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Lighting--Update to http://bicyclelighting.com

Started by Steven M. Scharf · · Last activity · 289 posts · 6,978 views

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Road Cycling
Published
27 October 2004
Last activity
10 November 2004
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Steven M. Scharf
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  1. I have updated my bicycle lighting systems web page at
    http://bicyclelighting.com
    ..
    This is a web page that details how to construct a low-cost, high
    performance, bicycle lighting system. It also includes sections on generator
    lighting, horns, myths and facts about lighting, and a variety of other
    related information.

    Not a lot of changes in this go-round.

    Specialized and Trek Discontinue their Wide Angle LED Flashers
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    ---
    The discontinuation of the only two wide angle LED flashers (from Trek and
    Specialized) is a disappointment, though they were never widely available so
    few people were even aware they existed. These two models solved one of the
    major design problems with LED flashers, the lack of wide-angle visibility
    (on most LED flashers the LEDS point only to the rear). I've left them up on
    the web page just in case someone is able to find one somewhere.

    Cat Eye LD1000 Wide Angle LED Flasher
    --------------------------------------------
    The Cat Eye LD1000 is available from Harris Cyclery. This is the only
    flashing LED rear lamp with wide angle visibility, that is available in the
    U.S. (http://harriscyclery.net/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1578). The B&M 4DT
    provides wide angle visibility, but it is not a flasher.

    B&M 4DT Wide Angle Rear LED Light.
    -----------------------------------------
    The 4DT is not a flasher, but it does offer the wide angle of visibility.
    The good thing about these B&M rear lights is that they are available both
    in battery powered, and dynamo powered/battery backed up, versions; this
    means that dynamo aficionados finally have a decent rear lamp available. As
    far as I can tell, they are sold only by Harris Cyclery (Sheldon Brown),
    though one version is sold by Peter White Cycles.

    This is difficult to find on the Harris web site
    (http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/lighting/shimano.html)

    At least in the U.S., the 4DT should be used in conjunction with a Real Lite
    18 LED flasher, since a flashing rear light has become the defacto
    identifier of bicycles.

    Can someone explain why there is only ONE shop in the entire country that
    sells a decent LED flasher? Is the shop that Sheldon Brown is affiliated
    with the only one in the entire country that understands anything about what
    makes a rear LED light good? Or is it that the other shops feel that the
    higher-end rear lights are too expensive so no one would buy them?

    Xenon Strobes Remain the Best Option for a Rear Light in 12 volt systems
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Xenon strobes remain a better solution for 12 volt homebrew, battery
    powered, lighting systems. This is due to their much greater brightness,
    inherent wide angle of visibility, and of course their significantly lower
    cost.

    LED Headlights are Still Pretty Bad
    ------------------------------------
    LED headlights continue to disappoint in a major way, but there may be a 5W
    Luxeon LED not too far off. The problem with these higher power single LED
    lamps will continue to be the relatively short time between LED replacement
    (similar to the short life of HS3 bulbs used on dynamo systems); the
    multi-LED headlights continue to be lacking in their ability to focus into a
    single beam.

    Dymotec S12 Remains the Only Option for High Brightness lights with a Dynamo
    Powered System
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    -----------------------
    The only good dynamo system remains the very expensive Dymotec S12 with its
    12 volt/5W headlight. There are rumors of a 12 volt Schmidt SON dynamo, this
    is not available yet. There is information on the Schmidt web page regarding
    how to get increased light output at higher speeds (page is in German only,
    and is at: http://www.nabendynamo.de/12vinfo.htm). A hybrid battery/dynamo
    system would also be possible, but this may be more trouble (and expense)
    than its worth.

    HID Systems Remain Very Expensive
    --------------------------------------
    There has been little movement in the prices of HID bicycle lights. The
    least expensive model is the Cygo Z-Force with NiCad batteries, at $300, and
    the top-of-the-line Light & Motion ARC H.I.D. with Li-Ion batteries sells
    for a staggering $430. IMVAIO, the advantages of HID are elusive, when
    compared with over-voltaging standard halogen lamps.

    "For commuters, the best front light is the very bright rechargeable lamp."
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    The late Ken Kifer's statement continues to be true. Why is it "the best?"
    Simply because a high visibility lighting system makes it much safer _and_
    enjoyable to ride at night. It's especially noticeable how vehicles do not
    cut off bicycles with very bright lights (I believe this is because they don
    't actually realize that it's a bicycle, they think it is a motorcycle, or
    some other sort of motorized vehicle).

  2. Steven M. Scharf said:

    I have updated my bicycle lighting systems web page at
    http://bicyclelighting.com
    .
    This is a web page that details how to construct a low-cost, high
    performance, bicycle lighting system. It also includes sections on generator
    lighting, horns, myths and facts about lighting, and a variety of other
    related information.

    I think you're a bit unfair to dynamos. Headlight choice is very
    important, and the Schmidt E6 - with the DT/BiSy optics - is probably
    the best of the bunch. It's nearly as large as a motorcycle headlamp
    and produces a narrow evenly-lit beam which allows riding at high
    speeds. Oncoming cars were dipping their own headlights half a mile
    away when I was riding last night, so it must be very visible. This is
    all with a 3W bulb. The E6 is terrifyingly expensive at 60UKP, for
    which you could buy a nice halogen system, but I hate the thought of
    being stranded due to dead batteries.

    I agree that LED headlights are useless for seeing the road by.
    However, the bigger ones do show up quite well to other traffic,
    especially in countries that use yellow sodium vapour streetlighting -
    the bluish colour of the LEDs stands out. I need to ride in unlit rural
    areas most of the time, so they're not for me, but for someone who only
    rides in the city they're probably a good choice.

  3. Zog The Undeniable said:

    I think you're a bit unfair to dynamos. Headlight choice is very
    important, and the Schmidt E6 - with the DT/BiSy optics - is probably
    the best of the bunch. It's nearly as large as a motorcycle headlamp
    and produces a narrow evenly-lit beam which allows riding at high
    speeds.

    Especially when combined with a SON hub dynamo and second 3W lamp in
    series inna 12V stylee. As much light as you could want for road
    riding at night, even on completely unlit country roads.

    OK, I like a headtorch as well. But that's just for seeing the bottom
    of potholes.

    Guy
    --
    May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
    http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

    88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

  4. Steven M. Scharf said:

    Dymotec S12 Remains the Only Option for High Brightness lights with a Dynamo
    Powered System

    Steven Scharf Is Still A Liar.
    ==============================

    You've been told many times that if you do want a 6W dynamo system - not
    that that is necessary - it can be done enormously more cheaply with 2
    headlights on a 6V dynamo.
    --
    David Damerell <[email hidden]> flcl?

  5. "Zog The Undeniable" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:417f5f21.0@entanet...

    Quoted message said:

    The E6 is terrifyingly expensive at 60UKP, for
    which you could buy a nice halogen system, but I hate the thought of
    being stranded due to dead batteries.

    I think that the 3W dynamo powered lamps make a good back-up in case the
    battery goes dead.

    Quoted message said:

    I agree that LED headlights are useless for seeing the road by.
    However, the bigger ones do show up quite well to other traffic,

    Yes this is true. They are fine for "being seen."

  6. Steven M. Scharf said:

    "Zog The Undeniable" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    I agree that LED headlights are useless for seeing the road by.
    However, the bigger ones do show up quite well to other traffic,


    Yes this is true. They are fine for "being seen."

    That's odd; a few months ago, being seen was the application that demanded
    the most powerful lights. So which is it?
    --
    David Damerell <[email hidden]> flcl?

  7. David Damerell said:

    Steven M. Scharf <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Dymotec S12 Remains the Only Option for High Brightness lights with
    a Dynamo Powered System

    Steven Scharf Is Still A Liar.
    ==============================

    You've been told many times that if you do want a 6W dynamo system -
    not that that is necessary - it can be done enormously more cheaply
    with 2 headlights on a 6V dynamo.

    IMO this is the best solution, with an automatic switch for the second light.
    Besides, it's helpful to aim the secondary, high speed light a bit further down
    the road than the primary one.

    Matt O.

  8. On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 13:23:13 -0400, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    IMO this is the best solution, with an automatic switch for the second light.
    Besides, it's helpful to aim the secondary, high speed light a bit further down
    the road than the primary one.

    Where can I get a circuit diagram for an automatic switch for the
    secondary light?

    Guy
    --
    May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
    http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

    88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

  9. Steven M. Scharf said:

    The discontinuation of the only two wide angle LED flashers (from
    Trek and Specialized) is a disappointment, though they were never
    widely available so few people were even aware they existed. These
    two models solved one of the major design problems with LED flashers,
    the lack of wide-angle visibility (on most LED flashers the LEDS
    point only to the rear). I've left them up on the web page just in
    case someone is able to find one somewhere.

    I don't see the need for wide-angle flashers. Side visibility is another thing
    entirely. But if you're concerned with visibility from behind, the viewing
    angle of an LED flasher is more than adequate. If it takes until a driver is
    within 20 ft to see you, you're already in trouble because your flasher wasn't
    bright enough from directly behind.

    If aiming is a problem, such as when a flasher is mounted on a backpack or
    clothing, then skip over LEDs altogether and use a strobe.

    Quoted message said:

    HID Systems Remain Very Expensive
    --------------------------------------
    There has been little movement in the prices of HID bicycle lights.
    The least expensive model is the Cygo Z-Force with NiCad batteries,
    at $300, and the top-of-the-line Light & Motion ARC H.I.D. with
    Li-Ion batteries sells for a staggering $430. IMVAIO, the advantages
    of HID are elusive, when compared with over-voltaging standard
    halogen lamps.

    HIDs are a hell of a lot brighter for the power consumed than even the most
    powerful halogen systems. But since NiMH batteries have practically tripled in
    power density in the last few years, one could build an actual 50-80W halogen
    system with a reasonably-sized battery, which would rival the light output of
    the brightest HID systems, at a fraction of the cost. However, mountain bikers
    especially want the ultimate in power and light weight, and are more than
    willing to pay for it.

    Quoted message said:

    "For commuters, the best front light is the very bright rechargeable
    lamp."
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    The late Ken Kifer's statement continues to be true. Why is it "the
    best?" Simply because a high visibility lighting system makes it much
    safer _and_ enjoyable to ride at night. It's especially noticeable
    how vehicles do not cut off bicycles with very bright lights (I
    believe this is because they don 't actually realize that it's a
    bicycle, they think it is a motorcycle, or some other sort of
    motorized vehicle).

    This I agree with, although I don't think such powerful lights are necessary. A
    modest 3-5W light is adequate for safety, especially if you make use of
    reflectors and reflective clothing. Then ride defensively. Personally, I like
    as much light as possible, but it's a luxury more than a necessity.

    Some of these HID lights are so bright and unfocused they're a hazard to other
    road users. HID lights for cars are carefully engineered and well-focused, but
    HID bulbs in MR11 reflectors, like most bike lights', are not.

    Matt O.

  10. Just zis Guy said:

    On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 13:23:13 -0400, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    IMO this is the best solution, with an automatic switch for the
    second light. Besides, it's helpful to aim the secondary, high speed
    light a bit further down the road than the primary one.

    Where can I get a circuit diagram for an automatic switch for the
    secondary light?

    Dunno, I've been looking for one myself!

    Frank K. has written about his switched system, but with a manual switch.
    Making it automatic would be the final touch of perfection.

    Matt O.

  11. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Matt O'Toole said:
    Just zis Guy said:

    On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 13:23:13 -0400, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    IMO this is the best solution, with an automatic switch for the
    second light. Besides, it's helpful to aim the secondary, high speed
    light a bit further down the road than the primary one.

    Where can I get a circuit diagram for an automatic switch for the
    secondary light?

    Dunno, I've been looking for one myself!

    Frank K. has written about his switched system, but with a manual switch.
    Making it automatic would be the final touch of perfection.

    I guess the simple way would be with a relay.
    The elegant way would be a switching transistor.
    I doubt it would be much more complicated than
    a 1 or 2-shot multivibrator.

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    -- Nothing is safe from me.
    Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  12. Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:35:07 GMT,
    <[email hidden]>,

    Steven M. Scharf said:


    I think that the 3W dynamo powered lamps make a good back-up in case the
    battery goes dead.

    You mean, _when_ the battery goes dead on your plug-and-play bicycle.

    Dynamo powered lights are for serious cyclists. You don't need one.
    --
    zk

  13. Matt O'Toole said:

    Just zis Guy, you know? wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Where can I get a circuit diagram for an automatic switch for the
    secondary light?

    Dunno, I've been looking for one myself!

    Stefan Reinersch produced such a switch based on a PIC microcontroller in
    small quantities. It was called "Addlite":
    <http://georgloesel.karstilo.net/puffer_schalter.php>
    I am currently trying to make a new design based on the LM-2907:
    <http://www.xn--gnther-schwarz-gsb.de/Addlite/index.html>
    As I am not an expert in electronics this is just a draft. If
    someone wants to help me...

    Guenther

  14. Zog The Undeniable <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<417f5f21.0@entanet>...

    Quoted message said:
    Steven M. Scharf said:

    I have updated my bicycle lighting systems web page at
    http://bicyclelighting.com
    .
    This is a web page that details how to construct a low-cost, high
    performance, bicycle lighting system. It also includes sections on generator
    lighting, horns, myths and facts about lighting, and a variety of other
    related information.

    I think you're a bit unfair to dynamos. Headlight choice is very
    important, and the Schmidt E6 - with the DT/BiSy optics - is probably
    the best of the bunch. It's nearly as large as a motorcycle headlamp
    and produces a narrow evenly-lit beam which allows riding at high
    speeds. Oncoming cars were dipping their own headlights half a mile
    away when I was riding last night, so it must be very visible. This is
    all with a 3W bulb. The E6 is terrifyingly expensive at 60UKP, for
    which you could buy a nice halogen system, but I hate the thought of
    being stranded due to dead batteries.

    Try paying for an E6 in USD, which are basically falling to worthless
    against European currencies at the moment ;-) BTW, I did pay for an
    E6 in USD yesterday despite the horrendous price. Not only is it very
    bright, reliable, etc., but when I travel I do not have to carry
    pounds of battery and pounds of charger plus plug adapters, etc.
    Much better than any battery powered solution on so many levels IMO.

    - rick

  15. "Tom Keats" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Matt O'Toole said:
    Just zis Guy said:

    On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 13:23:13 -0400, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    > IMO this is the best solution, with an automatic switch for the
    > second light. Besides, it's helpful to aim the secondary, high speed
    > light a bit further down the road than the primary one.

    Where can I get a circuit diagram for an automatic switch for the
    secondary light?

    Dunno, I've been looking for one myself!

    Frank K. has written about his switched system, but with a manual


    switch.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Making it automatic would be the final touch of perfection.

    I guess the simple way would be with a relay.
    The elegant way would be a switching transistor.
    I doubt it would be much more complicated than
    a 1 or 2-shot multivibrator.

    cheers,
    Tom

    I always thought that a speed sensor on the front wheel would be best.
    Switch a second light on when you're going fast, switch it off when you're
    going slow. You'd need aa bit of hysterysis to stop it switching too often
    at the changeover speed.

    Marty

  16. "Zoot Katz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:35:07 GMT,
    <[email hidden]>,

    Steven M. Scharf said:


    I think that the 3W dynamo powered lamps make a good back-up


    in case the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    battery goes dead.

    You mean, _when_ the battery goes dead on your plug-and-play


    bicycle.

    Quoted message said:


    Dynamo powered lights are for serious cyclists. You don't need


    one.

    So I am not serious? I have a 20 watt system, and that is not
    enough for the fast descents on rough, wet roads between work and
    home. I could use more wattage and seriously doubt that a 3w
    dynamo powered lamp would do the trick. I am sure they are
    wonderful for all night rides in the country, but that is not
    what I do. -- Jay Beattie.


  17. Quoted message said:

    Xenon Strobes Remain the Best Option for a Rear Light in 12 volt systems
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Xenon strobes remain a better solution for 12 volt homebrew, battery
    powered, lighting systems. This is due to their much greater brightness,
    inherent wide angle of visibility, and of course their significantly lower
    cost.

    Xenon Strobes are not much use for Dynamo Users or anyone who doesn't
    have a reasonable external battery. They consume 1600mah batteries in
    about 2 hours, and the 'Lightman' brand one I purchased was bright
    alright, but not so much brighter than a good L.E.D flasher which
    consumes at least 10 times less power. One of my 2 flashers is an
    'Energizer' brand which came in a pack with a 6 volt headlamp. This has
    a wide angle view and, according to my workmates, can be seen from quite
    a long way away.

    Quoted message said:

    LED Headlights are Still Pretty Bad
    ------------------------------------
    LED headlights continue to disappoint in a major way, but there may be a 5W
    Luxeon LED not too far off. The problem with these higher power single LED
    lamps will continue to be the relatively short time between LED replacement
    (similar to the short life of HS3 bulbs used on dynamo systems); the
    multi-LED headlights continue to be lacking in their ability to focus into a
    single beam.

    My main headlamp is a Luxeon III which I underdrive at 700ma for about
    2.6 watt. It is projected to last 100,000 hours and has a good enough
    light to ride at 25 - 30 km's in rural areas,which I do on my commute.
    Oncoming traffic dips its lights from some distance, same as for other
    bright bicycle lamps. Although I had to shag around a bit with Schottky
    diodes and a driver board and lost about 10 - 15 % efficiency through
    voltage drop etc, this is an excellant match for a 3 watt dynamo and I
    sincerely doubt any incandescant lamp is any brighter. Because I mounted
    it in the above mentioned 6 volt lamp case, I also have (rechargeable)
    backup battery for when I stop. These batteries also power the 2 3 volt
    flashers and I can disconnect the battery from the dynamo with a small
    switch. The whole lamp has a microphone style plug which enables to take
    tha light and battery off to use as a torch when on tour. Match that
    Dymotec S12!.

    Quoted message said:

    "For commuters, the best front light is the very bright rechargeable lamp."
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    The late Ken Kifer's statement continues to be true. Why is it "the best?"
    Simply because a high visibility lighting system makes it much safer _and_
    enjoyable to ride at night. It's especially noticeable how vehicles do not
    cut off bicycles with very bright lights (I believe this is because they don
    't actually realize that it's a bicycle, they think it is a motorcycle, or
    some other sort of motorized vehicle).

    I have to stronly disagree with alot of your statements, as far as
    concerned, my Dynamo L.E.D system is very bright for the wattage and
    combines the inherent advantages of a dynamo system (always ready) with
    tha advantages of L.E.Ds (long lifespan). It is not as bright as 12 volt
    systems, but is more than suitable for the purpose.

  18. Steven M. Scharf said:

    I have updated my bicycle lighting systems web page at
    http://bicyclelighting.com
    .
    This is a web page that details how to construct a low-cost, high
    performance, bicycle lighting system. It also includes sections on
    generator lighting, horns, myths and facts about lighting, and a
    variety of other related information.

    Not a lot of changes in this go-round.

    You pic on...

    "Automatic Switching of an Additional 6V/3W Lamp"

    does not load for me...

    --
    - Zilla
    Cary, NC
    (Remove XSPAM)

  19. Quoted message said:

    Specialized and Trek Discontinue their Wide Angle LED Flashers
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    ---
    The discontinuation of the only two wide angle LED flashers (from Trek and
    Specialized) is a disappointment, though they were never widely available
    so
    few people were even aware they existed. These two models solved one of
    the
    major design problems with LED flashers, the lack of wide-angle visibility
    (on most LED flashers the LEDS point only to the rear). I've left them up
    on
    the web page just in case someone is able to find one somewhere.

    TREK part# 69575, Disco Inferno flashing tail-light, presently available in
    large qtys at both east & west-coast warehouses (midwest warehouse presently
    out of stock). This light has not to my knowledge been discontinued and, in
    fact, has been recently revised. Price is about $25. Impressive light; I've
    installed one on my rain bike.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

  20. "Tom Keats" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Quoted message said:

    I guess the simple way would be with a relay.
    The elegant way would be a switching transistor.
    I doubt it would be much more complicated than
    a 1 or 2-shot multivibrator.

    If you want to base it on when the output voltage of the dynamo increases to
    a certain level, it's pretty easy. You can detect very small increases in
    the output voltage with a simple voltage comparator. I've added a circuit to
    my web site.

    A cruder method is to just hook the dynamo to a bridge rectifier, and a 5V
    relay to the bridge rectifier, via a voltage divider (resistors or
    potentiometer), and set the voltage divider such that the relay energizes at
    the proper velocity (the relay coil characteristics come into play here, but
    it wouldn't take long to experimentally determine the proper divider
    network).

    The downside is that the circuit will consume about 1/3 watt, with most of
    that going to the relay coil (around 40mA at 5V, for a total of 200mW).

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