well I got a settlment now how to spend it?

Steve Knight said:

I posted that I got hit by a car and the bike needed about 720.00 to get it as
good as new. well I got offered 2500.00 today so I am pretty happy. I can only
spend about 1500 or so on cycling.
now I have to decide on how to do it. the only complaint about my current bike
or is it me and my weight is all the seats I have tried always put pressure on
my groin. I have not found a position or adjustment that fixed this. or a seat
with a soft nose though that helped. 20 miles a day is about the max I can
handle. I have not noticed much difference going from 270 to 222 either. my sit
bones are fine. it is a Italian racing bike and that means everything I want to
carry is on my back too. since I mainly commute this is a little bit of a
hassle.
been thinking about a bent too. that would take care of any seating issues
and be fun too. the bike shop my bike is at is a used bike store. he carries
nice used road bikes. plus he could sell mine. I know people have been wanting
the frame as it is pretty unique.

Well, if your a BOB type, I think $2500 is the cost of a custom
Rivendell. 🙂 As far as seating goes, yes, you could go recumbent.
One question I have for you is have you tried a Brooks? I didn't
believe all the hype until I put a Team Professional on my Paramount,
and wow... It's like a couch now. Looks good to boot on a Lugged
frame. The weight weenie in my lost out on that one, probably put the
bike over 20lbs, but it was worth it.

Mark

--
Mark Wolfe Lakeside, ca http://www.wolfenet.org
gpg fingerprint = 42B6 EFEB 5414 AA18 01B7 64AC EF46 F7E6 82F6 8C71
Only two things are infinite: the Universe and human stupidity, and I'm
not sure about the former - Albert Einstein

O

Quoted message said:

Well, if your a BOB type, I think $2500 is the cost of a custom
Rivendell. 🙂 As far as seating goes, yes, you could go recumbent.
One question I have for you is have you tried a Brooks? I didn't
believe all the hype until I put a Team Professional on my Paramount,
and wow... It's like a couch now. Looks good to boot on a Lugged
frame. The weight weenie in my lost out on that one, probably put the
bike over 20lbs, but it was worth it.

I can't spend it all on a bike though I would like too.
yes tried the brooks a team pro. my sit bones love it but the nose kills me.
the only way I found to relive it is a more upright position. but that's not
practical on a racing bike. a touring bike would be better for me. but the bent
was so much fun and something different.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight said:

O

Quoted message said:

Well, if your a BOB type, I think $2500 is the cost of a custom
Rivendell. 🙂 As far as seating goes, yes, you could go recumbent.
One question I have for you is have you tried a Brooks? I didn't
believe all the hype until I put a Team Professional on my Paramount,
and wow... It's like a couch now. Looks good to boot on a Lugged
frame. The weight weenie in my lost out on that one, probably put the
bike over 20lbs, but it was worth it.

I can't spend it all on a bike though I would like too.
yes tried the brooks a team pro. my sit bones love it but the nose kills me.
the only way I found to relive it is a more upright position. but that's not
practical on a racing bike. a touring bike would be better for me. but the bent
was so much fun and something different.

So get a touring bike? Find a bike, like a Rivendell, that will let
you "Raise dat stem!" Pardon me for stating the obvious, but it
sounds like your racing bike experience wasn't comfortable.

Doctor, it hurts when I do this.
Don't do that.

Email address works as is.

Quoted message said:

So get a touring bike? Find a bike, like a Rivendell, that will let
you "Raise dat stem!" Pardon me for stating the obvious, but it
sounds like your racing bike experience wasn't comfortable.

only in the crotch. that's the only thing that bothered me. I had played with
the stem length and height and got everything good but the crotch problem.
but the racing bike was sure fun (G) when I felt good it almost felt like the
bike would zip out from under me.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

I'm waiting on my LHT to come in, and I'm sure I'll be able to raise the
bars. Check this one out http://photos.yahoo.com/murraylove Those are
pretty high bars on that one. 🙂 F/F is around $400, heck Harris
Cyclery lists it at 373.00 with the qbp catalog search. Then you just
have to hang parts on it. Sounds like you probably have some stuff that
survived the crash. The LHT is new, but looks like an excellent touring
rig.

Steve Knight said:

Quoted message said:

So get a touring bike? Find a bike, like a Rivendell, that will let
you "Raise dat stem!" Pardon me for stating the obvious, but it
sounds like your racing bike experience wasn't comfortable.

only in the crotch. that's the only thing that bothered me. I had played with
the stem length and height and got everything good but the crotch problem.
but the racing bike was sure fun (G) when I felt good it almost felt like the
bike would zip out from under me.

--
Mark Wolfe Lakeside, ca http://www.wolfenet.org
gpg fingerprint = 42B6 EFEB 5414 AA18 01B7 64AC EF46 F7E6 82F6 8C71

Quoted message said:

You stupid? All of Europe (maybe except those crazy Brits) prints on

A4 paper.
Crazy we may be, but not foolscap.
- James Kilfiger, ctt

http://www.japanesetools.com/tools/tasai_chisels/finest_chisels.html
Admit it Steve, this is what you really want. Although your $2500
won't be nearly enough.

Can't really help you with the bike recommendation since it appears
the saddle is the problem. Not the bike. I see many racing bikes
today with very high handlebars and short reaches so the rider is
sitting very upright. Nothing too wrong with this if it makes the
saddle comfortable for you. Nothing wrong with short rides either if
that is all your saddle will allow. Do two 20 miles rides a day.

Steve Knight <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I posted that I got hit by a car and the bike needed about 720.00 to get it as
good as new. well I got offered 2500.00 today so I am pretty happy. I can only
spend about 1500 or so on cycling.
now I have to decide on how to do it. the only complaint about my current bike
or is it me and my weight is all the seats I have tried always put pressure on
my groin. I have not found a position or adjustment that fixed this. or a seat
with a soft nose though that helped. 20 miles a day is about the max I can
handle. I have not noticed much difference going from 270 to 222 either. my sit
bones are fine. it is a Italian racing bike and that means everything I want to
carry is on my back too. since I mainly commute this is a little bit of a
hassle.
been thinking about a bent too. that would take care of any seating issues
and be fun too. the bike shop my bike is at is a used bike store. he carries
nice used road bikes. plus he could sell mine. I know people have been wanting
the frame as it is pretty unique.

Quoted message said:

Can't really help you with the bike recommendation since it appears
the saddle is the problem. Not the bike. I see many racing bikes
today with very high handlebars and short reaches so the rider is
sitting very upright. Nothing too wrong with this if it makes the
saddle comfortable for you. Nothing wrong with short rides either if
that is all your saddle will allow. Do two 20 miles rides a day.

I have tried 6 different saddles. brooks team pro, Selle San Marco tri saddle.
it had too much curve or it may have come close terry fly and the selle italia
tt I think it was. my sit bones were fine with all but the nose caused problems.
the two with padded noses were best but still. I don't want to limit my riding
because of my crotch.
but the more upright you get the harder the seat is on you too for longer
rides. because then you have more pressure on your sitbones.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Quoted message said:

but the more upright you get the harder the seat is on you too for longer
rides. because then you have more pressure on your sitbones.

Yes. But many people ride many miles sitting very upright. Just
because you are sitting upright does not mean your backside will be
uncomfortable on the saddle. Many people ride with their hands on the
tops by the stem, sitting very upright. All of their weight is
supported by their backside.

I'd suggest trying your most comfortable saddle and getting a high
rise stem to get the bars up and closer to you. Buy a stem cheap from
your bike shop or mail order. If threaded, then try the Nitto
Technomic. If threadless then try one of those 40 degree stems or one
of those devices that clamps onto the top of your stem and lets you
clamp the stem 2 inches higher. These would all be cheap and easy to
try to get your bike more comfortable. Very little is wasted if it
does not work.

Quoted message said:

I'd suggest trying your most comfortable saddle and getting a high
rise stem to get the bars up and closer to you. Buy a stem cheap from
your bike shop or mail order. If threaded, then try the Nitto
Technomic. If threadless then try one of those 40 degree stems or one
of those devices that clamps onto the top of your stem and lets you
clamp the stem 2 inches higher. These would all be cheap and easy to
try to get your bike more comfortable. Very little is wasted if it
does not work.

I had been thinking of doing it. or just waiting on that bike till I loose more
weight. a racing bike is not the ideal commuting bike. I sometimes have heavy
things to carry and it all has to go on my back.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On 18 Oct 2004 08:34:35 -0700, [email hidden] (Russell

Seaton) said:

http://www.japanesetools.com/tools/tasai_chisels/finest_chisels.html
Admit it Steve, this is what you really want. Although your $2500
won't be nearly enough.

<snip>

Amazing how every "Japanese" word on that page is traditional Chinese.
lol
Michael J. Klein [email hidden]
Dasi Jen, Taoyuan Hsien, Taiwan, ROC
Please replace mousepotato with asiancastings
---------------------------------------------

Steve Knight <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I'd suggest trying your most comfortable saddle and getting a high
rise stem to get the bars up and closer to you. Buy a stem cheap from
your bike shop or mail order. If threaded, then try the Nitto
Technomic. If threadless then try one of those 40 degree stems or one
of those devices that clamps onto the top of your stem and lets you
clamp the stem 2 inches higher. These would all be cheap and easy to
try to get your bike more comfortable. Very little is wasted if it
does not work.

I had been thinking of doing it. or just waiting on that bike till I loose more
weight. a racing bike is not the ideal commuting bike. I sometimes have heavy
things to carry and it all has to go on my back.

Do the above to the racing bike. Get the bars up cheaply and see if
it makes riding more comfortable. No problem with having high bars on
a racing bike since you ride for fun.

For commuting get another road bike, cheap and used from the shop you
mentioned, and put a rack on it. Buy cheap but very functional
panniers from Nashbar. I have Nashbar panniers and they have worked
just fine for many thousands and months of loaded touring. Anything
but a jointer or maybe try or fore plane should easily fit in the
panniers. And get the bars up so the saddle is comfortable. A second
bike to ride is good because if something is not working you can
always ride the other bike.

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=66&subcategory=1004&brand=&sku=6997&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

Michael J. Klein said:

Amazing how every "Japanese" word on that page is traditional Chinese.
lol

Amazing how every "English" word in this sentence is written using Roman letters.

RFM, Nihon-jin

Quoted message said:

Do the above to the racing bike. Get the bars up cheaply and see if
it makes riding more comfortable. No problem with having high bars on
a racing bike since you ride for fun.

true. but ya gotta go fast to really have the fun on it (G)
I just bought a bent for my main bike. should have it tomorrow.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Michael J. Klein <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

On 18 Oct 2004 08:34:35 -0700, [email hidden] (Russell

Seaton) said:

http://www.japanesetools.com/tools/tasai_chisels/finest_chisels.html
Admit it Steve, this is what you really want. Although your $2500
won't be nearly enough.

<snip>

Amazing how every "Japanese" word on that page is traditional Chinese.
lol
Michael J. Klein [email hidden]
Dasi Jen, Taoyuan Hsien, Taiwan, ROC
Please replace mousepotato with asiancastings
---------------------------------------------

I thought that Japanese used Chinese characters? (I don't know either
language). How can you tell the difference- is it a matter of knowing
both dialects or is it possible to distinquish based on general rules-
for instance maybe one language always slants characters at a certain
angle? Not bicycle related- just of interest to me.

Justin Seiferth said:

Michael J. Klein said:

On 18 Oct 2004 08:34:35 -0700, [email hidden] (Russell

Seaton) said:

http://www.japanesetools.com/tools/tasai_chisels/finest_chisels.html

Amazing how every "Japanese" word on that page is traditional Chinese.

I thought that Japanese used Chinese characters? (I don't know either
language). How can you tell the difference-

Japanese uses the kanji, a set of Chinese-derived characters; there are
about 2,000 kanji in the core government-approved set (if you know these,
frex, you're unlikely to see an unfamiliar one in a newspaper), and they
combine in twos and threes to represent more complex concepts.

However there are also two syllabic alphabets, the hiragana and katakana.
These encode the same set of syllables; typically the katakana are used
for emphasis and recent loanwords from other languages, and the hiragana
serve for the small grammatical particles that aren't represented by
kanji.

One could write entirely in the syllabic alphabets, but that is unclear
(kanji serve to disambiguate things with the same pronunciation, and the
language is not usually spaced between words) and seen as childish. Often,
also, kanji are augmented with "furigana", small characters in the
hiragana above the kanji that tell the reader how it's pronounced, in case
the kanji is unfamiliar.

A Chinese document is entirely in kanji-like characters - if you happen to
know almost all the kanji, you can recognise Chinese by the fact that many
of the characters aren't kanji - but more often one distinguishes Chinese
by the lack of any syllabic characters, and conversely the presence of
the syllabic characters distinguishes Japanese.

However, a page like that one - with only short expressions and proper
names, no actual sentences - can well avoid the use of the syllabic
alphabets.
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]> flcl?

On 21 Oct 2004 08:09:37 -0700, [email hidden] (Justin

Seiferth) said:

Michael J. Klein <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

On 18 Oct 2004 08:34:35 -0700, [email hidden] (Russell

Seaton) said:

http://www.japanesetools.com/tools/tasai_chisels/finest_chisels.html
Admit it Steve, this is what you really want. Although your $2500
won't be nearly enough.

<snip>

Amazing how every "Japanese" word on that page is traditional Chinese.
lol
Michael J. Klein [email hidden]
Dasi Jen, Taoyuan Hsien, Taiwan, ROC
Please replace mousepotato with asiancastings
---------------------------------------------

I thought that Japanese used Chinese characters? (I don't know either
language). How can you tell the difference- is it a matter of knowing
both dialects or is it possible to distinquish based on general rules-
for instance maybe one language always slants characters at a certain
angle? Not bicycle related- just of interest to me.

Dear Justin,

Maybe they slant the dots over their i's differently?

Epicanthically,

Carl Fogel

David Damerell said:

Chinese document is entirely in kanji-like characters

Since the origin of the characters is China, your statement seems a
little backwards.

JT

****************************
Remove "remove" to reply
Visit http://www.jt10000.com
****************************

Steve Knight <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Do the above to the racing bike. Get the bars up cheaply and see if
it makes riding more comfortable. No problem with having high bars on
a racing bike since you ride for fun.

true. but ya gotta go fast to really have the fun on it (G)
I just bought a bent for my main bike. should have it tomorrow.

Congrats. Which one did you get?

Had a bent for a while, looking forward to my next one.

Quoted message said:

Congrats. Which one did you get?

Had a bent for a while, looking forward to my next one.

the burley limbo. I like that you sit higher then usual since I ride in traffic
a lot. the crank is higher then most of the lwb bents but not quite as high as
most short ones.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.