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Frame/fork materials (hybrids)

Started by Chris Bardell · · Last activity · 15 posts · 499 views

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UK and Europe
Published
19 September 2004
Last activity
20 September 2004
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Chris Bardell
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15
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  1. Hi all,

    Old rigid MTB is dying rapidly, so thinking about a new hybrid. Usage =
    on-road, reasonable-surface bridleway, no off-road. Purpose = commute,
    utility, fitness, might even do shorty audaxes & light touring in the
    future.

    Anyone have opinions or experiences on frame & fork materials? Looking at
    the UKP200-300 range, various materials are on offer (aluminium, alloys,
    Cro-mo, hi-ten). Thinking about comfort, durability, longevity, and
    preferably lighter weight (current bike = 33lbs / 15kg).

    Lastly, any recommendations for hybrids in that price range? Ridgeback &
    Claud Butler stocked in some LBSs round here (Norwich) - both offer
    seemingly decent value bikes in this range. Marin look like superb bikes,
    but too dear. Looking at speccing the bike with mudguards & rack if
    they're not already fitted to whichever model I choose. Yeah, it'll ruin
    the looks, but practicality rules - this'll be my only bike (until I win
    the lottery).

    Thanks for any info.

    PS: I solenly promise to clean & lube the new bike better than I did the
    old one :-)
    --
    Chris Bardell
    [Remove favourite mode of transport from email address]

  2. Chris Bardell said:

    Hi all,

    Old rigid MTB is dying rapidly, so thinking about a new hybrid. Usage =
    on-road, reasonable-surface bridleway, no off-road. Purpose = commute,
    utility, fitness, might even do shorty audaxes & light touring in the
    future.

    Anyone have opinions or experiences on frame & fork materials? Looking at
    the UKP200-300 range, various materials are on offer (aluminium, alloys,
    Cro-mo, hi-ten). Thinking about comfort, durability, longevity, and
    preferably lighter weight (current bike = 33lbs / 15kg).

    In terms of longevity, Halfords guarantee their steel frames for MUCH
    longer than their alu frames (2 years is all they give for the latter!).
    Steel is also easier to modify or respray later, if the frame is good
    enough to warrant this.

    A good steel frame is lighter than a bad alu one, but the best alu
    frames are much lighter than steel. £ for £, alu is usually lighter.
    Cro-mo is much better than "hi-ten" which is a meaningless term used to
    describe something normally used for gaspipe ;-)

  3. Quoted message said:

    Claud Butler stocked in some LBSs round here (Norwich) - both offer
    seemingly decent value bikes in this range.

    If you are in Norwich, I highly recommend a visit to Specialised Cycles in
    Connaught Road off the Dereham Road. Small shop, but highly knowledgeable owner
    (Steve) and staff (Andy). If they can help you, they will. If they can't
    they'll point you in the direction of someone who can. They have Dawes bikes in
    stock and a Dawes Horizon may be in your price range. Admittedly the bikes in
    Specialised tend to be the more expensive ones, but they have certainly had
    Dawes Horizons in stock in the past.

    Specialised is IMO the best bike shop in Norwich, but second best is IMO, Pedal
    Revolution in Bethel Street. PR has a bigger range of bikes to see on the
    premises than Specialised - it's in much bigger premises. I got Luigi, my
    Bianchi ML3 from Pedal Revolution and am very happy with it. I keep going back
    to Specialised though, as Steve & Andy are extremely knowledgeable and
    extremely helpful. If I'm buying local, I'll always try Specialised before any
    other shop.

    Quoted message said:

    PS: I solenly promise to clean & lube the new bike better than I did the
    old one :-)

    If you ever need any work done on your bike - Specialised is *the* place to go
    to locally. My husband got a custom build from Specialised and it's a lovely
    bike - the build quality is second to none.

    Cheers, helen s

    --This is an invalid email address to avoid spam--
    to get correct one remove fame & fortune
    h*$el*$$e*nd**$o$ts**i*$*$m*m$o*n*s@$*a$o*l.c**$om$

    --Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off--

  4. in message <[email hidden]>, Chris Bardell

    (') said:

    Old rigid MTB is dying rapidly, so thinking about a new hybrid. Usage
    = on-road, reasonable-surface bridleway, no off-road. Purpose =
    commute, utility, fitness, might even do shorty audaxes & light
    touring in the future.

    Anyone have opinions or experiences on frame & fork materials? Looking
    at the UKP200-300 range, various materials are on offer (aluminium,
    alloys, Cro-mo, hi-ten). Thinking about comfort, durability,
    longevity, and preferably lighter weight (current bike = 33lbs /
    15kg).

    Decent steel will give you a more compliant ride than cheap aluminium. A
    second hand steel frame in a good tubing - a decent Reynolds or
    Columbus - doesn't cost much. Also, steel frames are much more
    repairable than aluminium. Carbon forks help on aluminium frames but
    are probably out of your price bracket. I've seen several cheapish
    aluminium bikes lately with suspension seatposts, which probably helps
    too.

    Quoted message said:

    Lastly, any recommendations for hybrids in that price range? Ridgeback
    & Claud Butler stocked in some LBSs round here (Norwich) - both offer
    seemingly decent value bikes in this range.

    I've been very impressed with the Claud Butlers I've looked at lately -
    seem mostly remarkable value for money.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    The trouble with Simon is that he only opens his mouth to change feet.
    ;; of me, by a 'friend'

  5. "Chris Bardell" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Anyone have opinions or experiences on frame & fork materials?

    Steel is best in terms of strength, longevity and repairability. It may not
    be as light as aluminum and titanium but there are more important things
    than weight where a frame is involved.

    Reynolds have always made good steel tubing (but there are others) and their
    531 is a good choice for forks. 525 Chrome-Molybdenum tubing is a good
    choice for the frame. Unfortunately your 300 quid would just about get you
    the frameset with that spec and not much to attach to it.

    "Hi-ten" is meaningless. All steel is high-tensile; they just use that term
    when they don't have anything better to say about it.

    What do you mean your current bike is "dying"?

    Ian

  6. Chris Bardell <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    Anyone have opinions or experiences on frame & fork materials? Looking at
    the UKP200-300 range, various materials are on offer (aluminium, alloys,
    Cro-mo, hi-ten). Thinking about comfort, durability, longevity, and
    preferably lighter weight (current bike = 33lbs / 15kg).

    A good quality Cromoly frame will last a lifetime and be comfortable
    to ride without any suspension parts.

    --

    Simon M.

  7. [email hidden] (dirtylitterboxofferingstospammers) wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    If you are in Norwich, I highly recommend a visit to Specialised
    Cycles in Connaught Road off the Dereham Road. Small shop, but highly
    knowledgeable owner (Steve) and staff (Andy). If they can help you,
    they will. If they can't they'll point you in the direction of someone
    who can. They have Dawes bikes in stock and a Dawes Horizon may be in
    your price range. Admittedly the bikes in Specialised tend to be the
    more expensive ones, but they have certainly had Dawes Horizons in
    stock in the past.

    Hi Helen, nice to hear from you again. I did a whistle-stop tour of all
    the Norwich LBSs last week. Dropped in at Specialised - good impression
    all round, but they seem mainly orientated towards high-end road machines
    (absolute beauties) plus some folders. Helpful guy (late 20s-ish, spiky
    hair). Mentioned that someone I 'knew' online ("Helen from somewhere out
    Swaffham way"😉 had recommended them. You'll have to claim a discount next
    time you go in ;-) BTW, I think he said they didn't tend to stock Dawes
    any more.

    I like Pedal Revolution - bought a few bits from there over the past
    couple of years & they seem helpful. Been leaning towards a Ridgeback
    Velocity for some time.

    Thanks again for the tips. Done any more Radio Norfolk broadcasts lately?
    Sorry to hear about your husband's Castle Acre incident - gotta say there
    are some really pig-ignorant cagers round Norfolk. Shame cos it's cycling
    nirvana otherwise. Speedy recovery!

    --
    Chris Bardell
    [Remove favourite mode of transport from email address]

  8. A big thanks to everyone who replied. I didn't realise 'high-tensile' was
    such a catch-all term.

    "wheelsgoround" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    news:1095605540.ZwkQ9w8x3louAaWkYii9ng@teranews:

    Quoted message said:

    What do you mean your current bike is "dying"?

    Just dropped the old MTB in for a rear brake service, which should make
    it roadworthy again. Seem to be at the stage where spending much more
    money on it would be a waste. Was a cheapish bike when I bought it in
    1992 (!) Needs new brakes & cables (f & r), chainrings looking badly
    worn, spider cracked, rear wheel keeps snapping spokes, various rusty
    bits, one of the rack's legs has snapped, bottom bracket componentry
    feels dodgy, indexing never works so I have the thumb-shifters on
    friction, etc. Heavy bugger too, with only 18 speeds. Plus I'm a lousy
    bike mechanic & only have a tiny place - no room to do any work on it.

    I might keep it as a spare/hack once I get something newer. Latest
    thinking: eke it out until the New Year, then look at the January sales
    for a replacement ride.

    But thanks for asking. Do you/anyone have any recommendations for a good
    bike maintenance manual? I've read various bits off Sheldon's site, but
    I'd like to have a book to hand while twiddling. I'm also going to check
    out evening / weekend courses round here too.

    Thanks all.

    --
    Chris Bardell
    [Remove favourite mode of transport from email address]

  9. Quoted message said:

    Dropped in at Specialised - good impression
    all round, but they seem mainly orientated towards high-end road machines
    (absolute beauties) plus some folders.

    Yes, they do tend to go towards the more pricey end of the market when it comes
    to bikes.

    Quoted message said:

    Helpful guy (late 20s-ish, spiky
    hair). Mentioned that someone I 'knew' online ("Helen from somewhere out
    Swaffham way"😉 had recommended them. You'll have to claim a discount next
    time you go in ;-)

    That'll be Andy. He's a good lad and an extremely competent bike mechanic. I
    have to say, Specialised are very good as regards discount. I bought Nathan his
    Met Strad helmet there and a reasonable amount was deducted from the full
    price. I could have got it cheaper online, but by getting it in Naarch, if it
    was not the right size/fit/colour or if Nathan just didn't like it, I know it's
    absolutely no hassle to take back and I don't have to faff with postage.

    Quoted message said:

    BTW, I think he said they didn't tend to stock Dawes
    any more.

    Good job I don't want one then ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    I like Pedal Revolution - bought a few bits from there over the past
    couple of years & they seem helpful. Been leaning towards a Ridgeback
    Velocity for some time.

    It's good if you like Bianchis too.

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks again for the tips. Done any more Radio Norfolk broadcasts lately?

    Most welcome and no.

    Quoted message said:

    Sorry to hear about your husband's Castle Acre incident - gotta say there
    are some really pig-ignorant cagers round Norfolk. Shame cos it's cycling
    nirvana otherwise. Speedy recovery!

    Yup - it's usually wonderful for cycling. I made Vernon sit in a warm bath when
    he got home and discovered more grazing and bruising on his back. I'm just
    pleased it's nothing more serious.

    Cheers, helen s

    --This is an invalid email address to avoid spam--
    to get correct one remove fame & fortune
    h*$el*$$e*nd**$o$ts**i*$*$m*m$o*n*s@$*a$o*l.c**$om$

    --Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off--

  10. in message <[email hidden]>, Chris Bardell

    (') said:

    I might keep it as a spare/hack once I get something newer. Latest
    thinking: eke it out until the New Year, then look at the January
    sales for a replacement ride.

    You will almost certainly get better deals on 2004 models now than you
    will get on 2005 models in January. This is the end of the model year
    and retailers are dumping old stock.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    [ This .sig subject to change without notice ]

  11. Chris Bardell <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all,

    Old rigid MTB is dying rapidly, so thinking about a new hybrid. Usage =
    on-road, reasonable-surface bridleway, no off-road. Purpose = commute,
    utility, fitness, might even do shorty audaxes & light touring in the
    future.

    The closest thing to a do anything bike is a tourer.
    http://www.edinburgh-bicycle.co.uk/catalogue/detail.cfm?ID=17121
    Edinburgh Bicycle do one for £399. Rack and mudguards included. Only
    lighs to be added for a good commuter machine. Drop bars aren't
    everyone cup of tea but drops are better for touring/audax as you have
    more handpositions and can get low for a headwind.
    Iain

  12. Simon Brooke <[email hidden]> wrote in news:dpv022-7su.ln1
    @gododdin.internal.jasmine.org.uk:

    Quoted message said:

    You will almost certainly get better deals on 2004 models now than you
    will get on 2005 models in January. This is the end of the model year
    and retailers are dumping old stock.

    Hiya & thanks for the advice. I had a word with the Ridgeback-stockist
    LBS about discounts on the 2004 models, but he checked stock levels & the
    suggestion was that Ridgeback themselves had nearly sold out all their
    2004 bikes & as such a discount would be unlikely :-(

    Still thinking on this, but thanks for the input. I'm half-tempted just
    to go & order the bugger tomorrow morning, but tinged with the thought
    that the 2005 models will have slightly better spec, and that I should
    wait a few weeks (new Ridgeback range due in stockists' shops mid-Oct
    apparently).

    --
    Chris Bardell
    [Remove favourite mode of transport from email address]

  13. [email hidden] (iarocu) wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    The closest thing to a do anything bike is a tourer.
    http://www.edinburgh-bicycle.co.uk/catalogue/detail.cfm?ID=17121
    Edinburgh Bicycle do one for £399.

    Hiya & thanks - fine looking bike. Checked out the EBC site recently, cos
    I'd heard/read nothing but good words about their bikes.

    Unsure about drops - I've often wanted to get a more aero position than
    flatbars allow (especially when I've had a monster Naaarf*ck coastal wind
    in my teeth). But I've got a minor back prob (very mild scoliosis, i.e.
    twisting/curvature of spine) which I think might not be helped by the
    leaned-forwards riding position on drops. That said, I'd probably be
    riding on the tops / hoods / corners most of the time anyway - I guess
    most people do.

    Cheers for the suggestion. I'll post back to this NG about what I end up
    doing.

    --
    Chris Bardell
    [Remove favourite mode of transport from email address]

  14. On 19 Sep 2004 17:57:56 GMT, Chris Bardell

    () said:

    But thanks for asking. Do you/anyone have any recommendations for a good
    bike maintenance manual? I've read various bits off Sheldon's site, but
    I'd like to have a book to hand while twiddling. I'm also going to check
    out evening / weekend courses round here too.

    I like "Zinn on the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance". Everything
    from how to fix a flat to how to true a wheel. Good clear illos, too.
    --
    Matt K.
    "Believe nothing, dare all."

  15. Chris Bardell <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : Anyone have opinions or experiences on frame & fork materials? Looking at
    : the UKP200-300 range, various materials are on offer (aluminium, alloys,

    One point. There's a *big* difference between £199 bikes and £299 bikes
    so it's well worth trying to spend nearer the top of your range if
    possible.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
    "Technolibertarians make a philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

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