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Best chain cleaning liquid

Started by Stuart Lamble · · Last activity · 10 posts · 607 views

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
12 December 2004
Last activity
13 December 2004
Original author
Stuart Lamble
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10
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  1. Hey folks. Not meaning to stir up any old flame wars or the like, so I
    apologise in advance if this is a hot topic ... but what's the best
    option for cleaning a chain? (In particular, a chain that has definite
    rust on it. I could replace it, but then I'd probably have to replace
    the clusters as well, and I'd prefer not to spend that much money just
    yet.)

    I've seen kerosene mentioned, as well as citrus-based cleaners. The
    ultrasonic cleaner from Jaycar looks to be reasonably priced. I'd assume
    a light machine oil would do the job for lubricating after the job is
    done?

    Where would I be best off buying the goods? Auto suppliers? Bike shops?
    Kmart? (*cheeky grin*)

    And most importantly -- I have a chain breaker, but I'll need
    replacement pins. Best bought from cycling shops, I assume?

    (If the truth were told, I probably should just replace both clusters,
    the chain, and likely the bottom bracket as well. It's just that I don't
    have the money right now... *sighs*)

    Stuart -- about to embark on the wonderful world of home bicycle
    maintenance.

    --
    My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
    the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@ to usenet".

  2. Stuart Lamble said:


    but what's the best option for cleaning a chain?
    (In particular, a chain that has definite rust on it.

    Your choice as you are doing it.
    For light maintenance, I just soak in kero, swing/hang dry, re-install
    and oil. Sometimes I wire brush rust, but usually don't bother.

    For heavy maintenance, I soak in kero, swing/hang dry and use motorcycle
    chain lubricant. It coats the rusty part with wax anyway.

    Quoted message said:

    I could replace it, but then I'd probably have to replace
    the clusters as well, and I'd prefer not to spend that much money just
    yet.)

    I usually match a cluster to three chains, as I tour/commute as rotate
    them regularly so they all wear down together.

    MTB'ers seem to claim that muddy conditions give you 1 chain/cluster,
    whereas some track racers claim 5 chains/cluster.

    Quoted message said:

    Where would I be best off buying the goods? Auto suppliers? Bike shops?
    Kmart? (*cheeky grin*)

    Woolies seem to sell kero cheaply. In some places bulk isn't
    neccessarily cheaper. Not sure where I purchased the motor cycle chain
    lubricant as I still have my original two tins. Supercheap auto?
    AutoOne, etc,

    Quoted message said:


    And most importantly -- I have a chain breaker, but I'll need
    replacement pins. Best bought from cycling shops, I assume?

    Erk, or try K-Mart for a cheapy breaker; the pins might match.

  3. "Terry Collins" <[email hidden]> wrote

    Quoted message said:

    I usually match a cluster to three chains, as I tour/commute as rotate
    them regularly so they all wear down together.

    MTB'ers seem to claim that muddy conditions give you 1 chain/cluster,
    whereas some track racers claim 5 chains/cluster.

    Trackies with clusters...? ;-)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    And most importantly -- I have a chain breaker, but I'll need
    replacement pins. Best bought from cycling shops, I assume?

    ~$2 for a Shimano pin from your LBS.

    hippy

  4. "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Terry Collins" <[email hidden]> wrote

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    And most importantly -- I have a chain breaker, but I'll need
    replacement pins. Best bought from cycling shops, I assume?

    ~$2 for a Shimano pin from your LBS.

    The greatest pipoff from the bis S. Have a look around for the Wipperman
    joining link - about $8 for two joiners and you can re-use them again and
    again.

    Cheers
    Peter

  5. Peter Signorini said:


    "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Terry Collins" <[email hidden]> wrote

    Quoted message said:

    > And most importantly -- I have a chain breaker, but I'll need
    > replacement pins. Best bought from cycling shops, I assume?

    ~$2 for a Shimano pin from your LBS.

    The greatest pipoff from the bis S. Have a look around for the Wipperman
    joining link - about $8 for two joiners and you can re-use them again and
    again.

    Thanks for the tips. Three runs through the ultrasonic cleaner, and my
    chain's looking a _lot_ nicer. Now I just need to get hold of
    appropriate lubricant and either a pin, or the joining link, and I'm
    set.

    Probably should also clean the clusters, bottom bracket, frame,
    headstem, SPD pedals, my shoes' cleats, ...

    Key question: can I be stuffed? Answer: not really :-) (although the
    bottom bracket probably does need to be replaced; there are some noises
    coming from down there that don't sound all that good.)

    Hm. Now, what the hell do I do with all this dirty kero I have floating
    around the place? (Anybody who suggests the stormwater drain will be
    shot. Repeatedly. In rather tender places.)

    --
    My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
    the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@ to usenet".

  6. quote='Stuart Lamble'On 2004-12-12 said:


    "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Terry Collins" <[email hidden]> wrote

    Quoted message said:

    > And most importantly -- I have a chain breaker, but I'll need
    > replacement pins. Best bought from cycling shops, I assume?

    ~$2 for a Shimano pin from your LBS.

    The greatest pipoff from the bis S. Have a look around for the Wipperman
    joining link - about $8 for two joiners and you can re-use them again and
    again.

    Thanks for the tips. Three runs through the ultrasonic cleaner, and my
    chain's looking a _lot_ nicer. Now I just need to get hold of
    appropriate lubricant and either a pin, or the joining link, and I'm
    set.

    Probably should also clean the clusters, bottom bracket, frame,
    headstem, SPD pedals, my shoes' cleats, ...

    Key question: can I be stuffed? Answer: not really :-) (although the
    bottom bracket probably does need to be replaced; there are some noises
    coming from down there that don't sound all that good.)

    Hm. Now, what the hell do I do with all this dirty kero I have floating
    around the place? (Anybody who suggests the stormwater drain will be
    shot. Repeatedly. In rather tender places.)

    --
    My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
    the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@ to usenet".[/QUOTE]
    Save dirty kero. If you "recycle" old PETE bottles (polyethylene terephalthalate sp?), they will do just fine. Let the kero settle until next cleaning. Decant the clean kero for cleaning.

  7. Stuart Lamble said:

    Hm. Now, what the hell do I do with all this dirty kero I have
    floating around the place?

    Filtering it through a paper coffee filter (as used in percolators)
    should get it clean enough for the next chain cleaning job.

    --
    Manfred

  8. Stuart Lamble said:

    Hm. Now, what the hell do I do with all this dirty kero I have floating
    around the place?

    Use it again.
    Seriously, just let it stand and most of the gunk settles out.
    Next time you use it first and it takes the heavy [censored] off the chain,
    then a little fresh stuff as a second wash. Eventually it all ends up so
    greasy you then landfill it.

    Mine actually ends up in the firelighter mix (kero, turps, metho mix)
    for soaking charcol/soft woods to light the wood fire.

  9. Stuart Lamble said:

    Hey folks. Not meaning to stir up any old flame wars or the like, so I
    apologise in advance if this is a hot topic ... but what's the best option for cleaning a chain? (In particular, a chain that has definite rust on it. to "usenet".

    I bought a Brass Wire Brush to clean the rust off my chain.
    It works and I figure that any brass that gets rubbed onto the steel may help to hold rust at bay. Brass coating is prob only 1 electron thick but its worth a go. Got to be better than scratching the gun blue or what ever off the chain and leaving a coating of ferrous material to rust almost immediately. Sounds good in theory!

    Hugh

  10. Stuart Lamble said:

    Hey folks. Not meaning to stir up any old flame wars or the like, so I
    apologise in advance if this is a hot topic ... but what's the best
    option for cleaning a chain? (In particular, a chain that has definite
    rust on it. I could replace it, but then I'd probably have to replace
    the clusters as well, and I'd prefer not to spend that much money just
    yet.)

    I've seen kerosene mentioned, as well as citrus-based cleaners. The
    ultrasonic cleaner from Jaycar looks to be reasonably priced. I'd assume
    a light machine oil would do the job for lubricating after the job is
    done?

    Where would I be best off buying the goods? Auto suppliers? Bike shops?
    Kmart? (*cheeky grin*)

    And most importantly -- I have a chain breaker, but I'll need
    replacement pins. Best bought from cycling shops, I assume?

    (If the truth were told, I probably should just replace both clusters,
    the chain, and likely the bottom bracket as well. It's just that I don't
    have the money right now... *sighs*)

    Stuart -- about to embark on the wonderful world of home bicycle
    maintenance.

    --
    My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
    the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@ to usenet".

    I use Citro-Clean & buy it from Coles when on special for $6.49 / 500ml.
    As mentioned above, you can save the used fluid & filter/settle the dirt/crud etc. Will also light your BBQ/wood heater if required.

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