[email hidden] (Chandler=A0Webb) asked:
Quoted message said:Hi folks,
I have an old Shimano "Light Action SIS" 12 speed system, and I'd like to add a third chainring to
give it a lower range for hills.
It looks as though the front derailleur will adjust to accommodate a longer shifting range.
I'll have to look into a longer rear cage for the chain slack. How do I calculate the correct
chain length?
This is done after the new gears and deraileurs are installed. Lace the chain around the largest
cog, chainring and through both of the deraileurs.
Now pull it taught so the rear derailleur cage is stretched all the way forwards, then add a
couple of links.
Quoted message said:The (Sakae) crank has holes for the smaller chainring, but it looks as though it might need spacers
to mount it away from the inner chainring. Are these spacers commonly available parts?
Yes, Spacers are required to separate the smallest chainring from the crank arms. Just ask your
LBS for some. They'll probably run you about a buck each nowadays. It's been a while since I've
bought any.
Quoted message said:Can I simply order a Shimano 32 tooth (5 bolt) chainring, maybe for a 105 series, and install it,
or am I missing something? Is there going to be a difference in tooth spacing?
Quoted message said:Thanks for any help.
--
Chan Webb
Tooth spacing is one of the few things on a bicycle that is truly universal. 1/2" pitch, world wide
(why it hasn't gone metric, I don't know).
As to which five arm chainring you need, that depends on the type of crank spider (the five
arms) you have.
There are basically two sizes for a triple: Traditional and "Micro drive" (64 and 58 mm, I think).
Regardless of which type you end up with, you will still net the spacers. Be sure you tell the
dealer it's a six speed, ot a nine. Nine speed chain rings are spaced differently.
May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris
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