1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?
2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless steel dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when i removed the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to remove fromt he hub but enough to be visible.
my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash, it's not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if anything was to get damaged in a crash, it would be the lever or the nut on the other end. it's a pre-GT Syncros steel QR.
1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?
Both, from what I see, but mostly road/touring.
Quoted message said:
2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless steel dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when i removed the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to remove fromt he hub but enough to be visible.
my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash, it's not exposed to rocks, roots....
I had one get bent -- the wheel was in the back of my station wagon when it got rear-ended. Perhaps some sort of impact when the wheel was off the bike? Or maybe a serious impact against the nut or the head. But most likely it happened off the bike.
--
David L. Johnson
__o | If all economists were laid end to end, they would not reach a _`\(,_ | conclusion. -- George Bernard Shaw (_)/ (_) |
i've actually got that tool....i've got 5 rigid forks that i swap between from time to time and i check them every 8 months....and when i first got them to make sure the money was worth it (they are all custom rigids)....and the current two...a vicious cycles and a vanialla cycles are dead on.
so is the indy fab and the ritchey.
what bugs me more is that i take care of my equipment and that this just baffles the hell out of me. i've been running scenarios over and over in my head on how this could have happened but just can't seem to figure it out.
c
kapers said:
Stop by your Friendly Neighborhood LBS and have them drop the wheel and check if the dropouts are parallel with a ffg-1 tool or similar device. Should only take a moment and a beverage incentive (something caffenated... or a barley-pop should do) will at least eliminate one possible cause of your skewer deformity. Hope this helps. Keith.
"carlos" <blacksheepQstic.net> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?
2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings
on my
Quoted message said:
King front hub (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with
Independent
Quoted message said:
Fabrications style stainless steel dropouts....if this info is of any
help). to
Quoted message said:
do that it requires removing the QR. when i removed the QR, i could see
that it
Quoted message said:
was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to remove fromt he hub
but
Quoted message said:
enough to be visible.
my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed
internally
Quoted message said:
so in a crash, it's not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if
anything
Quoted message said:
was to get damaged in a crash, it would be the lever or the nut on the
i borrowed a front Salsa QR but didn't like the not so smooth action. i still think the Shimano LX/XT/XTR QRs are smoothest. but that's all subjective.
i've already replced the old QR with the Shimano but i've got the old one sitting on my desk and it's just taunts me.
David Kunz said:
carlos said:
1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?
2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless steel dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when i removed the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to remove fromt he hub but enough to be visible.
my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash, it's not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if anything was to get damaged in a crash, it would be the lever or the nut on the other end. it's a pre-GT Syncros steel QR.
I had one that used to bend on it's own. I gave up straightening it -- it just bent again (nice smooth carc, not a very big one). I never really thought about it. I blamed it on being cheap 🙂. It held up fine for many miles of hard hits before the plastic cam got to much wear on it and too much grit embedded in it and I replaced it with a Salsa.
Glad you got the lube thing going! So is that where it's bent?
carlos <blacksheepQstic.net> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
got the lube down.
interesting....i'd never thought of that....it getting bent while closing it.
dianne_1234 said:
I've heard of skewers getting bent from closing them. The friction between the lever and plastic bit can sometimes impose a strong moment on the shaft. If it's bent right there, try lubing the surfaces that move.
carlos <blacksheepQstic.net> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
>1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both? > >2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub > (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless > steel dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when > i removed the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to > remove fromt he hub but enough to be visible. > >my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash, >it's not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if anything was to get damaged in a crash, >it would be the lever or the nut on the other end. it's a pre-GT Syncros steel QR.
you can get a sense of the bend by looking at the QR....but if you sight length wise along teh shaft, you can see it clearly.
Nicholas & Domino said:
is it a smooth bend or a real kink? what's the angle of the bend?
I can only think that if it's a rigid fork then a large impact has resulted in enough impact to the hub as to cause inelastic deformation in skewer, but only elastic deformation in the hub. Unlikely but it's only an idea.
nick
"carlos" <blacksheepQstic.net> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]... i borrowed a front Salsa QR but didn't like the not so smooth action. i still think the Shimano LX/XT/XTR QRs are smoothest. but that's all subjective.
i've already replced the old QR with the Shimano but i've got the old one sitting on my desk and it's just taunts me.
David Kunz said:
carlos said:
1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?
2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless steel dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when i removed the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to remove fromt he hub but enough to be visible.
my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash, it's not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if anything was to get damaged in a crash, it would be the lever or the nut on the other end. it's a pre-GT Syncros steel QR.
I had one that used to bend on it's own. I gave up straightening it -- it just bent again (nice smooth carc, not a very big one). I never really thought about it. I blamed it on being cheap 🙂. It held up fine for many miles of hard hits before the plastic cam got to much wear on it and too much grit embedded in it and I replaced it with a Salsa.
The Plan Having only ridden on a road bike with clips and straps, I am finally planing on buying a new bike. It seems as though this groups opinion is that in the spring is the best time to buy for economical reasons. Anyway, I was given a logical idea to put the clipless system on my old bike now, and get used to using it before transferring them to my new bike in April-ish.
The Question I think I am leaning towards the Look system, but I am now just beginning to research shoes. My question in a nutshell is, where do I begin? What various items do I look for in choosing the right clipless shoe?
