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Front brake shuddering. Bad Wheels?

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Cycling Equipment
Published
21 September 2004
Last activity
2 October 2004
Original author
Pizza Man
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  1. Greetings,

    I am the happy owner of a new Trek 4300 bike. I haven't been on a bike
    in 20 years and feel like a kid again. This is a great bike with one
    concern.

    Soon after arriving home the front brakes seemed to be losing traction
    for part of the wheel's revolution. This caused a quick vibration to
    the front wheel and forks. The more I rode the worse the shuddering.
    After about 2 hours, the shuddering of the front end was so bad I had
    to stop using the front brake.

    I tried cleaning the rim. No help. I added a bit of toe-in to the
    brakes (V type brakes). No help. I balanced the brakes. No help. I
    carefully trued the rim to near perfection. No Help.

    I finally went back to my LBS where I purchased the bike to see what
    they thought. They said it seemed like the front wheel had a problem
    with the machining on the side of the rim. Nothing I could detect
    visually or by feel. They grabbed another 4300 out of stock and
    swapped out the front wheel (WTB Dual Duty). Problem fixed. They said
    they have had one other person with the same problem. To their credit,
    they let me keep the front wheel of the other bike (leaving the other
    bike un-sellable, till they get a new wheel for it).

    I get the bike home and all feels well. Maybe just a touch of
    vibration, maybe not. Hard to tell. As I ride more I can feel the
    shuddering coming back. As of yesterday it was easily noticeable, but
    the brakes are still functional. I suspect that the problem will
    continue to get worse with use.

    Anyone experience a wheel problem like this. Any homebrew fixes?
    (Maybe lightly sandpapering the side of the rim???)

    I plan on contacting my LBS again to discuss this with them. I would
    also appreciate some advice or insight into this problem from the
    group so I go in as an informed customer.

    Thanks, Tracy

  2. Pizza Man said:

    Greetings,

    I am the happy owner of a new Trek 4300 bike. I haven't been on a bike
    in 20 years and feel like a kid again. This is a great bike with one
    concern. {snip}

    Already answered in AM-B.

    Bill "hope they take care of you" S.

  3. Forgive me, but answered where?

    Bill Sornson said:
    Pizza Man said:

    Greetings,

    I am the happy owner of a new Trek 4300 bike. I haven't been on a bike
    in 20 years and feel like a kid again. This is a great bike with one
    concern. {snip}

    Already answered in AM-B.

    Bill "hope they take care of you" S.

  4. DaveH wrote: {top-post moved}

    Quoted message said:
    Bill Sornson said:
    Pizza Man said:

    Greetings,

    I am the happy owner of a new Trek 4300 bike. I haven't been on a
    bike in 20 years and feel like a kid again. This is a great bike
    with one concern. {snip}

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Already answered in AM-B.

    Quoted message said:

    Forgive me, but answered where?

    Alt.mountain-bike

    Bill "funny thing, for an alt group there's almost ZERO political BS in
    there" S.

  5. DaveH said:

    Forgive me, but answered where?

    Bill Sornson said:
    Pizza Man said:

    Greetings,

    I am the happy owner of a new Trek 4300 bike. I haven't been on a bike
    in 20 years and feel like a kid again. This is a great bike with one
    concern. {snip}

    Already answered in AM-B.

    alt.mountain-bike
    --
    Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
    Some gardening required to reply via email.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  6. On 21 Sep 2004 08:51:50 -0700, [email hidden] (Pizza Man)

    Quoted message said:

    Greetings,

    I am the happy owner of a new Trek 4300 bike. I haven't been on a bike
    in 20 years and feel like a kid again. This is a great bike with one
    concern.

    Soon after arriving home the front brakes seemed to be losing traction
    for part of the wheel's revolution. This caused a quick vibration to
    the front wheel and forks. The more I rode the worse the shuddering.
    After about 2 hours, the shuddering of the front end was so bad I had
    to stop using the front brake.

    I tried cleaning the rim. No help. I added a bit of toe-in to the
    brakes (V type brakes). No help. I balanced the brakes. No help. I
    carefully trued the rim to near perfection. No Help.

    From what's been done so far, I doubt that the problem is in the
    wheel, though if it is, the lbs will probably know about the
    issue...and likely won't have a problem with getting you a functional
    replacement. Otherwise, I'd suggest that you try adjusting the brake
    pad position to center the contact point on the braking surface of the
    rim if that's not where it is already, and check to make sure that
    neither of the V-brake arms has any significant slop at the pivot.
    You may also find that swapping to a different brand of brake pad
    fixes the problem. I've had noisy and shaky results with some Shimano
    pads; swapping to the oft-mentioned Kool-Stop Salmon pads fixed it.
    --
    Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
    Some gardening required to reply via email.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  7. Bill Sornson said:

    DaveH wrote: {top-post moved}

    Quoted message said:
    Bill Sornson said:

    Pizza Man wrote:
    > Greetings,
    >
    > I am the happy owner of a new Trek 4300 bike. I haven't been on a
    > bike in 20 years and feel like a kid again. This is a great bike
    > with one concern. {snip}

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Already answered in AM-B.

    Quoted message said:

    Forgive me, but answered where?

    Alt.mountain-bike


    I tried to figure it out. I really did.

    Quoted message said:

    Bill "funny thing, for an alt group there's almost ZERO political BS in
    there" S.


    That is refreshing.

  8. Quoted message said:


    From what's been done so far, I doubt that the problem is in the
    wheel, though if it is, the lbs will probably know about the
    issue...and likely won't have a problem with getting you a functional
    replacement. Otherwise, I'd suggest that you try adjusting the brake
    pad position to center the contact point on the braking surface of the
    rim if that's not where it is already, and check to make sure that
    neither of the V-brake arms has any significant slop at the pivot.
    You may also find that swapping to a different brand of brake pad
    fixes the problem. I've had noisy and shaky results with some Shimano
    pads; swapping to the oft-mentioned Kool-Stop Salmon pads fixed it.

    I had planned on trying new pads, but I don't want to just band-aid
    over a problem. If it is a bad wheel, I want it replaced. If it is
    just a poor combination to have this wheel with these particular brake
    pads, then trying new pads is clearly simpler than trying a bunch of
    wheels. Having an engineering background, I really like to understand
    why something is happening.

    I spent a lot of time yesterday making sure the brake pads were
    properly aligned. I even tried additional toe-in with little if any
    improvement. I used a 3M abrasive pad (gray) to scuff up the pads and
    also ran them around the contact area on the rim, then cleaned both
    again with rubbing alcohol. This seemed to provide a small amount of
    improvement, but still has a noticeably wide range of gripping when
    using the brakes lightly or moderately.

    As a control I tested my wife's new Diamondback. The brake assembly
    seems the same except color (Tektro). She has anodized alloy rims.
    When feathering the brakes hers were much more even and consistent. I
    plan on doing a wheel swap then riding both bikes for a while to see
    if the problem migrates or not. I'll probably pick up some kool-stops
    as a bit of a test as well.

    I will give the brake arms closer scrutiny as you suggest. I'll post
    the results of my testing.

    Thanks for the input, Tracy

  9. Pizza Man said:

    Greetings,

    I am the happy owner of a new Trek 4300 bike. I haven't been on a bike
    in 20 years and feel like a kid again. This is a great bike with one
    concern.

    Soon after arriving home the front brakes seemed to be losing traction
    for part of the wheel's revolution. This caused a quick vibration to
    the front wheel and forks. The more I rode the worse the shuddering.
    After about 2 hours, the shuddering of the front end was so bad I had
    to stop using the front brake.

    I tried cleaning the rim. No help. I added a bit of toe-in to the
    brakes (V type brakes). No help. I balanced the brakes. No help. I
    carefully trued the rim to near perfection. No Help.

    I finally went back to my LBS where I purchased the bike to see what
    they thought. They said it seemed like the front wheel had a problem
    with the machining on the side of the rim. Nothing I could detect
    visually or by feel. They grabbed another 4300 out of stock and
    swapped out the front wheel (WTB Dual Duty). Problem fixed. They said
    they have had one other person with the same problem. To their credit,
    they let me keep the front wheel of the other bike (leaving the other
    bike un-sellable, till they get a new wheel for it).

    I get the bike home and all feels well. Maybe just a touch of
    vibration, maybe not. Hard to tell. As I ride more I can feel the
    shuddering coming back. As of yesterday it was easily noticeable, but
    the brakes are still functional. I suspect that the problem will
    continue to get worse with use.

    Anyone experience a wheel problem like this. Any homebrew fixes?
    (Maybe lightly sandpapering the side of the rim???)

    I plan on contacting my LBS again to discuss this with them. I would
    also appreciate some advice or insight into this problem from the
    group so I go in as an informed customer.

    If the wheel is out of round in the vertical plane, ie. it isn't
    perfectly round, but has some dips and bumps in it, you will get all
    kinds of vibrations on braking. On some rims it's worse than others.
    The solution is to true the wheel so that it's perfectly round. Side to
    side trueness doesn't effect this much.

  10. Wheel woes update:

    This morning I swapped the front wheels between my bike and my wife's
    bike. First I rode my wife's bike, stock, to see how the brakes felt.
    Good. After the swap there was a noticeable shudder while braking. Not
    near as bad as the same wheel on my bike, but I could tell the braking
    had changed. Gotta be a bad wheel.

    Next I rode my bike with wife's wheel. Definitely improved, but a
    small amount of grab-no grab noticeable when the brakes were applied.
    Hmm, not as definitive a test as I would have hoped.

    I now suspect my WTB wheel is bad and maybe the entry level Tektro
    brakes/pads are not tolerant of inconsistent rims.

    Next, I flipped the bike over and grabbed a small patch of crocus
    cloth (very mild abrasive). I held the patch against the rim using
    moderate pressure with my fingers. I used the front fork to brace my
    arm to keep my hand very still. I then slowly turned the tire with my
    free arm. I found that the crocus cloth would drag then release at a
    few select spots on the rim (the side with the skewer lever). I spun
    the wheel multiple times in both directions till the amount of grab
    was fairly consistent all the way around the rim. I then cleaned the
    rim multiple times with fresh paper towels and rubbing alcohol. Next,
    I applied the same treatment to the opposite side of the rim (away
    from the skewer lever). Whoa! Lots of slick spots. I could really feel
    what the brakes were feeling (grab-no grab). I worked on this side of
    the rim for a while, but didn't make much progress in the consistency
    of the grip. I cleaned it thoroughly and tested. Not bad at first,
    but the longer I rode, the worse it got. At medium speed going down
    hill if I use the brakes to control my speed I get a nasty wheel
    shudder. Not as bad as the first wheel on the bike, but no way
    acceptable.

    I called my LBS and talked the problem over with the head honcho. No
    problem. Bring in the bike and they will swap out the wheel set for
    some other brand of wheel (It would likely be something they have in
    stock, probably a Mavic rim). So far the customer service has been
    nothing short of superb. No hesitating, "we'll fix it". I'm just so
    used to having to put up a fight to get problems resolved these days.

    I am also considering taking the opportunity to upgrade the brake set.
    Brakes are a crucial safety part on any bike and I want 100%
    confidence that pulling the brake lever will bring the bike safely to
    a stop with no fuss or oddities. Looking at the SRAM 9.0 brakes. Good
    reviews, simple, reliable configuration.

    I'll post again after the wheel swap (bike goes in Monday next week).

    Tracy

  11. someone said:

    Wheel woes update:

    Quoted message said:

    This morning I swapped the front wheels between my bike and my
    wife's bike. First I rode my wife's bike, stock, to see how the
    brakes felt. Good. After the swap there was a noticeable shudder
    while braking. Not near as bad as the same wheel on my bike, but I
    could tell the braking had changed. Gotta be a bad wheel.

    Quoted message said:

    Next I rode my bike with wife's wheel. Definitely improved, but a
    small amount of grab-no grab noticeable when the brakes were
    applied. Hmm, not as definitive a test as I would have hoped.

    Just clean off the rim with household cleanser. If the brake shudders
    as you describe, the rim has goo on it. If you live in an area where
    it rains currently, just go out and ride through a long mud puddle
    with the brake on enough to scrub the rim with the grit it picks up.
    That's a lot easier than manually scrubbing the rim.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

  12. Pizza Man said:

    I cleaned it thoroughly and tested. Not bad at first,
    but the longer I rode, the worse it got. At medium speed going down
    hill if I use the brakes to control my speed I get a nasty wheel
    shudder.

    If you're observation is correct ("Not bad at first, but the longer I rode,
    the worse it got"😉 then what is changing? I suspect the cheap pads are
    gunking up the rim. Do yourself a favor and replace them with Kool Stop
    (salmon colored) Continentals. Re-clean the rim, and go ride.

    Quoted message said:

    I am also considering taking the opportunity to upgrade the brake set.

    Unless the calipers are extremely flimsy (which I seriously doubt), this wil
    not be money well spent. Have you checked that the caliper is securely
    fastened to the frame?

    Art Harris

  13. [email hidden] wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    someone said:

    Wheel woes update:

    Quoted message said:

    This morning I swapped the front wheels between my bike and my
    wife's bike. First I rode my wife's bike, stock, to see how the
    brakes felt. Good. After the swap there was a noticeable shudder
    while braking. Not near as bad as the same wheel on my bike, but I
    could tell the braking had changed. Gotta be a bad wheel.

    Quoted message said:

    Next I rode my bike with wife's wheel. Definitely improved, but a
    small amount of grab-no grab noticeable when the brakes were
    applied. Hmm, not as definitive a test as I would have hoped.

    Just clean off the rim with household cleanser. If the brake shudders
    as you describe, the rim has goo on it. If you live in an area where
    it rains currently, just go out and ride through a long mud puddle
    with the brake on enough to scrub the rim with the grit it picks up.
    That's a lot easier than manually scrubbing the rim.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

    Jobst,

    Here near Seattle we get our share of rain. Unfortunately no mud
    puddles in sight. I'll try some more cleaners on the rim. I have
    scrubbed them pretty good and worked them over with the crocus cloth
    as well. One side is OK, the other has a definite slip in multiple
    locations,(when felt with the crocus cloth). The LBS also said they
    just had to trade out a set of the same wheels for another customer
    with the same exact problem. I could just be some knuckle head left a
    bit in the CNC machine for a few too many rims (resulting in an
    inconsistent surface of the side walls). If this doesn't work, the
    bike goes into the LBS on Monday for new wheels.

    Thanks, Tracy

  14. Threeducks <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<j-OdnWHCYqpueM_cRVn->

    Quoted message said:

    If the wheel is out of round in the vertical plane, ie. it isn't
    perfectly round, but has some dips and bumps in it, you will get all
    kinds of vibrations on braking. On some rims it's worse than others.
    The solution is to true the wheel so that it's perfectly round. Side to
    side trueness doesn't effect this much.

    3ducks,

    I don't think that is the culprit here. There is no vibration
    noticable while riding, outside of braking. Also I can feel an
    inconsistent grab when working a crocus cloth on the wheel while
    turning it.

    Thanks for the input,
    Tracy

  15. Pizza Man said:

    Threeducks <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<j-OdnWHCYqpueM_cRVn->

    Quoted message said:

    If the wheel is out of round in the vertical plane, ie. it isn't
    perfectly round, but has some dips and bumps in it, you will get all
    kinds of vibrations on braking. On some rims it's worse than others.
    The solution is to true the wheel so that it's perfectly round.
    Side to side trueness doesn't effect this much.

    3ducks,

    I don't think that is the culprit here. There is no vibration
    noticable while riding, outside of braking. Also I can feel an
    inconsistent grab when working a crocus cloth on the wheel while
    turning it.

    Have you tried turning it around? Might help narrow down causes (perhaps
    seam will not catch pad on other side, for example)...

    Bill "still say get a replacement wheel from shop" S.

  16. "Arthur Harris" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Pizza Man said:

    I cleaned it thoroughly and tested. Not bad at first,
    but the longer I rode, the worse it got. At medium speed going down
    hill if I use the brakes to control my speed I get a nasty wheel
    shudder.

    If you're observation is correct ("Not bad at first, but the longer I rode,
    the worse it got"😉 then what is changing? I suspect the cheap pads are
    gunking up the rim. Do yourself a favor and replace them with Kool Stop
    (salmon colored) Continentals. Re-clean the rim, and go ride.

    Quoted message said:

    I am also considering taking the opportunity to upgrade the brake set.

    Unless the calipers are extremely flimsy (which I seriously doubt), this wil
    not be money well spent. Have you checked that the caliper is securely
    fastened to the frame?

    Art Harris

    Art,

    I made two checks. First the allen bolts that attach the brake arms to
    the fork lugs. Very Snug. The second check, wiggle the brake arms
    front to back. Yup there is play. The amount of play is similar on all
    4 arms. It seems like a bit much, but they are the same and I don't
    have enough experience with V brakes to know how much is OK. I
    referred to my maintenance manual (Zinn and the art of MTB
    maintenance). No reference to what amount of fore-aft play is within
    specs. Just bolt 'em on. I then checked my wife's bike (with very
    similar Tektro V brakes. 3 of 4 felt like my brakes. The 4th had very
    little fore aft wiggle, but also seemed a bit sluggish in side to side
    movement. Maybe it is too tight.

    So, yes the allens are snug. And yes, there is a bit of fore-aft play
    in the arms, but I have no clue how much is tolerable. Any input???

    Thanks, Tracy

  17. [email hidden] (Pizza Man) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Wheel woes update:

    This morning I swapped the front wheels between my bike and my wife's
    bike. .....


    ......> Hmm, not as definitive a test as I would have hoped.

    Quoted message said:

    Just in case this wasn't tried yet... Did you check that your headset
    is tight?? (Hold the front brake on and rock the bike back and forth -
    shouldn't be any "clunking"😉.

    I know it's fairly obvious, "just makin' sure..."

    Nick

  18. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    This morning I swapped the front wheels between my bike and my wife's
    bike. .....


    .....> Hmm, not as definitive a test as I would have hoped.

    Quoted message said:

    Just in case this wasn't tried yet... Did you check that your headset
    is tight?? (Hold the front brake on and rock the bike back and forth -
    shouldn't be any "clunking"😉.

    I know it's fairly obvious, "just makin' sure..."

    Nick

    Nick,

    Nothing wrong with being sure.

    I have tried the test. A little difficult to isolate any subtle front
    shock movement from possible headset movement. It feels like there
    might be a little bit of wiggle in the headset, but I don't know how
    much wiggle is within tolerences. The bike goes into the shop today to
    have the wheels replaced. I'll have them double check the headset.

    The headset may be a component that exacerbates the shuddering, but
    even at very slow speed I can feel the brakes grab and release the rim
    as it turns. I am pretty confident that is enemy #1. I'll post back
    after the wheel swap.

    Thanks for the help, Tracy

  19. UPDATE-

    Over the weekend I scrubbed the [censored] out of the rims (simple green/
    bonami/ gray 3m abrasive pad, rubbing alcohol/paper towels) to be
    absolutely sure the rims had no contamination. No help.

    I picked up a set of Kool Stop MTB pads (dual compound). Mother of
    screaming banshees!!! The squealing is unreal. I tried toe in with a
    small paper clip setting, then using a jumbo paper clip as a shim to
    set toe in. No improvement at all. The overall gross braking with the
    KS MTB pads was better, but the shuddering at anything short of lock
    up was maybe a bit worse than the original shoes. Add the squealing,
    and fagettaboutit.

    I did check the headset carefully and it has a small amount of wiggle
    to it. I don't think that can cause the very slow speed grab/no grab,
    but probably exacerbates the fork shudder. The LBS had the same
    opinion. They will pull off the WTB Dual Duty wheel set and replace it
    with a Mavic X139 set. I'm guessing the rim is similar quality and the
    Deore hub is a small upgrade over my stock hubs. Hopefully have the
    bike back on Wednesday.

    It seems kind of odd that the rim machining could be the problem, but
    on one side of the rim when I rubbed with crocus cloth I could feel
    the rim grab and slip over multiple sections. On the opposite side of
    the rim there was some of this, but it was fairly limited. I am
    concluding the machining differences are the reason for the varying
    friction (sliption?).

    Next step-

    My Trek 4300 went into the shop Monday for the brake shuddering
    problems. The rims still seemed to be the primary culprit. The headset
    had a touch of wiggle in it that may have exacerbated the fork shudder
    at higher speeds.

    I dropped by the LBS on Thursday morning to test and pick up the bike.
    They originally said they would replace the WTB Dual Duty wheel set
    with Mavic X138 wheel set. They actually used a Mavic X221 wheel set
    (with Deore hubs). These are XC wheels and are narrower (and
    presumably lighter) than the original wheels. They are probably a bit
    too narrow for my existing tires (factory recommends up to 1.95"
    tires, the stock tire is 2.1"😉. I'm not an aggressive off-road rider
    (mostly street for me) so the trade to lighter weight is fine. I'll
    probably get narrower tires anyway.

    I tested the bike. The shuddering was eliminated with the new wheel
    set. The headset had not been tightened at this point, so this rules
    it out as the primary problem. I will monitor the wheels for a few
    days as the original rims worked fine for a few days, then started to
    have problems with the shuddering. The brake squealing however was
    still horrid. The mechanic swapped out the wheels, but never did a
    test drive with the bike to see if the shuddering was fixed. So, he
    didn't know the brakes would squeal so badly (sounded like the
    beginning of a car accident before the invention of anti-lock brakes).
    He tried a bit of toe in to no success.

    The next tactic was to swap out the brake arms with Shimano Deore V
    brakes. After installing the new brakes the squeal was gone and the
    brakes were smooth, consistent, and powerful. Unfortunately he changed
    2 variables simultaneously (brakes and pads), so I don't know which
    was the cause of the squealing. When I get the time I will put the
    Kool Stop pads back on to see if the squealing comes back.

    I still have two minor concerns. First is the new Shimano brake pads.
    I have read many posts discussing how Shimano pads tear up rims. When
    I brake the pads sound a bit like mild sandpaper (no point in tearing
    up a new set of rims). As a comparison, the Kool Stop MTB pads on the
    rear are practically silent when they are applied.

    Second, when I ride, the spokes on the new wheels occasionally make a
    pinging noise. I don't know if this is a real problem or just the
    wheels and spokes settling in. I'll keep a close watch on the spoke
    tension and trueness of the rims for a while to be sure nothing bad
    happens.

    Hopefully this lays the shuddering problem to rest. Thanks to all for
    your input.

    Tracy

  20. Pizza Man said:

    UPDATE-

    <SNIP>

    I still have two minor concerns. First is the new Shimano brake pads.
    I have read many posts discussing how Shimano pads tear up rims. When
    I brake the pads sound a bit like mild sandpaper (no point in tearing
    up a new set of rims). As a comparison, the Kool Stop MTB pads on the
    rear are practically silent when they are applied.

    Second, when I ride, the spokes on the new wheels occasionally make a
    pinging noise. I don't know if this is a real problem or just the
    wheels and spokes settling in. I'll keep a close watch on the spoke
    tension and trueness of the rims for a while to be sure nothing bad
    happens.

    Hopefully this lays the shuddering problem to rest. Thanks to all for
    your input.

    Tracy

    1. Swap to KoolStop Salmon pads and keep them and the rims clean.

    2. Factory built wheels often have spoke wind-up, poor tensioning, and no stress relieving. You should have these issues addressed by someone who understands the details of dealing with them.
    Ask how they will tension and tension balance, remove wind-up, and stress relieve. "the Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt explains these steps clearly and correctly. They must be followed to have stability and durability in the wheels.

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