Fitting Mudguards

On Sat, 02 Oct 2004 12:29:27 +0100, " [Not Responding] "
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Having been on the wet end of a soaking last week I bought some
mudguards. I've spent the morning fiddling with all the associated
ironmongery.

What make and model of mudguards, what kind of bike?

Usually the front one mounts on the eyelets on the back of the front
fork, and there is a hole through the fork (which used to be used for
brakes) where you can bolt or zip-tie the tab on the top. The rear
one generally has a clamp which bolts on the brake hanger on the
seatstays and has to be bent round the guard when in place, the front
either clips or bolts (or zip-ties) to a cross-piece between the
chainstays.

Oh, and you have to take the wheels off first :-)

Guy
--
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

Not Responding said:

HELP REQUIRED.

Having been on the wet end of a soaking last week I bought some
mudguards. I've spent the morning fiddling with all the associated
ironmongery.

Any tips on how complete the exercise without teaching my children New
Words? It looks like one of those ghastly jobs that require 3 hands.

When I used to work in a lbs (here I go again). We all used to try to
avoid fitting muguards. Its one of the worst bike related jobs. You
need at least 3 hands.

Stan Cox

you know? said:

On Sat, 02 Oct 2004 12:29:27 +0100, " [Not Responding] "
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Having been on the wet end of a soaking last week I bought some
mudguards. I've spent the morning fiddling with all the associated
ironmongery.

What make and model of mudguards, what kind of bike?

Bike is the Carrera Subway 8 and guards are SKS full guards for MTB.

As discussed elsewhere, the roller brake mechanism fouls the eyes for
the front stay. I'm considering using the front pannier braze ons to
attach the guard stay instead. Any reason why I shouldn't?

Quoted message said:

Usually the front one mounts on the eyelets on the back of the front
fork, and there is a hole through the fork (which used to be used for
brakes) where you can bolt or zip-tie the tab on the top. The rear
one generally has a clamp which bolts on the brake hanger on the
seatstays and has to be bent round the guard when in place, the front
either clips or bolts (or zip-ties) to a cross-piece between the
chainstays.

Oh, and you have to take the wheels off first :-)

This is going to seem really ignorant. But why? Or are you pulling my
leg? I was going to have the wheels in situ to use as guide to ensure
it's all symetrical and not rubbing.

Quoted message said:

Guy

On Sat, 02 Oct 2004 13:34:06 +0100, " [Not Responding] "
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Bike is the Carrera Subway 8 and guards are SKS full guards for MTB.

Ah, yes, had I engaged brain I'd have remembered.

Quoted message said:

As discussed elsewhere, the roller brake mechanism fouls the eyes for
the front stay. I'm considering using the front pannier braze ons to
attach the guard stay instead. Any reason why I shouldn't?

None at all. The front guards on my Thorn attach halfway up the fork
legs (this is apparently a safety feature). Alternatively you might
be able to use one of the three dozen random bits of slotted stainless
left over from a rack fitting kit to extend the mudguard eye up a bit.

You can just about see it on the Cyclefest pic that Liz took:

chapmancentral.co.ukDSC 0031.jpgOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Oh, and you have to take the wheels off first :-)

Quoted message said:

This is going to seem really ignorant. But why? Or are you pulling my
leg? I was going to have the wheels in situ to use as guide to ensure
it's all symetrical and not rubbing.

Oh, it's serious all right. It gives you *much* more room to play
with and lets you get the nuts 'n' bolts in without pain. Normally I
fit the things with the stays untrimmed and the stay bolts hand-tight,
put the wheels back, fettle, tighten and trim the stays. I am sure
bike shop people can do it without removing the wheels and in half the
time, but since the effort involved is trivial and the job is much
easier as a result, I don't care that much.

For amusement you might like to look at the rear guard on my Stinger
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk/web/public.nsf/Documents/stinger
Second picture down, also visible in here:
chapmancentral.co.ukIMGP0282.jpgOpen ↗

I had to find a 20" narrow-profile mudguard, bolt it to the mudguard
eyes, zip-tie the top right-hand stay to the convenient vertical on
the chainstay, adapt a clamp from a 26" mudguard and space it off the
web in the rear fork using an assembly of a 3" long bolt and a
collection of stainless nyloc nuts. And it works a treat :-)

Guy
--
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

" [Not Responding] " <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Oh, and you have to take the wheels off first :-)

This is going to seem really ignorant. But why? Or are you pulling my
leg? I was going to have the wheels in situ to use as guide to ensure
it's all symetrical and not rubbing.

If it's any consolation I think I do mine wheels on.

cheers,
clive

in message <[email hidden]>, [Not

Responding (') said:

you know? said:

On Sat, 02 Oct 2004 12:29:27 +0100, " [Not Responding] "
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Having been on the wet end of a soaking last week I bought some
mudguards. I've spent the morning fiddling with all the associated
ironmongery.

What make and model of mudguards, what kind of bike?

Bike is the Carrera Subway 8 and guards are SKS full guards for MTB.

I *hate* mudguards. They're a real fiddle to fit, and they're even more
of a fiddle to keep from rubbing. Having said that, at her insistence I
fitted a pair to Juliette's Royale and they weren't too much hassle and
have worked OK.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Oh, and you have to take the wheels off first :-)

This is going to seem really ignorant. But why? Or are you pulling my
leg? I was going to have the wheels in situ to use as guide to ensure
it's all symetrical and not rubbing.

You don't _have_ to take the wheels of first. I didn't with Juliette's.
It is less fiddly, however, to take the wheels off, do the basic
fitting, and then put the wheels back on to adjust. They're still a
pain.

Have you considered P-clips if you can't use the standard mudguard stay
eyelets? The other thing to consider (I know, I know, you've bought
them now) is something like the SKS Raceblades, which don't go through
the front brake arch and simply zip-tie on to the forks and seatstays.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; 99% of browsers can't run ActiveX controls. Unfortunately
;; 99% of users are using the 1% of browsers that can...
[seen on /. 08:04:02]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I've got the rear one on now - without
taking the wheel off.

Taking the wheel off on this bike is simple but a tad more involved
than a conventionally geared machine.

Besides, I'm doing this in my study and the more compact the work area
and less dismantled the bike, the less likely I am to be spotted.

Will tackle the front after a tea break.

Not Responding said:

Bike is the Carrera Subway 8 and guards are SKS full guards for MTB.

As discussed elsewhere, the roller brake mechanism fouls the eyes for
the front stay. I'm considering using the front pannier braze ons to
attach the guard stay instead. Any reason why I shouldn't?

No reason why not (and some makers do fit there for safety reasons).

The alternative might be to use a longer bolt (I think they are M4's) and a
piece of metal tube to space the mudguard around the brake fittings. I'm
making a guess that if you could raise the stay over the brakes, all would
be well. (If you've not got any scrap metal tube lying around, find a model
shop with a K&S metal stand, or possibly a branch of B&Q).

- Nigel

--
NC - Webmaster for http://www.2mm.org.uk/
Replies to newsgroup postings to the newsgroup please.

Not Responding said:

HELP REQUIRED.

Having been on the wet end of a soaking last week I bought some
mudguards. I've spent the morning fiddling with all the associated
ironmongery.

Any tips on how complete the exercise without teaching my children New
Words? It looks like one of those ghastly jobs that require 3 hands.

http://www.peeble.com/bikes/bikes.htm

Zog The Undeniable said:

Not Responding said:

HELP REQUIRED.

Having been on the wet end of a soaking last week I bought some
mudguards. I've spent the morning fiddling with all the associated
ironmongery.

Any tips on how complete the exercise without teaching my children New
Words? It looks like one of those ghastly jobs that require 3 hands.

http://www.peeble.com/bikes/bikes.htm

BTW, I can post you a longer M6 bolt for the LH stay if you want one. I
had to buy a big bag of them.

On 2/10/04 3:12 pm, in article
[email hidden], "Clive George"

Quoted message said:

" [Not Responding] " <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Oh, and you have to take the wheels off first :-)

This is going to seem really ignorant. But why? Or are you pulling my
leg? I was going to have the wheels in situ to use as guide to ensure
it's all symetrical and not rubbing.

If it's any consolation I think I do mine wheels on.

So do I. It isn't that tricky..

Step 1. Put the stays on. (Dont't tighten up fully)
Step 2. Put the mudguard onto the very end of the stays. This makes it
easier to get the next stay in.
step3. move everything to position and tighten.

...d

Zog The Undeniable said:

Zog The Undeniable said:

Not Responding said:

HELP REQUIRED.

Having been on the wet end of a soaking last week I bought some
mudguards. I've spent the morning fiddling with all the associated
ironmongery.

Any tips on how complete the exercise without teaching my children New
Words? It looks like one of those ghastly jobs that require 3 hands.

http://www.peeble.com/bikes/bikes.htm

BTW, I can post you a longer M6 bolt for the LH stay if you want one. I
had to buy a big bag of them.

Thanks for the offer. I've decided to use the front pannier braze ons
instead (cf Thorn). Seems to be OK but has yet to have a proper trial.

Not Responding said:

Thanks for the offer. I've decided to use the front pannier braze ons
instead (cf Thorn). Seems to be OK but has yet to have a proper trial.

With my SKS mudguards that would have involved bending the stays, so I
didn't.