"Scott" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... |I have a 15A fuse blowing everytime I rotate the dashboard dimmer switch to | full on. If I keep the dash lights off the fuse doesn't blow (even a 10A). | I just installed a new stereo (problem started to happen only after this | change) so I put the old stereo back in but this problem still happens. | | Any recommendations? | Should I replace the dimmer switch? | Should I bypass the switch (isn't really useful anyway) and just have them | wired to on?
Your new stereo is causing a massive resistance redundency overload. You need to install a passive resistor with an ohm modulator in line with the switched power cable for the stereo. This will require a new switch to be installed in the dash.
Good luck!
--- __o _`\(,_ Cycling is life, (_)/ (_) all the rest, just details. The Nelson Paradigm =^o.o^= http://intergalax.com http://intbike.com Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.766 / Virus Database: 513 - Release Date: 9/17/2004
"Ground Control" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
Quoted message said:
Your new stereo is causing a massive resistance redundency overload. You need to install a passive resistor with an ohm modulator in line with the switched power cable for the stereo. This will require a new switch to be installed in the dash.
Thanks for the reply but I am sorry I don't understand what you wrote?
Do you mean the correct switch will have a "passive resistor with an ohm modulator " built into it or do I need more than just a new switch?
If there are different "passive resistor with an ohm modulator " how do I determine which one to get?
Your new stereo is causing a massive resistance redundency overload. You need to install a passive resistor with an ohm modulator in line with the switched power cable for the stereo. This will require a new switch to be installed in the dash.
I was more thinking that a passive resistor with an ohm modulator would overthrow his unmodulated ohm capacitor, thus relaying any resistance to the battery. You need to install a pre-resistance modulating line switch which will work in parallel with your new switch on the dash.
"Matthew Paterson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Ground Control said:
Your new stereo is causing a massive resistance redundency overload. You need to install a passive resistor with an ohm modulator in line with the switched power cable for the stereo. This will require a new switch to be installed in the dash.
I was more thinking that a passive resistor with an ohm modulator would overthrow his unmodulated ohm capacitor, thus relaying any resistance to the battery. You need to install a pre-resistance modulating line switch which will work in parallel with your new switch on the dash.
Go for it.
-- Matt
Fear of a flat planet
Actually all I needed to do was not cross the polarity of the dimmer lead. Duh what an idiot I am. Works great now.
Actually all I needed to do was not cross the polarity of the dimmer lead. Duh what an idiot I am. Works great now.
The problem with crossing polarity of dimmer leads is it creates inductive reactance on the powertrain control module bus producing large voltage swings which often deteriorates the hFE of the output drivers. Things may seem fine now but problems will eventually occur. Unfortunately the system component most often affected is the ABS module; your brakes could lock up or stop working entirely for no apparent reason! You will need to replace the driver SMD ICs in the PCM. http://www.chipquick.com/ is a helpful tool if you aren't setup to do this on a regular basis.
I highly recommend using that car only on side roads below 15 mph until you fix this - good luck!
"John Harlow" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Actually all I needed to do was not cross the polarity of the dimmer lead. Duh what an idiot I am. Works great now.
The problem with crossing polarity of dimmer leads is it creates inductive reactance on the powertrain control module bus producing large voltage swings which often deteriorates the hFE of the output drivers. Things may seem fine now but problems will eventually occur. Unfortunately the system component most often affected is the ABS module; your brakes could lock up or stop working entirely for no apparent reason! You will need to replace the driver SMD ICs in the PCM. http://www.chipquick.com/ is a helpful tool if you aren't setup to do this on a regular basis.
I highly recommend using that car only on side roads below 15 mph until you fix this - good luck!
Ha hah ha. Dude the car doesn't have ANY "power" anything... steering, brakes, let alone ABS... That was funny. It is a freaking 5a fuse circuit. I even have the schematics for it.
I got 8k worth of bikes and an 800 dollar car... er with a 200 dollar MP3 player!
I am gonna take a torch to it and make it into a chopped El Camino and use it as a "shuttle" for me and my DH buddies.
I highly recommend using that car only on side roads below 15 mph until you fix this - good luck!
Ha hah ha. Dude the car doesn't have ANY "power" anything... steering, brakes, let alone ABS... That was funny. It is a freaking 5a fuse circuit. I even have the schematics for it.
Oh, well then that's even worse. That means the pent up inductive reactance is destroying all electronics in it's vicinity!
The only recourse at this point is to immediately remove the expensive MP3 player and send to me for safe keeping. Then, the resonating electons will need dampening; water is an excellent conductor. Remove the air filter and insert a garden hose in the intake. Fill with water until it comes out the exhaust.
Only then will it be safe to have the car towed to a scrap heap.
"Scott" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... |I have a 15A fuse blowing everytime I rotate the dashboard dimmer switch to | full on. If I keep the dash lights off the fuse doesn't blow (even a 10A). | I just installed a new stereo (problem started to happen only after this | change) so I put the old stereo back in but this problem still happens. | | Any recommendations? | Should I replace the dimmer switch? | Should I bypass the switch (isn't really useful anyway) and just have them | wired to on?
Your new stereo is causing a massive resistance redundency overload. You need to install a passive resistor with an ohm modulator in line with the switched power cable for the stereo. This will require a new switch to be installed in the dash.
