[Emailed as well as posted]
SteveO said:'lo all,
Now, bearing in mind that I'm not a wa*ker an all that, so this is
just research; anyone any experience of the West Highland Way they'd
care to share?
Wasn't sure if this "research" was going to be necessary so hesitated
earlier, but and opinions, TR's, stuff would be greatly appreciated.
Well, I did it in 2001. I meant to write it up afterwards but I
didn't, so my memories now are not detailed. However, here's what
remains 🙂
It's 95 miles, running from Milngavie (pronounced Mullguy) to Fort
William. I did it in 7 days, as follows.
Milngavie to Drymen (14 miles)
Drymen to Rowardennan (14.5 miles)
Rowardennan to Inverarnan (17.5 miles)
Inverarnan to Tyndrum (16 miles)
Tyndrum to Kingshouse (20 miles)
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven (13 miles)
Kinlochleven to Fort William (11 miles)
Some of those days are quite long, but I was B&Bing so not carrying a
tent etc, and none of them wiped me out. I did the walk with my
sister, who's done much less walking than me and has a refreshingly
simple approach to fatigue. She walked as far as she wanted to go each
day, and then she called a taxi :-) (She didn't do the Tyndrum to
Kingshead stretch at all.)
I thought the walk was noticeably less demanding, when taken as a
whole, than the Coast to Coast, but naturally some parts were harder
than others. I thought the scenery was breathtaking - very impressive!
I was also struck by how extremely friendly almost all the pubs and
B&Bs were along the way. I did the walk in September, and for most of
the time the midgies weren't a problem. However, I became complacent
one sunny lunchtime and that was all it took for me to go home looking
as though I had chicken pox :-( Still, the fantastically varied and
beautiful fungi in the woods along the way almost made up for it 🙂
I thought the walk was well worth doing, and would recommend it
enthusiastically. It's great to be able to get in such a good walk
fairly comfortably in the space of a week. I think I used the
National Trail Guide, but I can't see it now on the shelf.
I can no longer remember the names of the B&Bs etc that I stayed in,
but I do remember how much I enjoyed arriving at The King's House
Hotel at Kingshouse after a 20 mile walk, to be greeted by my sister
with a pot of tea and cream cakes in front of a blazing fire: it was
bliss, and then there was pool and good bar food later on. Highly
recommended 🙂
Having said all of that, there's one Top Tip I wish I'd had before I
did the walk, and that's to avoid The Drovers pub in Inverarnan
(not to be confused with Inveroran, which comes up later in the walk).
Inverarnan is a very small place. My sister and I had booked into the
B&B (thank God...) but we went over to the pub (which does
accommodation) for dinner. At the pub we were met by an ill-preserved
stuffed bear, and an extremely dusty collection of other stuffed
animals. I went to the bar to get a drink, and encountered the most
actively unfriendly bar staff - unsmiling young men in kilts - that
I've ever come across. Everything in the pub seemed dirty. If there
had been somewhere else to go we'd have gone, but there wasn't. We
heard many bad stories about the place from other people doing the
walk as well. Coincidentally, I was just discussing this last Friday
night with a woman I met at the YHA in Ambleside! She did the walk in
2002, and her experience was exactly the same as mine.
If I were you - or anyone else thinking of doing the walk - I simply
wouldn't stay at Inverarnan at all. Don't encourage them: go to Ardlui
instead.
I hope this helps - have a great time! Here are some websites that I
saved at the time, and still have in my Favourites.
http://www.west-highland-way.co.uk/
http://tinyurl.com/57auo
http://www.travel-lite-uk.com/
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~fiski/whw/whw01.html
http://www.west-highland-way.co.uk/mainFrame.htm
There used to be a mileage chart on the first of those pages. Maybe
it's still there, but if so then they've moved it. It's well worth
looking for, though: I used it to decide how to break up the walk.
Best wishes,
--
Peewiglet