fitting a fork - DIY or not?

shahzad said:

hello all,

i've just purchased a replacement carbon fork and headset, however, i'm deliberating whether or not to fit the fork and headset myself or take it down to the LBS to do it. The carbon steerer needs a wee trim - is there any particular method of doing this? also i don't have a torque wrench - is torque pressure really important in clamping of the headest?

are there any pitfalls / dangers i need to be aware of?

advice really appreciated

www.parktool.com has the drill in the repair section. I think you should go to a bike shop.It'll save possibly buggering some expensive equipment,and save you a possibly more expensive face plant.

Thanks boudreaux,

you're right, thats all the advice i need - will book it in at the LBS for fitting asap!

shahzad said:

hello all,

i've just purchased a replacement carbon fork and headset, however, i'm deliberating whether or not to fit the fork and headset myself or take it down to the LBS to do it. The carbon steerer needs a wee trim - is there any particular method of doing this? also i don't have a torque wrench - is torque pressure really important in clamping of the headest?

are there any pitfalls / dangers i need to be aware of?

advice really appreciated

For the steerer, if you don't have a guide to cut down the steerer it's a pain in the butt. Also, i've read that it's important to put some masking tape around the steerer before cutting, and cut through the tape. This will help prevent splintering which is a concern with carbon steerers.

As for the weebit of trim comment, i'd make sure you aren't over 3cm in spacers and double check what the fork manufacturer recomends as the limit for spacers. If you are too high, you could snap the steerer if you really rank on it during a sprint.

As for the torque wrench, i'm an advocate of using one, but i would not be suprised at all if the LBS doesn't have one either. A lot of pro team mechanics don't even use them. Easton wrote an interesting article on that. Although it's much easier to overtorque a handlebar clamp than it is to overtorque your steerer clamp. Also, using a fine sand paper and roughing up the carbon under the clamp (and i do mean fine grain and a very light sand). Will help keep the stem from slipping.

Lastly---- FOR YOUR HEALTH---- When you saw and sand the steerer, take care to not inhale the dust that forms. I've heard carbon goes in the lungs but doesn't come out. Don't know for sure, but better safe than sorry on that one.

FWIW, Reynolds allows a 30mm space on their steerers and Easton a 50 mm space. Don't know about True Temper, Wound Up, et al. It is important to know this, as previously mentioned, so that your steerer doesn't become an ex-steerer.

And where is the article on torquing, by Easton?

alienator said:

FWIW, Reynolds allows a 30mm space on their steerers and Easton a 50 mm space. Don't know about True Temper, Wound Up, et al. It is important to know this, as previously mentioned, so that your steerer doesn't become an ex-steerer.

And where is the article on torquing, by Easton?

I ride an easton fork, and i'd be scared to death to ride at 50mm. Unforunately my problem is that i can't seem to get enough saddle to handle bar drop. Anyone know why stems don't come at anything lower than a 73/17? (like a 70/20?)?

here is the easton article.

http://www.eastonbike.com/downloadable_files/r&d_files/R&D-06-2Bolts.pdf