YST threadless headsets

On Tue, 24 Feb 2004 01:37:20 GMT, "Ian Szekeres" <[email hidden]>

may have said:

It seems as though I should be able to find some sort of locking collar to keep my current headset
compressed together, knock out the star fangled nut, and assuming the steerer tube is a consistant
thickness and not butted, simply slide a 25.4 stem into the steerer.

I am currently using a threadless riser, and while it does let me adjust the height, It seems like
a real kludge. I miss my old stem 🙁

Any advice would be appreciated

A really cheap threadless stem could be used as a clamp, with no bar installed. Or, if you're
adventurous, you might be able to use a
31.8mm seat clamp with the internal ridge reamed out. I wouldn't recommend that dodge personally,
since it leaves you with just one clamp bolt, but it might work. To get the preload set properly,
if the starfangled nut is already gone, take a piece of 1/4" or 6mm all-thread that's long enough
to go through the steerer and bend into a hook at the bottom, and use that with a wingnut to snug
down the cap at the top while you tighten the tube clamp.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

While not cheap, Time makes an adjustable spacer called the microset. I sell both off list as does
your LBS (G-force is out of production but Microset is current). Tom

--
Bruni Bicycles
"Where art meets science"
brunibicycles.com
410.426.3420
Werehatrack <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

On Tue, 24 Feb 2004 01:37:20 GMT, "Ian Szekeres" <[email hidden]>

may have said:

It seems as though I should be able to find some sort of locking collar

to

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

keep my current headset compressed together, knock out the star fangled

nut,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and assuming the steerer tube is a consistant thickness and not butted,
simply slide a 25.4 stem into the steerer.

I am currently using a threadless riser, and while it does let me adjust

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

height, It seems like a real kludge. I miss my old stem 🙁

Any advice would be appreciated

A really cheap threadless stem could be used as a clamp, with no bar
installed. Or, if you're adventurous, you might be able to use a
31.8mm seat clamp with the internal ridge reamed out. I wouldn't
recommend that dodge personally, since it leaves you with just one
clamp bolt, but it might work. To get the preload set properly, if
the starfangled nut is already gone, take a piece of 1/4" or 6mm
all-thread that's long enough to go through the steerer and bend into
a hook at the bottom, and use that with a wingnut to snug down the cap
at the top while you tighten the tube clamp.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

On Tue, 24 Feb 2004 01:37:20 GMT, "Ian Szekeres" <[email hidden]>

may have said:

It seems as though I should be able to find some sort of locking collar

to

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

keep my current headset compressed together, knock out the star fangled

nut,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and assuming the steerer tube is a consistant thickness and not butted, simply slide a 25.4
stem into the steerer.

Airnimal folding bikes use such a setup: www.airnimal.com

--
---
Marten

Ian Szekeres said:

I really would like to use a quill stem on my newly purchased bike, unfortunately it uses a
threadless headset system.

-snip-

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

There's a company that sells 1" threadless headsets (G-Force) that attach entirely externally,
allowing you to keep your threadless fork and install a conventional stem.

and this off Sheldon's site:

Quoted message said:

The YST "GeForce" headset has a collar which slips over the steerer, and is

clamped to it with a >binder bolt near the top of the collar. The outside of this collar is
threaded, and the upper bearing >race screws onto these threads. The upper race assembly is fitted
with a binder bolt that clamps it

Quoted message said:

tight onto these threads when the desired adjustment has been attained.

-snip-

Yes, that's what you want. It's the discontinued YST "G-Force". They certainly came in handy,
though: yellowjersey.orgFISHBAR.JPGOpen ↗

You might fabricate something to do that.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971