So, my trusty commuter bomb [the supercalifragilistica] is going pooh-pooh on me. Rather, the BB shell is finally showing it's true condition. The threads are stripped as far in as a $himano UN-52 will reach [on the fixed cup (drive) side]. I knew the threads were sketchy at best [as was the dude I purchased the frame from], but made due. It has only become a problem after about 800 miles of riding.
The Question: are there any BB's out there [73x113] that have an extended threaded section on the fixed side [longer than a UN-52]? I have looked into the YST threadless cartridge, but from what I can tell [and from info from Chris Phillipo--thanks!] they are only available in 68mm width [same with StrongLight JP-1000's].
I don't want to JB Weld a sealed cartridge BB into the shell.
I don't want to drop the jack on getting the threads re-tapped as Italian, and going the Phil Woods route.
"J'm Sm'th" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
So, my trusty commuter bomb [the supercalifragilistica] is going pooh-pooh on me. Rather, the BB shell is finally showing it's true condition. The threads are stripped as far in as a $himano UN-52 will reach [on the fixed cup (drive) side]. I knew the threads were sketchy at best [as was the dude I purchased the frame from], but made due. It has only become a problem after about 800 miles of riding.
The Question: are there any BB's out there [73x113] that have an extended threaded section on the fixed side [longer than a UN-52]? I have looked into the YST threadless cartridge, but from what I can tell [and from info from Chris Phillipo--thanks!] they are only available in 68mm width [same with StrongLight JP-1000's].
I don't want to JB Weld a sealed cartridge BB into the shell.
I don't want to drop the jack on getting the threads re-tapped as Italian, and going the Phil Woods route.
So, my trusty commuter bomb [the supercalifragilistica] is going pooh-pooh on me. Rather, the BB shell is finally showing it's true condition. The threads are stripped as far in as a $himano UN-52 will reach [on the fixed cup (drive) side]. I knew the threads were sketchy at best [as was the dude I purchased the frame from], but made due. It has only become a problem after about 800 miles of riding.
The Question: are there any BB's out there [73x113] that have an extended threaded section on the fixed side [longer than a UN-52]? I have looked into the YST threadless cartridge, but from what I can tell [and from info from Chris Phillipo--thanks!] they are only available in 68mm width [same with StrongLight JP-1000's].
I don't want to JB Weld a sealed cartridge BB into the shell.
Why not? It's a commuter bike. A sealed BB should last years. Get the threads chased first so it lines up correctly. When the frame craps out, recycle it and go dumpster diving for a new one. FTM Maybe now's the time for dumpster diving?
Quoted message said:
I don't want to drop the jack on getting the threads re-tapped as Italian, and going the Phil Woods route.
It's a commuter bike. You don't want a Phil BB stolen with the rest of it.
So, my trusty commuter bomb [the supercalifragilistica] is going pooh-pooh on me. Rather, the BB shell is finally showing it's true condition. The threads are stripped as far in as a $himano UN-52 will reach [on the fixed cup (drive) side]...
So, my old RaceFace taperlock BBs didn't have a fixed cup. These were (are) adjustable chainline units, so the drive and non drive side cups went in however far you wanted or needed to have them go.
The one I have in front of me here is a 120mm spindle, which is quite a bit longer than your 113. I *think* I have one other one somewhere that's a shorter spindle. But I only have one set of cups since I boogered up one set in a failed attempt to remove them using the old-fashioned Park BB tool.
These things are used and questionable, but I doubt I'll ever have a use for them again. If you'd like to give them a try send me a mailing address. -- Tom Purvis - http://www.arkansasvalley.net/tpurvis/ "Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." -Aldous Huxley, novelist (1894-1963)
I don't want to JB Weld a sealed cartridge BB into the shell.
Why not? It's a commuter bike. A sealed BB should last years. Get the threads chased first so it lines up correctly. When the frame craps out, recycle it and go dumpster diving for a new one. FTM Maybe now's the time for dumpster diving?
So, my trusty commuter bomb [the supercalifragilistica] is going pooh-pooh on me. Rather, the BB shell is finally showing it's true condition. The threads are stripped as far in as a $himano UN-52 will reach [on the fixed cup (drive) side]...
So, my old RaceFace taperlock BBs didn't have a fixed cup. These were (are) adjustable chainline units, so the drive and non drive side cups went in however far you wanted or needed to have them go.
The one I have in front of me here is a 120mm spindle, which is quite a bit longer than your 113. I *think* I have one other one somewhere that's a shorter spindle. But I only have one set of cups since I boogered up one set in a failed attempt to remove them using the old-fashioned Park BB tool.
These things are used and questionable, but I doubt I'll ever have a use for them again. If you'd like to give them a try send me a mailing address.
Oooo, now there's a sexy proposition. I'll send you my address. Just remember John Asscroft is watching you. . .
So, my trusty commuter bomb [the supercalifragilistica] is going pooh-pooh on me. Rather, the BB shell is finally showing it's true condition. The threads are stripped as far in as a $himano UN-52 will reach [on the fixed cup (drive) side]...
So, my old RaceFace taperlock BBs didn't have a fixed cup. These were (are) adjustable chainline units, so the drive and non drive side cups went in however far you wanted or needed to have them go.
The one I have in front of me here is a 120mm spindle, which is quite a bit longer than your 113. I *think* I have one other one somewhere that's a shorter spindle. But I only have one set of cups since I boogered up one set in a failed attempt to remove them using the old-fashioned Park BB tool.
These things are used and questionable, but I doubt I'll ever have a use for them again. If you'd like to give them a try send me a mailing address.
Oooo, now there's a sexy proposition. I'll send you my address. Just remember John Asscroft is watching you. . .
Pretty sure Asscroft's had his eyes on Purvis for a while. ;-)
I don't want to JB Weld a sealed cartridge BB into the shell.
Why not? It's a commuter bike. A sealed BB should last years. Get the threads chased first so it lines up correctly. When the frame craps out, recycle it and go dumpster diving for a new one. FTM Maybe now's the time for dumpster diving?
Not me man. My thought is ride what's cheap and works. My commuter bike's got Campy Chorus components (what's left after converting it to a fixed gear), and a Columbus tubing frame. The bike was hanging in my shed since I bought a new road bike half a dozen years ago. Too nice to leave around unlocked. Too dated to be worth much $. Now its the fixie death machine for whatever river rat decides to ride off on it. :-)
> I don't want to JB Weld a sealed cartridge BB into the shell.
Why not? It's a commuter bike. A sealed BB should last years. Get the threads chased first so it lines up correctly. When the frame craps out, recycle it and go dumpster diving for a new one. FTM Maybe now's the time for dumpster diving?
Not me man. My thought is ride what's cheap and works. My commuter bike's got Campy Chorus components (what's left after converting it to a fixed gear), and a Columbus tubing frame. The bike was hanging in my shed since I bought a new road bike half a dozen years ago. Too nice to leave around unlocked. Too dated to be worth much $. Now its the fixie death machine for whatever river rat decides to ride off on it. :-)
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 14:13:16 -0600 Shawn <[email hidden]> wrote:
> J'm Sm'th wrote: > >> I don't want to JB Weld a sealed cartridge BB into the shell. > > > Why not? It's a commuter bike. A sealed BB should last years. Get the > threads chased first so it lines up correctly. When the > frame craps out, recycle it and go dumpster diving for a new one. FTM > Maybe now's the time for dumpster diving?
Not me man. My thought is ride what's cheap and works. My commuter bike's got Campy Chorus components (what's left after converting it to a fixed gear), and a Columbus tubing frame. The bike was hanging in my shed since I bought a new road bike half a dozen years ago. Too nice to leave around unlocked. Too dated to be worth much $. Now its the fixie death machine for whatever river rat decides to ride off on it. :-) Shawn
As it should be!
FYI a good friend of mine who lives around the corner on a common bar-to-campus route had two townies stolen one night a few weeks ago. One was his fixie, which he's had taken before, and he just walks around a bit and usually finds it next to a pool of blood within a block or two. No such luck this time! It really, really sucks! They had either ridden one before, or maybe walked it away.
Matt (I used to own that house and we used to loose townies there too - [censored]!)
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 14:13:16 -0600 Shawn <[email hidden]> wrote:
> J'm Sm'th wrote: > >> I don't want to JB Weld a sealed cartridge BB into the shell. > > > > Why not? It's a commuter bike. A sealed BB should last years. Get > the threads chased first so it lines up correctly. When the frame > craps out, recycle it and go dumpster diving for a new one. FTM Maybe > now's the time for dumpster diving?
I don't want to JB Weld a sealed cartridge BB into the shell.
You may want to look into simply having your BB threads chased and the shell faced a millimeter or two on the drive side. This will at least make the remaining threads usable. Then use plumber's teflon tape or whatever on the install. This might allow enough compression and even force distribution on the threads to prevent further crapping out. This would prolly be your least expensive route.
