rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

Breaks on a coker??Yes???No??

Started by total uni · · Last activity · 16 posts · 481 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
rec.sport.unicycling
Published
15 December 2004
Last activity
17 December 2004
Original author
total uni
Posts
16
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
481
Views / 30 days
2

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–16 of 16
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. i have been thinking of getting a coker for a long time now and finaly i
    think i am going to get one. how much do breaks help on a coker? should
    i get them? in what cases would i use them?

    Evan

    P.S. how strong is the remanufactured coker from uni.com? as in, what
    can i and cant i do with it? can it withstand curbs and minor drops?

    --
    total uni

    two wrongs dont make a right, but three rights make a left
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    total uni's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/8125
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  2. total uni said:

    *P.S. how strong is the remanufactured coker from uni.com? as in, what
    can i and cant i do with it? can it withstand curbs and minor drops? *

    http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=660 Remanufactured
    Coker is no longer available.

    --
    One on one - Hooked on fun fix

    "I don't care who you are, that's funny!" Larry the Cable Guy
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    One on one's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/5740
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  3. "Only 3 available."

    this came after the "(no longer availvble)" came up

    --
    total uni

    two wrongs dont make a right, but three rights make a left
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    total uni's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/8125
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  4. I was thinking about saying "use the search button", but that doesnt
    really lead to any constructive replies. There have been many threads
    on this, but here is the breakdown:

    If you are going to be riding a lot of descents, get a brake. If you
    are mainly just going to be riding on mainly flat roads, with little
    hills here and there that arent too steep or long, a brake is not
    necessary. Also, get an airseat with it.

    Edit:

    since i do not own a coker myself, I am not sure what the difference in
    the types of brakes are. The coker comes with a V brake, i dont know
    how much different this is from a magura hydraulic (sp?) brake.

    --
    siafirede - straight edge in your face

    'Modern Life Is War' (http://www.modernlifeiswar.net)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    siafirede's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6057
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  5. total uni said:

    *i have been thinking of getting a coker for a long time now and
    finaly i think i am going to get one. how much do breaks help on a
    coker? should i get them? in what cases would i use them?

    Evan

    P.S. how strong is the remanufactured coker from uni.com? as in, what
    can i and cant i do with it? can it withstand curbs and minor drops? *

    andbody got a responce to that?

    --
    total uni

    two wrongs dont make a right, but three rights make a left
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    total uni's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/8125
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  6. it will withstand going over curbs, but best not smash into any curbs.
    Don't try to hop with it where you might land on an angle.

    You can take it through some pretty technical singletrack, if you take
    time to really learn how to ride gracefully, I know that learning to
    push the stock coker rim to the limits I really got better being able to
    manouvre it.

    'Here' (http://tinyurl.com/2xrat) is a video of me doing Muni, this is
    a stock rim, I am 180lbs with gear on, and you can see in a relatively
    small drop down, how my wheel taco's, luckily it sprang back to spape
    before I hit the ground, I was able to ride away fine. (I even did a
    24hr race on it after) That's now on my UW36 though, the Airfoil is
    very strong, and a worthy upgrade.

    And brakes aren't worth it, until you get down to 110's, or short
    cranks, I wouldn't pay extra for a brake, I just happened to have an
    extra one lying around so I thought it on. The lever has since broken,
    and I'm not going to bother to pay $70 to get it replaced

    --
    Brian MacKenzie - LAN Solo

    Forthcoming DVD
    TRAINING WHEEL NOT REQUIRED:
    '8mb Trailer' (http://www.brianmackenzie.com/TWNR_Trailer1.wmv)

    'Unicycle Product Reviews'
    (http://londonunicyclingclub.ca/unicycleReviews.aspx)
    *112* reviews on *75* products, never make an uninformed purchase again!

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Brian MacKenzie's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7650
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  7. In my most humble opinion, a brake on a Coker is only truly functional
    unless you use an Airfoil rim, a wide hub, and a good wheel build. With
    anything less the brake is less useful.

    The stock steel rim doesn't work well with a brake. It is not smooth
    enough. The braking surface is lumpy and bulgy which will cause the
    brake to grab more on one section of the wheel than others. You will
    not have smooth braking. The stock rim is also too flexy so you'll end
    up with the brake pads rubbing the rim when you pedal hard, for example
    when climbing up a hill. That all adds up to making the brake more of a
    pain than it is worth.

    You don't need a brake on a Coker even if you're going up and down
    hills. You can get along without it. If you ride steeper hills
    regularly and you have difficulty controlling the Coker on the downhills
    then get longer cranks.

    A brake is nice if you have it, and have a good Airfoil wheel. It lets
    you relax a bit on the downhills and saves some wear and tear on the
    legs. If you have bad knees you'll appreciate the brake even more.

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
    Gallery: '' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  8. Even if the remanufactured Coker is no longer available, you could still
    buy a regular Coker and an extra-wide Unicycle.com hub. Then have
    someone rebuild the wheel using the extra-wide hub. You'll end up with
    a stronger wheel than a pure stock Coker.

    If you can splurge, the Airfoil rim along with the extra-wide hub is a
    worthy upgrade. Especially if you're thinking about riding a little bit
    on the aggressive side with it (which includes riding off curbs).

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
    Gallery: '' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  9. well, when gb4 did the ride across iowa he had a brake. didn't use it
    much despite numerous hills where it would've helped. Unless you have
    and awesomely strong rim and good wheelbulild you're really asking for
    your run to come out of true. Coker wheels and a pain to true back up
    and if the brake is more than just for show you'll pull a cheap rim
    waaay out of true right away.

    --
    markf - movie nerd

    stuck in iowa and unemployed.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    markf's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/8102
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  10. Anyone know the answer to my question. Is there much of a difference
    between the V brake and the hydraulic? If one were to get a brake,
    would the optional V-brake that comes with the coker be sufficient for
    riding with ease down long steep hills?

    --
    siafirede - straight edge in your face

    'Modern Life Is War' (http://www.modernlifeiswar.net)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    siafirede's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6057
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  11. stopping power is not an issue, as you need little of it to slow your
    unicycle.

    V-brakes would be cheaper and stop you just as good.

    Hydraulic brakes look cleaner, don't have to worry about pointy frayed
    cable ends sticking into your legs, and you can adjust the pads by
    turning a knob on the lever to set the brakes pad in to constantly rub
    the wheel slightly (sy, to take some bite of a long down hill, if you
    had the brakes slightly on, you wouldn't have to worry about using your
    muscles as much for slowing power)

    Either brake will pretty much work fine and run smoothly for a long
    time. People say hydro's are hassle free, which is true to an extent,
    but I have broken 3 $70 hyrdraulic levers on unicycles, buy that lever
    hitting the ground. I have gone through my supply of brake levers and
    will not be getting more.

    --
    Brian MacKenzie - LAN Solo

    Forthcoming DVD
    TRAINING WHEEL NOT REQUIRED:
    '8mb Trailer' (http://www.brianmackenzie.com/TWNR_Trailer1.wmv)

    'Unicycle Product Reviews'
    (http://londonunicyclingclub.ca/unicycleReviews.aspx)
    *112* reviews on *75* products, never make an uninformed purchase again!

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Brian MacKenzie's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7650
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  12. One nice thing about the Magura hydraulic brake is that the pads will
    not move if/when your legs rub against the brake cylinders on the fork.
    The brake cylinders are also smooth so they don't scratch you if/when
    your legs rub them.

    The arms on a V-brake will activate if/when your legs rub against them.
    The brake arm movement will cause the pad to rub the rim. That is not
    desirable and could lead to a UPD. The brake arms on a V-brake also
    have angular edges and pointy bits that will scratch your legs if/when
    you rub your legs against them. A V-brake also sticks out more than the
    hydraulic brake which causes more brake rubbing on your leg.

    Some people have more of a problem with rubbing the brake with their
    legs than other people. It depends on a bunch of factors like how long
    your legs are (people with longer legs may not have as much of a
    problem), how large your thighs are, whether you ride bow legged, the
    size of the unicycle, etc. Some people may never rub their leg on a
    brake while others will be constantly rubbing their legs against it.

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
    Gallery: '' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  13. Brian MacKenzie said:

    *
    Either brake will pretty much work fine and run smoothly for a long
    time. People say hydro's are hassle free, which is true to an extent,
    but I have broken 3 $70 hyrdraulic levers on unicycles, buy that lever
    hitting the ground. I have gone through my supply of brake levers and
    will not be getting more. *

    I have a short little stubby boom that I can install in place of my long
    touring JC Coker Handle. It's basically the boom that I used here in
    'JC Coker Handle revision Beta 1' (http://tinyurl.com/2jowz) but without
    the red stem and barend handles. Its main purpose is to protect the
    brake handle that I have mounted under the seat on my Coker.

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
    Gallery: '' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  14. So, it would probably be worth the 34 dollar difference between the V
    brake and the hydraulic. Im not planning on getting a coker until maybe
    the summer, if i have enough money, so i will have time to try out
    someone elses coker and see if my legs rub near the wheel. I think the
    coker i tried at a uni meet in DC had V brakes on it and i didnt seem to
    have any problems with it. Thanks for your replies.

    --
    siafirede - straight edge in your face

    'Modern Life Is War' (http://www.modernlifeiswar.net)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    siafirede's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6057
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  15. The Magura brake is worth the price difference. It just works better
    than the mechanical V-brake. But the hydraulic brakes also have their
    own issues. If you get a leak in the brake hose or the fittings you
    will have to bleed the brake and new fluid (the fluid is mineral oil
    based). That process is messy and a real pain to do. It also requires
    some special tools to do. You can order a bleeding kit from Magura that
    contains the necessary equipment (a large syringe, some special
    fittings, an extra tube, and some brake oil fluid).

    If you're saving up for a Coker I would consider a brake to be the last
    thing to upgrade to. You'll do much better to put money into an
    upgraded wheel and then a better frame before splurging on a brake.
    Spend the money on the wheel first, heck even consider getting a U-Turn
    strongest Coker wheel in the world. A brake can be added later in a
    year or two if you decide you really need it or can justify the money
    for it.

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
    Gallery: '' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

  16. Yes.
    I like having a brake on my coker. I had one on there with the stock
    rim and now with the airofofil too. I found it usefull even with the
    stock rim. I used it to give my knees some help on long/steep desents.
    I have a drag brake, with a friction shifter for a lever so I set it on
    a bit and let go and the presure remains. my brake was fitted by a bike
    shop useing second hand bits and pieces.

    Sarah

    --
    sarah.miller - unicycist
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    sarah.miller's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1694
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/36898

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.