Can't 'snap' chain!

MSA said:

Help!

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new chain.

I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand! I have
a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no problem.

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the plates
slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

So far I have spent 50 minutes trying to split it, I have cuts on my
thumb and forefinger!

Any suggestions? As I said before I have had 'split links' for many
years, I thought I had the knack. I have tried everything I can think
of.

Thanks in advance.

Dear Mark,

Assuming that you have a pair of L-shaped halves like an
SRAM link, two things may help.

1) Clean the reluctant link. A thin coating of crud or bit
of grit may be the problem.

2) Try a pair of needlenose pliers to save your fingers and
increase your leverage enough to squeeze things together
hard enough to overcome whatever's defying you.

Good luck,

Carl Fogel

[email hidden said:

"]On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 20:49:19 -0000, MSA

Quoted message said:

Help!

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new chain.

I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand! I have
a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no problem.

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the plates
slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

So far I have spent 50 minutes trying to split it, I have cuts on my
thumb and forefinger!

Any suggestions? As I said before I have had 'split links' for many
years, I thought I had the knack. I have tried everything I can think
of.

Thanks in advance.

Dear Mark,

Assuming that you have a pair of L-shaped halves like an
SRAM link, two things may help.

1) Clean the reluctant link. A thin coating of crud or bit
of grit may be the problem.

2) Try a pair of needlenose pliers to save your fingers and
increase your leverage enough to squeeze things together
hard enough to overcome whatever's defying you.

Good luck,

Carl Fogel

3) If the above don't work, you could always assume the link is no longer a master link, get out the chain break and do it the way we did before reliable master links were in vogue. You could add a new master link if you desire.

On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 20:49:19 -0000, MSA <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Help!

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new chain.

I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand! I have
a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no problem.

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the plates
slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

So far I have spent 50 minutes trying to split it, I have cuts on my
thumb and forefinger!

Any suggestions? As I said before I have had 'split links' for many
years, I thought I had the knack. I have tried everything I can think
of.

Thanks in advance.

Might be a Taya Connector. See
http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/en-gb/dept_274.html

To take a Taya Connector apart, flex the chain to bring the tips of
the pins closer together, then release the plate. I find the plate
easily releases one pin at a time, so I don't try to flex it any
farther than that.

I think the Taya is sold as a one-time use connector, but I've re-used
mine a few times.

In article <[email hidden]>, meb.1fbj5y@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com says...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

MSA said:

Help!

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new chain.

I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand! I

have

Quoted message said:

a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no problem.

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the

plates

Quoted message said:

slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

So far I have spent 50 minutes trying to split it, I have cuts on my
thumb and forefinger!

Any suggestions? As I said before I have had 'split links' for many
years, I thought I had the knack. I have tried everything I can

think

Quoted message said:

of.

Thanks in advance.

Dear Mark,

Assuming that you have a pair of L-shaped halves like an
SRAM link, two things may help.

1) Clean the reluctant link. A thin coating of crud or bit
of grit may be the problem.

2) Try a pair of needlenose pliers to save your fingers and
increase your leverage enough to squeeze things together
hard enough to overcome whatever's defying you.

Good luck,

Carl Fogel

3) If the above don't work, you could always assume the link is no
longer a master link, get out the chain break and do it the way we did
before reliable master links were in vogue. You could add a new master
link if you desire.

I thought about that. I did try to break the chain using the normal
method but it seemed very very hard to do...I wasn't sure if it was
meant to come apart like that? Thinking about it though, you must be
able to take it apart in the normal way...otherwise you wouldn't be ablt
to adjust the length when new.

I think I will try again tomorrow after my ride (rain forecast!). I
have a spare SRAM connector so I will try to rejoin with that.

Drivetrain is 10 speed Campagnolo by the way...Veloce.

Thanks.
--
Mark (MSA)
This post is packaged by intellectual weight, not volume. Some settling
of contents may have occurred during transmission

In article <[email hidden]>, dianne_1234
@NOSPAMyahoo.com says...

Quoted message said:

Might be a Taya Connector. See
http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/en-gb/dept_274.html

To take a Taya Connector apart, flex the chain to bring the tips of
the pins closer together, then release the plate. I find the plate
easily releases one pin at a time, so I don't try to flex it any
farther than that.

I think the Taya is sold as a one-time use connector, but I've re-used
mine a few times.

Nope, not that one. It's identical to a SRAM but with no markings a
such. Drivetrain is 10spd Campag Veloce.

Thank you.
--
Mark (MSA)
This post is packaged by intellectual weight, not volume. Some settling
of contents may have occurred during transmission

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

OK, a small update here. On closer inspection of the chain I can see
that every link is marked with the initials LG. On the other side of
the chain it says '10'. The 'snaplink' however has no id but it does
say '10'.

Well I've googled LG and found nothing?

Anyone heard of that?

--
Mark (MSA)
This post is packaged by intellectual weight, not volume. Some settling
of contents may have occurred during transmission

On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 20:49:19 -0000, MSA <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the plates
slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

The KMC link is 1x use and, once snapped together, has to be cut to
remove. The sideplates on a KMC chain have a shape similar to a
letter "S" on its side or perhaps a wave shape.

Quoted message said:

2) Try a pair of needlenose pliers to save your fingers and
increase your leverage enough to squeeze things together
hard enough to overcome whatever's defying you.

If you can't find a thin enough pair of needle nose pliers, bend an old
spoke into a V shape.

MSA <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Help!

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new chain.

I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand! I have
a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no problem.

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the plates
slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

So far I have spent 50 minutes trying to split it, I have cuts on my
thumb and forefinger!

Any suggestions? As I said before I have had 'split links' for many
years, I thought I had the knack. I have tried everything I can think
of.

Thanks in advance.

Could be you have a SuperLink?:
lickbike.comproductpage.aspxOpen ↗
from which the PowerLink is licensed. There is a difference in the
action, and that is because each half of the SuperLink have an
extended tab on one end to prevent the link from seperating under
normal use. To open this link, you need to set the link perpendicular
to the adjacent links, whereby the two halves can easily slide apart.
They are superior to the SRAM links in this regard, since they don't
have to be 'squeezed' together. The fit of the SRAM links is such
that a force must be applied to get them to close, and a pliers used
to open them.

Robin Hubert

Robin Hubert says...

Quoted message said:

Could be you have a SuperLink?:
http://www.lickbike.com/productpage.aspx?PART_NUM_SUB='0338-07'
from which the PowerLink is licensed. There is a difference in the
action, and that is because each half of the SuperLink have an
extended tab on one end to prevent the link from seperating under
normal use. To open this link, you need to set the link perpendicular
to the adjacent links, whereby the two halves can easily slide apart.
They are superior to the SRAM links in this regard, since they don't
have to be 'squeezed' together. The fit of the SRAM links is such
that a force must be applied to get them to close, and a pliers used
to open them.

Robin Hubert

I have a couple of these. They have Superlink engraved around the rivet
circle. Doesn't sound like what he has.

On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 20:49:19 -0000, MSA <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Help!

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new chain.

I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand! I have
a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no problem.

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the plates
slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

So far I have spent 50 minutes trying to split it, I have cuts on my
thumb and forefinger!

Any suggestions? As I said before I have had 'split links' for many
years, I thought I had the knack. I have tried everything I can think
of.

I believe that KMC makes a type of snaplink that doesn't unsnap. You
may have been afflicted with one of those. I bought a couple of them
cheap before I found out what they were; they have been riding around
in the spares bag for an emergency fix since then, but I don't use
them if I can avoid it.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

MSA says...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

OK, a small update here. On closer inspection of the chain I can see
that every link is marked with the initials LG. On the other side of
the chain it says '10'. The 'snaplink' however has no id but it does
say '10'.

Well I've googled LG and found nothing?

Anyone heard of that?

The LG brings to mind the HG and IG stamped on Shimano chains, but I
would think a Campy drivetrain would have the Campy chain stamped C10. I
poked around a little, and I couldn't find what you describe. Doesn't
look like IRD, KMC, Shimano, Campy, Mavic or Wipperman. Not sure what
else is out there.

In article <[email hidden]>, rault00
@earthWEEDSlink.net says...

Quoted message said:

On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 20:49:19 -0000, MSA <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Help!

Thanks for every ones input. None of the web pages provided show the
link I have. I spoke to the shop where I bought the bike and while they
couldn't offer advice on getting it apart, they did tell me the chain
was made by Everest.

Spent another 30 minutes trying today..no luck!

I have resorted to cleaning the chain in situ. When it's due for
replacement I will by a Connexe.

Thanks again.

Quoted message said:

--
Mark (MSA)
This post is packaged by intellectual weight, not volume. Some settling
of contents may have occurred during transmission

Mark SA? said:

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new chain.

Quoted message said:

I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand! I
have a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no problem.

Quoted message said:

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the
plates slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

Forget about the 'by hand" option and I believe the link you are
working with is the same as SRAM and would work the same except that
from my experience, a little road grit between the side plates
prevents sufficient compression as you describe. I have had to use
pliers diagonally across the link, heel-to-heel and apply pressure.

This is enough to crunch the grit and disengage the link. I can't
angle the ASCII arrows below but they are to point diagonally across
the link. This worked nicely for me when I was using the PowerLink.
I don't use these links any more with my SRAM chains and just push the
pin out and back in to connect chain ends as we always did. If it
takes a tool then I might as well not use special links.

-> -|--------
| |
--------|- <-

Jobst Brandt
[email hidden]

Quoted message said:

On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 20:49:19 -0000, MSA <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new chain.
I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand! I have
a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no problem.
The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the plates
slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.
So far I have spent 50 minutes trying to split it, I have cuts on my
thumb and forefinger!
Any suggestions? As I said before I have had 'split links' for many
years, I thought I had the knack. I have tried everything I can think
of.

Werehatrack said:

I believe that KMC makes a type of snaplink that doesn't unsnap. You
may have been afflicted with one of those. I bought a couple of them
cheap before I found out what they were; they have been riding around
in the spares bag for an emergency fix since then, but I don't use
them if I can avoid it.

We still don't actually know what chain he has. KMC Ten
chains are clearly marked "KMC 10" Campagnolo chain is
marked "C10" WIppermann chain is marked "Connex". Premium
chain is generally better marked -and more verbose- than
standard chain. All the products I'm familiar with for ten
speed systems are unambiguously clear. The OP mentioned "LG"
which has no meaning to me

I wonder if he has a Shimano IG chain with some aftermarket
link?? I really don't know what fits the description .

BTW KMC makes both a long oval slot link ("Missing Link"😉
and a more standard keyhole punch model ("Missing Link
Two"😉. They admonish 'one use' and the older model probably
was. The newer type Two seems very reuseable, or at least I
rejoin them without difficulty, manufacturer warning
notwithstanding.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Jobst Brandt said:

Mark SA? said:

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new chain.

Quoted message said:

I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand! I
have a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no problem.

Quoted message said:

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap link'
looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together the
plates slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

Forget about the 'by hand" option and I believe the link you are
working with is the same as SRAM and would work the same except that
from my experience, a little road grit between the side plates
prevents sufficient compression as you describe. I have had to use
pliers diagonally across the link, heel-to-heel and apply pressure.

This is enough to crunch the grit and disengage the link. I can't
angle the ASCII arrows below but they are to point diagonally across
the link. This worked nicely for me when I was using the PowerLink.
I don't use these links any more with my SRAM chains and just push the
pin out and back in to connect chain ends as we always did. If it
takes a tool then I might as well not use special links.

-> -|--------
| |
--------|- <-

Jobst,

Are you still using a 6-speed freewheel with a (presumably) wide chain?
I have been able to reuse pins in 7/8 speed chains with no problem, but
have found it impossible to even get the chain back together with the
same pin on some 9-speed chains. In particular, 9-speed Shimano chains
require either a special Shimano pin or a reusable link from another
manufacturer.

--
Tom Sherman

Tom Sherman said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

For the life of me I cannot get apart the snap link on my new
chain.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I have a Connexe Wipperman chain, I can open that with one hand!
I have a SRAM Powerlink chain on the other bike...again no
problem.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

The chain on my new bike has no name on it, however the 'snap
link' looks exactly like the SRAM. When I push the links together
the plates slide in but not enough for me to get the chain apart.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Forget about the 'by hand" option and I believe the link you are
working with is the same as SRAM and would work the same except
that from my experience, a little road grit between the side plates
prevents sufficient compression as you describe. I have had to use
pliers diagonally across the link, heel-to-heel and apply pressure.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

This is enough to crunch the grit and disengage the link. I can't
angle the ASCII arrows below but they are to point diagonally
across the link. This worked nicely for me when I was using the
PowerLink. I don't use these links any more with my SRAM chains
and just push the pin out and back in to connect chain ends as we
always did. If it takes a tool then I might as well not use
special links.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

-> -|--------
| |
--------|- <-

Quoted message said:

Are you still using a 6-speed freewheel with a (presumably) wide
chain?

I don't know what you call a wide chain but I am using what was
prescribed for 7/8-speed clusters. The SRAM pins barely protrude and
they go in and out nicely with chain pliers.

Quoted message said:

I have been able to reuse pins in 7/8 speed chains with no problem,
but have found it impossible to even get the chain back together
with the same pin on some 9-speed chains. In particular, 9-speed
Shimano chains require either a special Shimano pin or a reusable
link from another manufacturer.

I haven't progressed to that unwieldy phase yet. I get along fine
with a 13..24t cluster with two CW's. I don't believe I need to slice
the gears any finer gradation than I have. When I bought the big box
of SRAM chain, it came with PowerLinks. I still have plenty of these
however, my experience with them was not what I call convenience.

In fact, on the first chain with which I used a PoerLink link I had
worn sprockets that allowed the chain to skip under load. After about
50 miles of use, one of the chain skips occurred at exactly the right
moment so that the link landed just before the cluster, where it was
compressed by chain momentum and fell out. I found the two parts
lying on the road, reconnected the chain and rode it until the chain
was worn out. Between that and not being able to separate a dirty
chain manually, I decided against PowerLink.

Jobst Brandt
[email hidden]

A Muzi said:

BTW KMC makes both a long oval slot link ("Missing Link"😉
and a more standard keyhole punch model ("Missing Link
Two"😉. They admonish 'one use' and the older model probably
was. The newer type Two seems very reuseable, or at least I
rejoin them without difficulty, manufacturer warning
notwithstanding.

I've been using a KMC one for awile now with no problems. It cost only $2.25 as
well, instead of the $5-6 most shops charge for a Powerlink/Superlink, or a
couple of extra Shimano self-peening pins.

However, I'm not too thrilled with KMC chains. They have too many loose and
tight links. It takes ages to get all the tight links moving freely, and you
can never be sure when one of the loose ones will give way. I hadn't had a
chain break in years until I started using a KMC. After three chain breaks, I
finally got disgusted and bought a Shimano, and a KMC link. KMC chains may be
cheap but no bargain.

Matt O.

Quoted message said:

A Muzi said:

BTW KMC makes both a long oval slot link ("Missing Link"😉
and a more standard keyhole punch model ("Missing Link
Two"😉. They admonish 'one use' and the older model probably
was. The newer type Two seems very reuseable, or at least I
rejoin them without difficulty, manufacturer warning
notwithstanding.

Matt O'Toole said:

I've been using a KMC one for awile now with no problems. It cost only $2.25 as
well, instead of the $5-6 most shops charge for a Powerlink/Superlink, or a
couple of extra Shimano self-peening pins.

However, I'm not too thrilled with KMC chains. They have too many loose and
tight links. It takes ages to get all the tight links moving freely, and you
can never be sure when one of the loose ones will give way. I hadn't had a
chain break in years until I started using a KMC. After three chain breaks, I
finally got disgusted and bought a Shimano, and a KMC link. KMC chains may be
cheap but no bargain.

KMC makes a very wide range of products. Our experience with
their premium chain is very positive. I agree with you that
some of their lower cost products are of dubious quality.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971