155mmCranks

I believe Legs Larry has stated that you may acquire shorter cranks via St.Johns Cycle in the U.K.,
look under "Thorn" brand cranks.
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"Jim V." <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:3ec99d3b$1_3@newsfeed...

Quoted message said:

I'm looking for a place to get 155mm cranks for my Vision R50. The Hostel Shop doesn't carry them
in stock and has to order them, unknown time to deliver. Any ideas? If they work out for me, I
will probably switch to

them

Quoted message said:

on the Screamer also.

Jim Vincent

Vision R50 - RANS Screamer

"Jim V." <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<3ec99d3b$1_3@newsfeed>...

Quoted message said:

I'm looking for a place to get 155mm cranks for my Vision R50. The Hostel Shop doesn't carry them
in stock and has to order them, unknown time to deliver. Any ideas? If they work out for me, I
will probably switch to them on the Screamer also.

Jim Vincent

Vision R50 - RANS Screamer

Hostel Shoppe < does> have those bolt-on crank arm shorteners I have them on my TT, and the highest
gearing (less RPMs) is awesome after using lower and longer 'stock' crank arms for many years. Best
addition I have found yet! Has 4 length adjustments. Why mess with the whole crank?

Chris Jordan

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Jim V.
I'm looking for a place to get 155mm cranks for my Vision R50. The Hostel Shop doesn't carry them in
stock and has to order them, unknown time to deliver. Any ideas? If they work out for me, I will
probably switch to them on the Screamer also.

Jim Vincent

Vision R50 - RANS Screamer

I had a local df frame builder redrill and tap my 175mm cranks to 152mm. Work great. A machine shop should be able to do the job, I've heard charges range from $30-60. This way you don't need to mess with a new bb and installation, saves $. But to leave enough metal around the new hole you probably shouldn't retap closer than 20mm difference to the original hole. So if your cranks are 175mm then 155mm would be possible. What type of cranks? Solid arms? Mine are Shimano hollowtechs, and there was enough non-hollow material to do them. Don

We carry the 155 arms good for a double ring setup in 110 ring pattern

J Gaerlan - Gaerlan Custom Cycles gaerlan.comgaerlan.comOpen ↗ Framebuilding,Recumbent and Bike
Parts eStore
(415)362-3866: (415)677-8943 fax [email hidden]

I saw some of these on E-bay today.

Have you checked there?

Lewis.

........................

"Jim V." <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<3ec99d3b$1_3@newsfeed>...

Quoted message said:

I'm looking for a place to get 155mm cranks for my Vision R50. The Hostel Shop doesn't carry them
in stock and has to order them, unknown time to deliver. Any ideas? If they work out for me, I
will probably switch to them on the Screamer also.

Jim Vincent

Vision R50 - RANS Screamer

I'll give the shorteners a look. I was really hoping to have a triple ring set-up. I don't do hills
well, and I could really use a "granny". I think drilling will be my last resort.

Thanks, Jim Vincent Vision R50 - RANS Screamer

Do a search on a.r.b.r., several sources have been cited.

I am using some BMX cranks by Redline. 155mm. I am about to talk to a machinist about drilling
and tapping it for my granny chain ring, as it has only two on there. I paid $25 total for mine
from eBay.

I wouldn't go back. The shorter crank made a dramatic positive difference for me.

GeoB

Chris, I'm looking at getting some of these but was wondering how they fit on a set of Ultegra
cranks? I saw they have 2 sizes and I haven't measured my cranks yet. Is there a secure mount to the
cranks so you don't get any play in the adapters?

Steve

[email hidden] (GeoB) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I am using some BMX cranks by Redline. 155mm.

I've been curious about those. Is there room between the spider and the crank arm to use 2
chainrings and a derailleur? I like a low Q factor, which is the weak point on the Doteks.

Quoted message said:

I am about to talk to a machinist about drilling and tapping it for my granny chain ring, as it
has only two on there.

If that doesn't work out, contact me. I just had a machinist CNC me a drilling plate, with 58, 74
and 110 BCD bolt circles and a center hole for a BB spindle. I made an adaptor last night, which
worked out perfectly. See bikesmithdesign.comDrillGuide.jpgOpen ↗

I'll be doing some crank arms next week. If they work out well, I may buy a batch of Doteks and
re-sell them as triples. BTW the 1st box of Doteks that QBP sold as BMX cranks accidentally came
drilled as triples.

Quoted message said:

I paid $25 total for mine from eBay.

Very good deal!

Quoted message said:

I wouldn't go back. The shorter crank made a dramatic positive difference for me.

Same here, I don't know of anyone who has gone back.

[email hidden] (Steve) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Chris, I'm looking at getting some of these but was wondering how they fit on a set of
Ultegra cranks?

I am not positive, but they (Tandem East) fit very tightly on my squarish shaped Deores (or whatever
they are on WizWheelz!!); they have ears and do not move at all. The shorteners were under $100., so
when I ordered I had no idea what they would fit on.

I saw they have 2 sizes and I haven't

Quoted message said:

measured my cranks yet.

I just had a very lucky guess!

Is there a secure mount to the cranks so you

Quoted message said:

don't get any play in the adapters?

Very secure and large allen-bolt- same size as the pedals that has a secure lip molded in. No play
at all in mine- and I overpower an electric motor; I am very hard on the chain; the chain is giving
way first and not the shortener.

Chris J.

Quoted message said:

Steve

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I am using some BMX cranks by Redline. 155mm.

Mark Stonich:

Quoted message said:

I've been curious about those. Is there room between the spider and the crank arm to use 2
chainrings and a derailleur?

I *am* using two chainrings and a derailleur. I took my non-stock triple off to put this on, and
simply adjusted the deraileur to fit.

This is geared taller than my triple, I may eventually choose to get my C'dale Coda BMX cranks
re-drilled (170mm 44,34,22), if I could find somebody that would get the alignment straight. I been
burned so often I don't trust Mother Theresa. Maybe I should get the shorteners.

Quoted message said:

I like a low Q factor, which is the weak point on the Doteks.

Is this the distance between the cranks? Isn't that a function of the BB? Forgive my
ignorance please.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I am about to talk to a machinist about drilling and tapping it for my granny chain ring, as it
has only two on there.

If that doesn't work out, contact me.

Are you interested in drilling my spider for me? I'd like that. Where are you? Is that what your new
plate is for?

Quoted message said:

I'll be doing some crank arms next week.

Drilling them for the triple, the granny gear?

Thanks GeoB

My LBS, after much looking, found a supplier of the 155mm cranks. They are supposed to be available
in about 2-3 weeks for shipping. Also, they are good for triple chainrings and also supposed to have
130 holes. I ordered the shorteners and are giving them a try first, to see if it helps as much as I
hope. I'm a short guy, only 5'5", with a 38" X-seam. The 170's on my Vision and the 175's on the
Screamer were giving me sore knees on rides where it was hilly and I couldn't keep my RPM's up.

Jim Vincent Vision R50 - RANS Screamer

[email hidden] (GeoB) wrote in message

Quoted message said:

This is geared taller than my triple, I may eventually choose to get my C'dale Coda BMX cranks
re-drilled (170mm 44,34,22), if I could find somebody that would get the alignment straight.

That shouldn't be a problem, if there is enough material. I've been told that 175s have to be
shortened to 152, to leave enough material past the eye, so I assume 170s will have to go to 147.

Quoted message said:

I been burned so often I don't trust Mother Theresa. Maybe I should get the shorteners.

I wouldn't. I find having the pedals too far apart to be more annoying with short cranks.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I like a low Q factor, which is the weak point on the Doteks.

Is this the distance between the cranks? Isn't that a function of the BB? Forgive my
ignorance please.

"Q Factor" determines the distance between the pedals. The Dotek arms angle outward from the BB to
the pedal eyes. Great if you have an ankle to crank arm clearance problem, but most people don't.

Quoted message said:

Are you interested in drilling my spider for me? I'd like that.

I should be able to take care of you, but I want to do a few other cranks first.

A) I doubt there is any way to screw this up. But in case there is, I want to find out on my cranks,
not yours.

B) At this point I don't know how long it will take, so I can't quote a price. The drilling won't
take long, but ensuring that the tap is aligned perfectly might. I may buy a tapping machine,
which whould also be good for tapping new pedal eyes accurately.

Quoted message said:

Where are you?

Minneapolis MN

Quoted message said:

Is that what your new plate is for?

Yes.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I'll be doing some crank arms next week.

Drilling them for the triple, the granny gear?

Yes, but I may not get to it this week after all. We are moving my father-in-law into an assisted
living facility next weekend, and it's getting complicated.

[email hidden] (Mark Stonich) wrote in
:"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

B) At this point I don't know how long it will take, so I can't quote a price. The drilling won't
take long, but ensuring that the tap is aligned perfectly might. I may buy a tapping machine,
which whould also be good for tapping new pedal eyes accurately.

In case you haven't seen these:
harborfreight.comDisplayitem.tafOpen ↗ is for a drill press. I
haven't used this particular unit, but similar.
harborfreight.comDisplayitem.tafOpen ↗ is a manual machine with no
electricty. I have considered the latter, but considering that I generally tap the ends of round
stuff, I probably will just invest in a larger lathe. I would not recommend their taps.

-rorschandt- <A HREF="mailto:postmaster@[127.0.0.1]">

--
<A HREF="mailto:postmaster@[127.0.0.1]"

rorschandt <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

B) At this point I don't know how long it will take, so I can't quote a price. The drilling
won't take long, but ensuring that the tap is aligned perfectly might. I may buy a tapping
machine, which whould also be good for tapping new pedal eyes accurately.

In case you haven't seen these:
harborfreight.comDisplayitem.tafOpen ↗ is for a drill press. I
haven't used this particular unit, but similar.
harborfreight.comDisplayitem.tafOpen ↗ is a manual machine with no
electricty.

I just ordered a large manual tapper from mscdirect.commscdirect.comOpen ↗ Part # LA09491002 It is similar
in principal to the manual Harbor Freight one, but much more heavy duty, weighing 50 lbs and with a
capacity of 5/8" instead of 5/16". It's on sale this month for $109 instead of the usual $234.

Are you using the Hase or Tandems East shorteners?

thanks

"Christopher Jordan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hostel Shoppe < does> have those bolt-on crank arm shorteners I have them on my TT, and the
highest gearing (less RPMs) is awesome after using lower and longer 'stock' crank arms for many
years. Best addition I have found yet! Has 4 length adjustments. Why mess with the whole crank?

Chris Jordan