BB antiseize doesn't work?

phil-<< I then put antiseize on the full circumference and
depth of the threads, thinking that it would make a nice snug fit, and then
reassembled. It was just fine for a couple of days of totally dry riding.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<BR><BR>

<< Was this because the antiseize dried, became brittle, and now
is allowing relative movement between the shell and cups? >><BR><BR>

I answer-probably. Use Permatex antisieze or just good grease. Lots of it
including inside the BB cups.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Hi Phil
Did you torque it to (what? 35 ft lb lIRC) The purpose of antiseize is
to prevent the seizing of the BB threads to the BB housing threads. Not
to hold it in place. (Although due to it's hi viscosity, it does
sometimes help that way) If U TQed the cups & they still loosened, then
it sounds as if the BB housing threads might be bad.
The 1st thing I'd do is TQ both ends to 40 ft lbs. Look in a TQ
reference 1st to find the max TQ for this BB. This is very hard to do
w/o a way to hold the splined BB tool on the ends. I’m assuming U have
a spine drive crank, which uses different spines to tighten the end
cups. I made a device of the same sized bolt as the crank bolts &
washers & short lengths of ~1 1/4" pipe, or whatever size pipe is a
little smaller that the tool, to hold the BB tool in place & measure
the TQ w/ a crows foot adapter to the TQ wrench.
If that doesn't work then I'd have the BB housing re threaded.
If that doesn't do it, then U can have the BB housing milled out &
rethreaded w/ an Italian BB. Using an Italian BB always makes U much
faster
Good Luck, John

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Hi Phil
Did you torque it to (what? 35 ft lb lIRC) The purpose of antiseize is
to prevent the seizing of the BB threads to the BB housing threads. Not
to hold it in place. (Although due to it's hi viscosity, it does
sometimes help that way) If U TQed the cups & they still loosened, then
it sounds as if the BB housing threads might be bad.

The thing is, the frame and cups are just fine. The threads are intact and
in good shape. I think I will go back and use grease this time around.

Phil

Phil said:

My Giant STP2 came with completely dry BB cups (Truvativ ISIS), and I had
ridden it for about 6 months before enough wet rides had penetrated it and
caused it to creak to the point where I couldn't ignore it.

I took it out, noticed the dry dust on the threads and cleaned the shell,
cups, and dust wipers. I then put antiseize on the full circumference and
depth of the threads, thinking that it would make a nice snug fit, and then
reassembled. It was just fine for a couple of days of totally dry riding.

When I took it out for a ride after those few days, it was even worse than
it was before. It sounds more like cracking now than just creaking like it
was before. Was this because the antiseize dried, became brittle, and now
is allowing relative movement between the shell and cups?

Is plumber's tape a better solution? Does plain old grease work best? Why
didn't the antiseize work well? I ride this bike in the rain occasionally,
and I hate taking bottom brackets apart.

Most of the BB cups I have seen usually have light antiseize on the threads
already from the factory. Or is it Loctite? When would you use antiseize
as opposed to loctite or antiseize? When would you use antiseize as opposed
to loctite?

Phil, Squid-in-Training

I had this same problem with a TruVativ crank and and Isis BB...I took the BB out, greased it, but it back in, and it still clicked...finally took it back to the LBS, where they installed it with a torque wrench. That eliminated the problem. Apparently, the correct torque setting is VERY important with an Isis drive in an aluminum frame.........

Hay Phil
Forgive me, in my last post, I didn?t include enough options, sorry
:-(
If after TQ'ing to Mfgrs max TQ doesn't work, them try plumbers Teflon
tape w/ grease or antisieze. Use as many layers as U can get to thread
into the BB. If it still comes loose or squeaks after that. Then try
Loctite. But be very careful, I was I a bike shop where 2 wrenches were
trying to remove a BB from a very expensive aluminum Italian road
racing bike. They totally striped out the alloy-threaded part of the
shell. I think I'd try 242 Blue Loctite 1st. If that didn't work, I'd
try the Red (262?). W/ the Red U might need heat or chemical means to
remove it when future servicing is required. I believe they said that
the BB in the Italian bike had a thread locker applied.
If none or the above works, then try the Italian thread thing.
It really doesn't matter what lube U use, grease or antiseize. A loose
BB cartage is a loose BB cartage. The advantage to antiseize is that 2
or 10 yrs down the road, U will not find the cartage seized to the
shell. Also it's viscous & some times that acts like a mild thread
locker. But that's not its purpose.
And, of course w/ all the above options always use the correct torque.
This is one of the places correct TQ is very important.
HTH, John

Quoted message said:

Hay Phil
Forgive me, in my last post, I didn?t include enough options, sorry
:-(
If after TQ'ing to Mfgrs max TQ doesn't work, them try plumbers Teflon
tape w/ grease or antisieze. Use as many layers as U can get to thread
into the BB. If it still comes loose or squeaks after that. Then try
Loctite. But be very careful, I was I a bike shop where 2 wrenches were
trying to remove a BB from a very expensive aluminum Italian road
racing bike. They totally striped out the alloy-threaded part of the
shell. I think I'd try 242 Blue Loctite 1st. If that didn't work, I'd
try the Red (262?). W/ the Red U might need heat or chemical means to
remove it when future servicing is required. I believe they said that
the BB in the Italian bike had a thread locker applied.
If none or the above works, then try the Italian thread thing.
It really doesn't matter what lube U use, grease or antiseize. A loose
BB cartage is a loose BB cartage. The advantage to antiseize is that 2
or 10 yrs down the road, U will not find the cartage seized to the
shell. Also it's viscous & some times that acts like a mild thread
locker. But that's not its purpose.
And, of course w/ all the above options always use the correct torque.
This is one of the places correct TQ is very important.

Anti seize paste is not in any way a 'thread locker'. Its
intended purpose is fasteners in extreme heat/corrosive
environments such as exhaust headers, mufflers, etc. It
protects against corrosion better than grease. In bicycles
we use it where dissimilar metals may otherwise corrode -
aluminum fittings in titanium for example.

If you suspect a fastener or component has been loctited,
use a heat gun first. Loctite breaks down readily at 325
degrees F. Or with trichlorethylene.
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=214&layout=2
No need to force the assembly to the point of thread damage.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Hi Andrew
Is 325F a safe temp for aluminum? And if it is, how is one to control
the temp at the surface of the BB (or whatever aluminum area) to reach
325F in side. IIRC around 400 to 500 is the upper limit for some
alloys, w/o crossing a phase change. Scares me, and they call me
"fearless" ;-)
Also I didn't mean to imply that antiseize is a true thread locker,
just that it does have some drag. More that, say, any grease I have
used.
Happy Holidays, John

Also, to be the bearer of bad news, in my experience, Giant frames have been notoriously creaky in the bottom bracket. Even more so with a Truvativ crankset. Enough to the point that I have had a customer just flat out replace it to avoid the problem.

"ahimsa" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Also, to be the bearer of bad news, in my experience, Giant frames have
been notoriously creaky in the bottom bracket. Even more so with a
Truvativ crankset. Enough to the point that I have had a customer just
flat out replace it to avoid the problem.

--
ahimsa

I've had two other 2003-2004 Giants, all with RaceFace ISIS BBs, and have
been able to solve creaking with grease, and since I haven't tried that yet,
I'm not too worried. I figured that I'd try the antiseize first since water
has gotten past the grease in the past on really wet, muddy rides, but it
looks like I'll be sticking with grease.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

you TOOK IT OUT
YOU DID WHAT???

holy gap batman!! you can't TAKE IT OUT
IT DOESN'T COME OUT!!
does it?
boy, mine don't.
propane propane curse inveigle the gods promise to sacrifice my nabors
kids
use a large vise grip or huge channelocks pipe wrench pliers
ya know: put on gloves and sum jazz and dance around with a park tool
like ur sumkinda F1 mechanic
mangle the locknut
burn the hellouttathe paint
ur gap's too big.
try blue loctite. thatill hold it then ya gotta heat it to get it out.

OR YOU CAN CRANK THE SUCKER DOWN>
Apparently, the correct torque setting is
VERY important with an Isis drive in an aluminum frame.........
Ron338

ONE OF THE REASONS LOCTITE IS POPULAR
yawl get to crank it down without cranking it down.
than sometimes yawl get a bad batch
and it don't do nuthin.
but not often

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

you TOOK IT OUT
YOU DID WHAT???

holy gap batman!! you can't TAKE IT OUT
IT DOESN'T COME OUT!!
does it?
boy, mine don't.
propane propane curse inveigle the gods promise to sacrifice my nabors
kids
use a large vise grip or huge channelocks pipe wrench pliers
ya know: put on gloves and sum jazz and dance around with a park tool
like ur sumkinda F1 mechanic
mangle the locknut
burn the hellouttathe paint
ur gap's too big.
try blue loctite. thatill hold it then ya gotta heat it to get it out.

If you're using locknuts, you must have a one-piece crank.

I'm not going to use loctite... I'd never want to heat the bike up to loosen
it up.

Sometimes I think you're genius, and at other times, I just don't get where
you're coming from...

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"A bad batch"?
I suspect it was an old batch.
See my post w/ in the last 2 weeks.
Loctite says 1-year life after opening.
I say more than one yr. but <4yrs. Based on experience.
John