Flying high...

On 28/9/04 3:29 am, in article [email hidden],

elyob said:

How do you loosen your aheadset when bagging a bike for a flight? Loosen the
top nut first?

Thanks

Just loosen the stem bolts and turn.

Then tighten them up.

Repeat at the other end but turn the stem in the opposite direction.

...d

"David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 28/9/04 3:29 am, in article
[email hidden],

elyob said:

How do you loosen your aheadset when bagging a bike for a flight? Loosen
the
top nut first?

Thanks

Just loosen the stem bolts and turn.

Then tighten them up.

Repeat at the other end but turn the stem in the opposite direction.

Thakns, what's the top bolt for then?

Should I try and get some spacers to fit in the wheel space, as I'm bagging
my bike. Also, what about extra protection for the rear mech?

Thanks

"elyob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 28/9/04 3:29 am, in article
[email hidden],

elyob said:

How do you loosen your aheadset when bagging a bike for a flight?

Loosen

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the
top nut first?

Thanks

Just loosen the stem bolts and turn.

Then tighten them up.

Repeat at the other end but turn the stem in the opposite direction.

Thakns, what's the top bolt for then?

Should I try and get some spacers to fit in the wheel space, as I'm

bagging

Quoted message said:

my bike. Also, what about extra protection for the rear mech?

I would take the whole mech off including the hanger and put it inside the
frame, my hanger broke 10km after arriving in Italy last year and nearly
stuffed up the whole holiday

"elyob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Should I try and get some spacers to fit in the wheel space,

But a length of 10mm plastic plumbing pipe from a DIY store and cut to size,
insert this inside the frame and the skewer to stop the frame bending when
someone puts a heffelump on top of the bag. While you're there some 22m pipe
insulation comes in handy for general protection

"elyob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 28/9/04 3:29 am, in article
[email hidden],

elyob said:

How do you loosen your aheadset when bagging a bike for a flight? Loosen
the
top nut first?

Thanks

Just loosen the stem bolts and turn.

Then tighten them up.

Repeat at the other end but turn the stem in the opposite direction.

Thakns, what's the top bolt for then?

Should I try and get some spacers to fit in the wheel space, as I'm
bagging my bike. Also, what about extra protection for the rear mech?

Thanks

The top bolt is to load the bearings when putting the headset together.
You should loosen it before turning the stem, doesn't matter if you do this
before of after undoing the stem bolts.

At the other end when reassembling you *must* tighten the top bolt first
though with the stem bolts undone!

Your LBS will have plastic front fork spacers which come with new bikes
in boxes, thet should give you one free of charge if you ask nicely. If
you're
not leaving the rear wheel in situ then bodge a spacer to fit between the
dropouts.

On 28/9/04 9:53 pm, in article [email hidden],

Andy said:

At the other end when reassembling you *must* tighten the top bolt first
though with the stem bolts undone!

You don't need the top bolt at all, as long as you get the bearings
sufficiently tight that there is no play.

You can do this just by having the bike on the ground and pushing the stem
down appropriately. Obviously this doesn't work on a work stand.

If you can turn the handlebar then you should be able to turn a loosened
stem without having to worry about the top bolt at all.

...d

"David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 28/9/04 9:53 pm, in article [email hidden],

Andy said:

At the other end when reassembling you *must* tighten the top bolt first
though with the stem bolts undone!

You don't need the top bolt at all, as long as you get the bearings
sufficiently tight that there is no play.

You can do this just by having the bike on the ground and pushing the stem
down appropriately. Obviously this doesn't work on a work stand.

If you can turn the handlebar then you should be able to turn a loosened
stem without having to worry about the top bolt at all.

..d

You try that on a mountain bike with front suspension.

On 29/9/04 9:12 am, in article [email hidden],

Andy said:

"David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 28/9/04 9:53 pm, in article [email hidden],

Andy said:

At the other end when reassembling you *must* tighten the top bolt first
though with the stem bolts undone!

You don't need the top bolt at all, as long as you get the bearings
sufficiently tight that there is no play.

You can do this just by having the bike on the ground and pushing the stem
down appropriately. Obviously this doesn't work on a work stand.

If you can turn the handlebar then you should be able to turn a loosened
stem without having to worry about the top bolt at all.

..d

You try that on a mountain bike with front suspension.

Been there, done that. Your problem?
Why would the suspension make any difference? or do you like having your
bearings compressed?

If they are tight enough that there is no play, then they are tight enough.
It is perfectly possible to get them tight enough by pushing down on the
stem, irrespective of whether the bike has suspension. The laws of physics
still apply. the reaction force through the fork is exactly equal to the
force place upon it (assuming steady state). Suspension is not some magic
thing that can change that.

...d

"David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 29/9/04 9:12 am, in article [email hidden],

Andy said:

"David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 28/9/04 9:53 pm, in article [email hidden],
"Andy" <[email hidden]> wrote:

> At the other end when reassembling you *must* tighten the top bolt
> first
> though with the stem bolts undone!

You don't need the top bolt at all, as long as you get the bearings
sufficiently tight that there is no play.

You can do this just by having the bike on the ground and pushing the
stem
down appropriately. Obviously this doesn't work on a work stand.

If you can turn the handlebar then you should be able to turn a loosened
stem without having to worry about the top bolt at all.

..d

You try that on a mountain bike with front suspension.

Been there, done that. Your problem?
Why would the suspension make any difference? or do you like having your
bearings compressed?

If they are tight enough that there is no play, then they are tight
enough.
It is perfectly possible to get them tight enough by pushing down on the
stem, irrespective of whether the bike has suspension. The laws of physics
still apply. the reaction force through the fork is exactly equal to the
force place upon it (assuming steady state). Suspension is not some magic
thing that can change that.

..d

It's the hassle of it - one hand compressing the stem, the bike dives as the
forks compress you then have to maintain the pressure on the stem as you
tighten up the stem bolts. Far easier in my book to just tighten the top
bolt
up to an acceptable level of bearing loading and then lock the stem in place
with the stem bolts. I agee that at that point the top bolt is effectively
serving
no purpose and could be removed (not that I'd do that :-) ).

On 29/9/04 9:45 am, in article [email hidden],

Andy said:

It's the hassle of it - one hand compressing the stem, the bike dives as the
forks compress you then have to maintain the pressure on the stem as you
tighten up the stem bolts. Far easier in my book to just tighten the top
bolt
up to an acceptable level of bearing loading and then lock the stem in place
with the stem bolts. I agee that at that point the top bolt is effectively
serving
no purpose and could be removed (not that I'd do that :-) ).

Seeing as how you have to hold the stem anyway when tightening it in order
to ensure it points in the right direction, it doesn't make any real
difference. Just pile all the bits on, hold the stem firmly to prevent
rotation, and tighten the bolts on the back. Unless you are extremely
cackhanded it should be no more trouble, and less hassle than overtightening
the top bolt.
...d

"David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 29/9/04 9:45 am, in article [email hidden],

Andy said:

It's the hassle of it - one hand compressing the stem, the bike dives as
the
forks compress you then have to maintain the pressure on the stem as you
tighten up the stem bolts. Far easier in my book to just tighten the top
bolt
up to an acceptable level of bearing loading and then lock the stem in
place
with the stem bolts. I agee that at that point the top bolt is
effectively
serving
no purpose and could be removed (not that I'd do that :-) ).

Seeing as how you have to hold the stem anyway when tightening it in order
to ensure it points in the right direction, it doesn't make any real
difference. Just pile all the bits on, hold the stem firmly to prevent
rotation, and tighten the bolts on the back. Unless you are extremely
cackhanded it should be no more trouble, and less hassle than
overtightening
the top bolt.
..d

I will try it next time I'm faffing with the headset :-)