Ribble frames - opinions

darrenf said:

Hi

I have been researching frames as I am looking to buy a new one.

Basically, Ribble frames seem much cheaper than the vast majority of
other manufacturers, be they italian, US big brand names etc.

eg deddaciai sc6110a tubing, made by italian builder £290. Typical "big
brand" equivalent frame, upwards of £7/800?

N<snip>
Anyone on here bought frames from ribble that can offer opinions on
quality etc?

PS. dont want to open a can of worms about service from ribble- I know
there are a wide range of experiences- some good, some bad. Just after
opinions on the qaulity of their frames, particularly the deddaciai alu
models.

They used to have some real quality problems with their steel frames
but now that they import frames I havent heard of any recent troubles.
All the Ribbles I have seen recently (and there seem to be quite a
few about) have looked good and their owners have been happy.

Stan Cox

P.s. I wouldnt expect the frame to be the lightest example of each
tubeset but when you weigh as much as me that isnt the first
consideration.

Stan Cox said:

darrenf said:

Hi

I have been researching frames as I am looking to buy a new one.

Basically, Ribble frames seem much cheaper than the vast majority

of

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

other manufacturers, be they italian, US big brand names etc.

eg deddaciai sc6110a tubing, made by italian builder £290. Typical

"big

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

brand" equivalent frame, upwards of £7/800?

N<snip>
Anyone on here bought frames from ribble that can offer opinions on
quality etc?

PS. dont want to open a can of worms about service from ribble- I

know

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

there are a wide range of experiences- some good, some bad. Just

after

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

opinions on the qaulity of their frames, particularly the deddaciai

alu

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

models.

They used to have some real quality problems with their steel frames
but now that they import frames I havent heard of any recent

troubles.

Quoted message said:

All the Ribbles I have seen recently (and there seem to be quite a
few about) have looked good and their owners have been happy.

Stan Cox

P.s. I wouldnt expect the frame to be the lightest example of each
tubeset but when you weigh as much as me that isnt the first
consideration.

I have had the alloy audax/winter frame for 3 years and 8000+ km, still
as new, very impressed.

darrenf said:

Hi

I have been researching frames as I am looking to buy a new one.

Basically, Ribble frames seem much cheaper than the vast majority of
other manufacturers, be they italian, US big brand names etc.

eg deddaciai sc6110a tubing, made by italian builder £290. Typical "big
brand" equivalent frame, upwards of £7/800?

Anyone on here bought frames from ribble that can offer opinions on
quality etc?

I have an SC61.10 carbon black tail frame.
I bought it last November (covered about 2k
miles so far) and have had no issues regarding
the longevity of the frame, yet. The only problem
I've had so far was a creaking noise. This was
resolved by loctiting the srews which bolt the
carbon seat stays to the dropouts. It hasn't
returned since.

--
Alex
BMW R1150GS
DIAABTCOD#3 MSWF#4 UKRMFBC#6 Ibw#35 BOB#8
http://www.team-ukrm.co.uk
Windy's "little soldier"

darrenf wrote:

<snipped>

Quoted message said:

Anyone on here bought frames from ribble that can offer opinions on
quality etc?

I know two people who have bought Ribble road bikes - one is made from
Scandium aluminium. They both seem really pleased with them.

Tom.

Thanks for your replies. No bad reports then🙂

I will be paying their shop a visit tomorrow as I will be over that way anyway and I want to have a good look at their bikes/frames before I buy. Apparently, they have quite a few complete bikes in the shop.

Quoted post said:

P.s. I wouldnt expect the frame to be the lightest example of each
tubeset

Not sure about this. One of the cw tests I have is for the sc61.10a w carbon seat stay frame, built with campy chorus and ITM millenium forks, bars etc. The bike weighed in at 17lb according to cw. Seems pretty light to me!

So, what is the reason for the massive price difference? Are the big brands just ripping us off? Could it be massive LBS mark up?

On 8/11/04 9:26 am, in article
[email hidden], "Tom Orr"

Quoted message said:

darrenf wrote:

<snipped>

Quoted message said:

Anyone on here bought frames from ribble that can offer opinions on
quality etc?

I know two people who have bought Ribble road bikes - one is made from
Scandium aluminium. They both seem really pleased with them.

Both myself and a guy I work with have Ribble frames. He has a 531 and I
have a 653, both relatively old now (mine is from 1989).

I wasn't incredibly impressed with the finishing, and it is a little bit
twitchy on the rear, but great value for money and 20-30K miles on it later
I am still happy.

...d

Quoted message said:

Hi

I have been researching frames as I am looking to buy a new one.

Basically, Ribble frames seem much cheaper than the vast majority of
other manufacturers, be they italian, US big brand names etc.

eg deddaciai sc6110a tubing, made by italian builder £290. Typical "big
brand" equivalent frame, upwards of £7/800?

Now I know the paint jobs aren't particulalrly awe inspiring (but they
do the job), and I am almost certain they won't be hand crafted (are
any alu frames??) but can the big italian brands etc really be that
much better quality to warrant the much higher price tag?

I have never ridden an alu frame before (always steel so far), but the
ribble frames seem to come out well in some recent cycling weekly
tests, and I am seriously considering ribble as my first foray in to
alu frames. (after all, if I don't like it, at least I haven't spent a
grand on a de rosa, colnago, casati, basso etc etc).

Anyone on here bought frames from ribble that can offer opinions on
quality etc?

PS. dont want to open a can of worms about service from ribble- I know
there are a wide range of experiences- some good, some bad. Just after
opinions on the qaulity of their frames, particularly the deddaciai alu
models.

I have a Ribble winter bike made with a 7005 aluminium frame and carbon
forks. It's fantastic value for the money with a very nice ride and
handling capabilities. Comparing it to a Altec2+ Columbus frame on my
summer bike (a Dave Hinde), the bike doesn't leap forward in the same and
the ride is much less harsh. I've recommended it to my friends (who have
bought them) and everyone is very happy so far.

I can't resist the temptation to pick up the can-opener. Ribble's lead-time
could be improved so be sure to plan ahead if you buy. Mine took 2 months
to arrive (2 years ago) and my brother-in-law waited over a month (he took
delivery a just few weeks ago).

darrenf <[email hidden]> wrote:

: So, what is the reason for the massive price difference? Are the big
: brands just ripping us off? Could it be massive LBS mark up?

a) You pay for the name
b) You pay for the finish (better paint etc does cost a little more)
c) Little touches (nice headtube badges etc) do add to the cost a bit
d) Yup, there is mark up
e) At least some of the big boys do some product design of their own
(eg pinerallo) rather than just ordering in a crateload from Tawian.
Lots don't mind.
f) Those final few grams of lightness add a lot to the cost. Thinner tubes
need much higher quality control.

So, mainly a) with a bit of the rest.

Someone asked me yesterday why a Litespeed Tuscany was several hundred pounds
more expensive than an Airborne Zepplinn. I couldn't come up with a decent
reason for that apart from a).

Arthur

--
Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
"Blogs are neither necessary nor sufficient for evil to triumph.
They're just what we call an enabling technology" - Danny O'Brien

darrenf said:

Thanks for your replies. No bad reports then🙂

I will be paying their shop a visit tomorrow as I will be over that
way anyway and I want to have a good look at their bikes/frames
before I buy. Apparently, they have quite a few complete bikes in the
shop.

Good, don't mail-order from them. They can't even despatch correct inner
tubes! Not being one to hold life-long grudges, I thought I'd give Ribble
another chance. I order Michelin Ultralight, standard ones received.

~PB

x-no-archive: yes

darrenf said:

Hi

I have been researching frames as I am looking to buy a new one.

Basically, Ribble frames seem much cheaper than the vast majority of
other manufacturers, be they italian, US big brand names etc.

eg deddaciai sc6110a tubing, made by italian builder £290. Typical "big
brand" equivalent frame, upwards of £7/800?

If any one has bought one of their winter frames how did How did you
install "Star Fangled Nut". Did you have a TNS-1 or get the local bike
shop to do it.

Thanks

Peter

Quoted message said:

Now I know the paint jobs aren't particulalrly awe inspiring (but they
do the job), and I am almost certain they won't be hand crafted (are
any alu frames??) but can the big italian brands etc really be that
much better quality to warrant the much higher price tag?

I have never ridden an alu frame before (always steel so far), but the
ribble frames seem to come out well in some recent cycling weekly
tests, and I am seriously considering ribble as my first foray in to
alu frames. (after all, if I don't like it, at least I haven't spent a
grand on a de rosa, colnago, casati, basso etc etc).

Anyone on here bought frames from ribble that can offer opinions on
quality etc?

PS. dont want to open a can of worms about service from ribble- I know
there are a wide range of experiences- some good, some bad. Just after
opinions on the qaulity of their frames, particularly the deddaciai alu
models.

"Peter Simons" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

If any one has bought one of their winter frames how did How did you
install "Star Fangled Nut". Did you have a TNS-1 or get the local bike
shop to do it.

Thanks

Peter

just screwed the bolt into it and tapped it in with a hammer, not too much
at a time, until I could tighten the stem against the headset. If you can
find a longer bolt to tap you could get it more square; don't remember it
being a very hard job.

"Peter Simons" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

x-no-archive: yes

Quoted message said:

If any one has bought one of their winter frames how did How did you
install "Star Fangled Nut". Did you have a TNS-1 or get the local bike
shop to do it.

Thanks

Peter

Peter

I supported the fork crown on a long block of wood and used a steel tube
roughly same size as the star centre hole and hit this with a hammer. I
found tapping gently got nowhere and had to apply a bit of welly to get it
started. I assumed that the double star would ensure that it went in
straight, but it didn't and I had to adjust it by tapping on the edges of
the star. Fortunately the bolt worked OK even though the finished position
still wasn't entirely square. I considered screwing in the bolt and hitting
that, but was afraid of stripping the threads. I'm pleased that this is one
of those jobs that doesn't come along too often!

Cycling Plus covered this job not that long ago in one of their workshop
articles but inserting the washer wasn't explained in any detail. I'd be
interested to know if anybody else can provide an easier way to do it!

John Miller

John Miller said:

"Peter Simons" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

x-no-archive: yes

Quoted message said:

If any one has bought one of their winter frames how did How did

you

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

install "Star Fangled Nut". Did you have a TNS-1 or get the local

bike

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

shop to do it.

Thanks

Peter

Peter

I supported the fork crown on a long block of wood and used a steel

tube

Quoted message said:

roughly same size as the star centre hole and hit this with a hammer.

I

Quoted message said:

found tapping gently got nowhere and had to apply a bit of welly to

get it

Quoted message said:

started. I assumed that the double star would ensure that it went in
straight, but it didn't and I had to adjust it by tapping on the

edges of

Quoted message said:

the star. Fortunately the bolt worked OK even though the finished

position

Quoted message said:

still wasn't entirely square. I considered screwing in the bolt and

hitting

Quoted message said:

that, but was afraid of stripping the threads. I'm pleased that this

is one

Quoted message said:

of those jobs that doesn't come along too often!

Cycling Plus covered this job not that long ago in one of their

workshop

Quoted message said:

articles but inserting the washer wasn't explained in any detail.

I'd be

Quoted message said:

interested to know if anybody else can provide an easier way to do

it!

an old philips screwdriver with a handle small enough to slide in the
steerer and a shaft just smaller than the thread would also do it and
keep it fairly square.

"John Miller" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I supported the fork crown on a long block of wood and used a steel tube
roughly same size as the star centre hole and hit this with a hammer. I
found tapping gently got nowhere and had to apply a bit of welly to get it
started. I assumed that the double star would ensure that it went in
straight, but it didn't and I had to adjust it by tapping on the edges of
the star. Fortunately the bolt worked OK even though the finished position
still wasn't entirely square. I considered screwing in the bolt and hitting
that, but was afraid of stripping the threads. I'm pleased that this is one
of those jobs that doesn't come along too often!

As someone about to build up their first frame with a threadless fork
column/headset combo, it all sounds a bit daunting! I've opted for a
TA top cap which features an expanding plug (designed for carbon
steerer tubes but fine for alloy & Cr-Mo ones too) - have I saved
myself a difficult task compared with the star-washer type (says he,
with fingers crossed)? Thanks in advance for feedback.

Regards,
David E. Belcher

in message <[email hidden]>, Peter Simons

(') said:

x-no-archive: yes

darrenf said:

Hi

I have been researching frames as I am looking to buy a new one.

Basically, Ribble frames seem much cheaper than the vast majority of
other manufacturers, be they italian, US big brand names etc.

eg deddaciai sc6110a tubing, made by italian builder £290. Typical
"big brand" equivalent frame, upwards of £7/800?

If any one has bought one of their winter frames how did How did you
install "Star Fangled Nut". Did you have a TNS-1 or get the local
bike shop to do it.

With the fork out of the frame and in a vice, drive the star fangled bit
down the steerer tube firmly using a bit of stick and a mallet, until
the thing is about 2 centimetres down - in any case not more than half
a centimetre /less/ than the length of the bolt that comes with it. Do
not do this with the fork in the frame or you will knacker your headset
bearings (yes, the voice of experience).

It takes a surprising amount of force to drive the star fangled thing
down. Do not do it with the fork blades resting on the floor as you may
damage the blades or dropouts. Clamp the crown of the fork in a vice,
using a piece of leather or wooden jaws on the vice to protect the
paintwork.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

I shall continue to be an impossible person so long as those
who are now possible remain possible -- Michael Bakunin

Simon Brooke vaguely muttered something like ...

Quoted message said:

in message <[email hidden]>, Peter Simons

(') said:

x-no-archive: yes

darrenf said:

Hi

I have been researching frames as I am looking to buy a new one.

Basically, Ribble frames seem much cheaper than the vast majority of
other manufacturers, be they italian, US big brand names etc.

eg deddaciai sc6110a tubing, made by italian builder £290. Typical
"big brand" equivalent frame, upwards of £7/800?

If any one has bought one of their winter frames how did How did you
install "Star Fangled Nut". Did you have a TNS-1 or get the local
bike shop to do it.

With the fork out of the frame and in a vice, drive the star fangled bit
down the steerer tube firmly using a bit of stick and a mallet, until
the thing is about 2 centimetres down - in any case not more than half
a centimetre /less/ than the length of the bolt that comes with it. Do
not do this with the fork in the frame or you will knacker your headset
bearings (yes, the voice of experience).

It takes a surprising amount of force to drive the star fangled thing
down. Do not do it with the fork blades resting on the floor as you may
damage the blades or dropouts. Clamp the crown of the fork in a vice,
using a piece of leather or wooden jaws on the vice to protect the
paintwork.

Providing you have a long enough bolt, and a large enough washer, it's
easier and safer to use a washer between the fork blades, with the long nut
used to 'pull' the star-fangled nut through. Much more precise and far
easier to keep the nut in the correct orientation so that the bolt it's
normally used with can actually tighten freely onto it.

--
Paul ...
(8(|) Homer Rules !!!
"A [censored] is a [censored], no matter what mode of transport they're using."

David E. Belcher <[email hidden]> wrote:

: TA top cap which features an expanding plug (designed for carbon
: steerer tubes but fine for alloy & Cr-Mo ones too) - have I saved
: myself a difficult task compared with the star-washer type (says he,

Yes. They make it all much easier.

Arthur

--
Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
"Blogs are neither necessary nor sufficient for evil to triumph.
They're just what we call an enabling technology" - Danny O'Brien

Star nuts can be much more difficult to fit in *alloy* 1" forks as the
internal diameter is smaller. It's seems the same nuts are usually
supplied for both steel & Al and I suppose the nut is supposed to deform
more. I have seen star nuts described as being specifically for alloy
steerers, however.

An expander device or "bung" can be used instead, in any case.

~PB

David E. Belcher said:

As someone about to build up their first frame with a threadless fork
column/headset combo, it all sounds a bit daunting! I've opted for a
TA top cap which features an expanding plug (designed for carbon
steerer tubes but fine for alloy & Cr-Mo ones too) - have I saved
myself a difficult task compared with the star-washer type (says he,
with fingers crossed)?

Yes indeed, and you could even save some weight if you take it out after
adjusting the headset (as it or a star nut & top bolt doesn't actually do
anything afterwards), if you felt like it.

~PB