On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 21:57:23 +0000, Peewiglet <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:I'm just wondering whether you've walked along the Lairig Ghru? I'm
thinking of doing it next year, but I've not quite been able to get a
good idea, yet, (from books and Google), of what it's actually like.
I did it last August (2003). I can't remember if I posted a TR, but I
don't think so ... so here goes! (Huge chunks of detail will be
missed out but I hope you get the gist).
I started at Aviemore and stayed at the Youth Hostel. This was August
and the weather was glorious. I was planning a shorts and T-shirt
week but I had my fleece and waterproofs just in case.
If I remember right, you go through the Rothiemurchus forest to get to
the Lairig Ghru. This was a pleasant enough walk. A good place to
get into your stride and to get used to the weight on your back. I
kept tripping over tree roots .... but that's just me. The weather
was still lovely and I'd not been bitten ...... yet.
Once I got to the Lairig Ghru proper, things changed. There weren't
many people about but I noticed that the occasional walker I saw
coming the other way was in full foul weather gear and soaking wet. I
was still in shorts and t-shirt. Then it started to rain. Then it
got really really windy and rained very very heavily! There was one
section where I had to cross a boulder field and I found it very
tricky. The wind was so strong that I couldn't keep my balance when I
lifted each foot. At one point I slipped or got blown over and fell
quite heavily and landed with my arm down the gap between some
boulders. I felt quite shaken but there was no permanent damage,
thankfully.
I camped that night in sight of the bothy. My memory fails me, but
everyone knows which one I mean .... come on someone! I was on the
other side of the pass and doubt that I was visible from the bothy
(because I was camped in some tall tufty grass) but I could watch the
few visitors coming and going.
That was the windiest night I've ever used the Akto. It kept bending
and touching my face in the night, so I slept with my rucksack packed
and my clothes on! No problems though; it really confirmed my trust
in the Akto.
Next day I completed the walk to Braemar. Well, I fib ..... someone
gave me a lift from about half way between Linn of Dee and Braemar.
That road is *so* boring!
I camped, that night, at a Camping and Caravan Club (I think) site.
Flipping expensive but they had hot showers and coin-op spin dryer for
me to wash and dry my clothes. Dinner was from the chip shop. Large
bag of chips and a can of Irn Bru. Best dinner ever .... I was
ravenous!
Next day, I went to the Tourist Information Centre with the idea that
I would somehow get public transport back to Aviemore. No chance.
There are two types of buses: Ones that go to Aberdeen, and Postbuses.
I decided to get the Postbus to Linn of Dee and then walk the Lairig
Ghru in the other direction. I had been warned that the postbuses
aren't always ontime and don't always stop. I'm sure I saw the bus
(well, it was a Royal Mail van which drove past at about the expected
time) but the blighter did a good job of completely ignoring me .....
so I started walking. Luckily, after less than half a mile a
campervan pulled up and the occupants offered me a lift. They were
the temporary wardens for one of the SYHA hostels. They were keen
walkers and could obviously tell I needed a bit of support.
They dropped me off at Linn of Dee and I started walking again. I was
well into my stride by now and really enjoying the walking. Yes, I'd
been tired and wet but I felt that I had achieved something and was
having a good time.
I camped on the Lairig Ghru again that night. The wind had gone .....
and the blasted midgies were all out on force. I counted 95 bites on
my left leg. This was despite Ron Hills and Deet. NEVER will I go to
Scotland again between May and September.
I'm sure I could remember more detail if prompted but I hope that
gives you a taste.
Perhaps the most memorable part of the trip was a conversation I had
with a couple of Scottish lads on the platform of Aviemore station.
They had travelled from Glasgow (I think) to Braemar and then walked
the Lairig Ghru, in one direction, in one day with day-packs. One of
the lads had his entire leg, from groin to foot, in plaster. I
assumed that he'd had an accident on the LG but no ...... he'd fallen
over taking his trousers off in the Youth Hostel! (By the way, they
both thought I was barmy doing the LG both ways.)
Judith