Grip said:Well it's always good to hear feedback on our products... good OR bad... but if you're going to tell us what is right and wrong with pricing OR that $409 is ridiculous for (how did he put it...) a bit of welded tube etc... then for Christ's sake get some knowledge and facts behind you first.
Ok, Ok, don't go getting all emotive on my ass - you're actually confusing two people who don't always see eye to eye on any given topic, and their replies to a post on the relative merits of your and other repair stands.
Here's my story:
I've been using bike stands for most of my working life, and have had a fair acquaintance with the different types and brands, both here and overseas. I like the clamp style design, and like well-designed, time-tested and proven ones even more. Here's hoping . . .
Is it, or is it not true, that you use readily available sections of rod, tube and plate to construct your stands? I may have been a bit sharp and seemed a bit dismissive, but several large companies use castings/forgings and bring their products in at around your (retail) price. Several other companies use (custom)extrusions and pressings, and beat your retail price. I understand the vagaries of manufacturing/retailing a small volume in/from Australia (to overseas), but it's an open market, and I call it as I find it. I can say that I've had a fair aquaintance with your product, having worked with them in one shop and in the field supporting events. Your welding is not able to be faulted, and your finish and manufacturing standards are well up to scratch. I'm just saying that the portability and performance need a bit more of a look at if you want to compete with the likes of Park, Topeak, Minoura, Ultimate et al.
Specifically (IIRC, after a while not using them):
The rotating head clamp (after several hundred adjustments) needs a lot of torque to stop it slipping (scared of snapping the weld off the rod/nut). The rubber clamp gasket (?) deforms, and doesn't do much to stop the selected angle sagging to something more acute. Yes, I greased the threads and the underside of the nut, but had to resort to an extension bar on the rod.
Compared to, for instance, the Park forged alloy head, the selection of the tube clamp diameter is imprecise and unwieldy. The cam action is way too sharp, and not progressive enough to feel if you are going to overtighten the clamp on the tube. The little wheels need better bearings. The clamp tension adjustment screw needs a finer thread (more precise adjustment).
The legs (on the floorstanding models) are vulnerable to having the whole assembly bumped/upset, having no positive locking mechanism. The tab screws are too small to get enough torque on the upright to keep the leg/head assembly where you put it. The legs flap around when you're carrying the telescoped stand, sometimes painfully.
It's heavy, if you have to carry it for any distance. Workshop stands are heavy, portable/consumer stands need to be light.
I've made a couple of stands of my own, using commercially available lockdown clamps, with simple and robust adjustment and few sharp edges.
I didn't want to hurt your pride, and sorry for what, on reflection, seems to be a flippant reply, but I wish you well. I've tried to be a bit less flippant and more constructive here. Aussie bike bits that work well and get a rep for it have my vote and my dollar. Make a stand that's better than either a Park PRS, or a Minoura R3000, and I'll buy it.
M "picky [censored]" H