question is do I need special
tools to make the change ? can someone give me a step by step guide on
how to change them ?

Assuming this is threadless and you'll be using the same headset
bearings, all you need is a new crown race and star fangled nut. If you
don't have the tool to install the crown race, your LBS will install it
for nothing or a very small fee. Some people salvage the crown race from
the old fork but prying it off may damage it.

1/ remove cap, stem and any spacers
2/ remove front brake
3/ slide out the fork and retain the top and bottom bearings.
4/ install crown race on new fork
5/ slide bottom bearing on fork.
6/ install fork and slide on top bearing
7/ slide on stem and any spacers and mark position where steerer tube
protrudes.
8/ cut steerer approx 1/8th inch shorter
9/ install new star fangled nut
10/ slide on stem and spacers and adjust tension with cap before
tightening
11/ install brake

Phil H

"Philip Holman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Rob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:6tFFd.70016$8l.66786@pd7tw1no...

Quoted message said:

Hi I would like to change the forks on my Cannondale TT Bike....I know
how to order the correct size..but my question is do I need special
tools to make the change ? can someone give me a step by step guide on
how to change them ?

Assuming this is threadless and you'll be using the same headset
bearings, all you need is a new crown race and star fangled nut. If you
don't have the tool to install the crown race, your LBS will install it
for nothing or a very small fee. Some people salvage the crown race from
the old fork but prying it off may damage it.

1/ remove cap, stem and any spacers
2/ remove front brake
3/ slide out the fork and retain the top and bottom bearings.
4/ install crown race on new fork
5/ slide bottom bearing on fork.
6/ install fork and slide on top bearing
7/ slide on stem and any spacers and mark position where steerer tube
protrudes.
8/ cut steerer approx 1/8th inch shorter
9/ install new star fangled nut
10/ slide on stem and spacers and adjust tension with cap before
tightening
11/ install brake

Phil H

I found this on the cycling plus site it may be of use to you.

http://www.cyclingplus.co.uk/workshopdetails.asp?id=29

cheers
Jon_H

philip-<< Assuming this is threadless and you'll be using the same headset
bearings, all you need is a new crown race and star fangled nut. >><BR><BR>

Ya don't need a new fork crwon race, just a good LBS with a proper tool, like
the Park FCR remover.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Peter Chisholm said:

Ya don't need a new fork crwon race, just a good LBS with a proper tool, like
the Park FCR remover.

That's a pretty pricey tool for such a simple job. Is there
something wrong with using the old fashioned crown race remover, the
hammer and punch?
--
terry morse Palo Alto, CA http://bike.terrymorse.com/

Peter Chisholm said:

Quoted message said:

Ya don't need a new fork crwon race, just a good LBS with a proper tool, like
the Park FCR remover.

Terry Morse asked:

Quoted message said:

That's a pretty pricey tool for such a simple job. Is there
something wrong with using the old fashioned crown race remover, the
hammer and punch?

Many newer forks, especially suspension forks, and forks that are made
things other than steel, have such bulky crowns that the old-reliable
hammer and punch system doesn't work because you can't get a decent
purchase on the underside of the crown race.

The Park FCR is a great tool for these applications.

Sheldon "Mutatis Mutandis" Brown
+----------------------------------------------------+
| I admit that reason is a small and feeble flame, |
| a flickering torch by stumblers carried in the |
| star-less night, -- blown and flared by passion's |
| storm, -- and yet, it is the only light. |
| Extinguish that, and nought remains. |
| -- Robert Green Ingersoll |
+----------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

Quoted message said:

Peter Chisholm said:

Ya don't need a new fork crwon race, just a good LBS with a proper tool, like
the Park FCR remover.

Terry Morse said:

That's a pretty pricey tool for such a simple job. Is there
something wrong with using the old fashioned crown race remover, the
hammer and punch?

A punch used carefully, or for mountain now, a cold chisel
90 degrees from where we once struck, works.

Classic Italian crown race removers and their copies don't.
Since those were designed , crown races got smaller. Races
are also easy to chip or dent because they're thinner at the
edges. The lack-of-crown-area doesn't take the older tools
well, either.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Terry-<< That's a pretty pricey tool for such a simple job. Is there
something wrong with using the old fashioned crown race remover, the
hammer and punch? >><BR><BR>

I say-not for a bike shop. Use a punch and often you will kill the crown race.
Aluminum ones for sure, some thinner steel ones as well. I suggested the gent
go to a bike shop with the proper tool, not buy a Park FCR tool for one job.
Using this tool and you don't need a new fork crown race.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"