Why do I get dropped?

email hidden said:

Ryan Cousineau said:

That said, hey, you think we could convince Joseph to train with a
parachute on his back?

Quoted message said:

http://www.timeforfitness.com/running/pro_power_chute.htm

Quoted message said:

You'll need the big model Joseph, because you're a big guy.

Quoted message said:

(This is going to be so cool!)

The hard-core adventurer ski-types around here go running on trails in
the woods in the summer with a car tire attached to their belt
dragging behind them. I suppose I could attach my kiddie trailer to my
race bike and fill it with rocks.

Joseph

You and David Michael Anthony:

http://www.eastonbike.com/PRODUCTS/WHEELS/wheel_riders-anthony.html

Ben

p.s. Isn't running towing a car tire a good way to
equalize the level of trail damage between runners
and dirt bikes?

email hidden said:

Quoted message said:

1. Lose weight
2. Know the course
3. Suck more
4. Do intervals
5. Lose weight

I suppose for point 1 I could eat less, and point 5 I could buy a
lighter bike. That's an approved FM solution, right?

Dumbass,

A true Fatty Master will just buy a lighter bike and forget the other
four.

email hidden said:

I think I may try some more structured interval training on my trainer
and occasionally out on a hill. In the pre-season before there were
events I was doing long easy rides, and intervals on my rollers. 5x8
minutes at 93% max HR. Maybe I should do shorter but harder? Now that
there events (average 2 per week) I only ride long rides and the races
but no intervals.

1. Racing is training.
2. Max HR doesn't change much as fitness changes (it changes a little,
but not much), so using MaxHR to guide intensity isn't as precise as
using fitness to guide intensity.
3. One type of structured interval training isn't a cure for all
things. Sometimes you'll want to do longer less intense intervals,
sometimes you'll want shorter more intense intervals. A coach can help
you determine what you need to do, and when.

Donald Munro said:

If you have a power meter you could try racing with the power meter and
see at what wattage you're getting dropped.

Being able to record and then review the race is key.

Quoted message said:

email hidden said:

Quoted message said:

1. Lose weight
2. Know the course
3. Suck more
4. Do intervals
5. Lose weight

I suppose for point 1 I could eat less, and point 5 I could buy a
lighter bike. That's an approved FM solution, right?

Dumbass,

A true Fatty Master will just buy a lighter bike and forget the other
four.

Don't forget the titanium water bottle cage.

I wonder what percentage of CTS's business is fatty masters. One of
the keys to LANCE's success was 2, pre-ride the course.

Bob Schwartz

email hidden said:

Simon Brooke said:

Humans aren't evolved to be
205lbs.

This particular one was ;-)

Joseph

PS: Ok, 200 maybe.

There are some guys around here with some funny ideas about how humans are built
and what are appropriate portions of fat and muscle. Don't worry about it
because they are really easy to beat up.

Ron

On Jun 14, 5:45 am, Bob Schwartz <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Don't forget the titanium water bottle cage.

LOL.

I have King cages. They don't break like Al -- so I doubt they are
more expensive over the long run (none of my Kings have broken). They
grip the bottle great -- it never pops out over rough patches. They
don't seem to lose the grip over time. Yes, they're light.

I'm a cheap [censored], but even I had to admit they were worth the price.

Quoted message said:

Donald Munro said:

If you have a power meter you could try racing with the power meter and
see at what wattage you're getting dropped.

Being able to record and then review the race is key.

Any thoughts on the new Polar CS600 with the new power meter? I never
liked the wristwatch aspect of the 725 (I like holding my bars in the
middle and it's a bike computer dammit!) and the wire mess and
installation issues of the power sensor didn't help either. But the
CS600 seems more to my liking. The calibration method seems a little
suspect, but the portability between bikes and between different
wheels and cranks is appealing.

Joseph

Quoted message said:

The hard-core adventurer ski-types around here go running on trails in
the woods in the summer with a car tire attached to their belt
dragging behind them. I suppose I could attach my kiddie trailer to my
race bike and fill it with rocks.

Rocks, Schmocks! Put the *kids* in the trailer. They can be great
slavedrive^h^h^h^h^h^h^h motivators. "Go faster, Daddy!"

Mark J.

Ryan Cousineau said:

That said, hey, you think we could convince Joseph to train with a
parachute on his back?

http://www.timeforfitness.com/running/pro_power_chute.htm

You'll need the big model Joseph, because you're a big guy.

You could ride with an open jersey like Voeckler.

email hidden said:

Any thoughts on the new Polar CS600 with the new power meter? I never
liked the wristwatch aspect of the 725 (I like holding my bars in the
middle and it's a bike computer dammit!) and the wire mess and
installation issues of the power sensor didn't help either. But the
CS600 seems more to my liking. The calibration method seems a little
suspect, but the portability between bikes and between different
wheels and cranks is appealing.

I've never used the Polar power unit but reports I've heard suggest
that as far as functionality goes, it's not much different than the
old S710 power unit. Installation is supposed to be a little bit
easier, but only a very little bit, i.e., it has a pretty high fiddle
factor. Compared to the SRM, PT, and Ergomo, it has limited storage
memory. The reports also say that it doesn't work very well on a
trainer, though I've never been quite sure why. It does have an
altimeter, and if you were a triathlete then it could be quite useful
to have a HRM that worked across all disciplines. However, I'm not a
triathlete and I prefer a power meter whose accuracy is checkable.

I've been examining iBike files, too. It's good for some things but
I'm not sure it's precise enough to use as a guide for power training.
That is, in terms of guiding power training it's about as precise as
using a HRM -- but the problem is that it costs quite a bit more than
a HRM.

In article <[email hidden]>,

SLAVE of THE STATE said:

On Jun 14, 5:45 am, Bob Schwartz <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Don't forget the titanium water bottle cage.

LOL.

I have King cages. They don't break like Al -- so I doubt they are
more expensive over the long run (none of my Kings have broken). They
grip the bottle great -- it never pops out over rough patches. They
don't seem to lose the grip over time. Yes, they're light.

I'm a cheap [censored], but even I had to admit they were worth the price.

Those are great cages. They should last the rest of your life. You can spend about
the same on some carbon cages that don't grip as well as the aluminum ones and will
probably break just as fast (or faster). King Cages are a good investment.

--
tanx,
Howard

Never take a tenant with a monkey.

remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok?

Howard Kveck said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

SLAVE of THE STATE said:

On Jun 14, 5:45 am, Bob Schwartz <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Don't forget the titanium water bottle cage.

LOL.

I have King cages. They don't break like Al -- so I doubt they are
more expensive over the long run (none of my Kings have broken). They
grip the bottle great -- it never pops out over rough patches. They
don't seem to lose the grip over time. Yes, they're light.

I'm a cheap [censored], but even I had to admit they were worth the price.

Those are great cages. They should last the rest of your life. You can spend about
the same on some carbon cages that don't grip as well as the aluminum ones and will
probably break just as fast (or faster). King Cages are a good investment.

I'm thinking of getting them, though I have to say that the steel King
cages I have are pretty amazing -- good grip and don't mark the
bottles. I'm not sure if the Ti ones could be better. I think I have
lost a bottle once in about six years on the king cages, and that was
on a bumpy dirt road downhill.

--
JT
****************************
Remove "remove" to reply
Visit http://www.jt10000.com
****************************

In article
<[email hidden].
com>,

Howard Kveck said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

SLAVE of THE STATE said:

On Jun 14, 5:45 am, Bob Schwartz <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Don't forget the titanium water bottle cage.

LOL.

I have King cages. They don't break like Al -- so I doubt they are
more expensive over the long run (none of my Kings have broken). They
grip the bottle great -- it never pops out over rough patches. They
don't seem to lose the grip over time. Yes, they're light.

I'm a cheap [censored], but even I had to admit they were worth the price.

Those are great cages. They should last the rest of your life. You can spend about
the same on some carbon cages that don't grip as well as the aluminum ones and will
probably break just as fast (or faster). King Cages are a good investment.

I understand perfectly the imponderables that accompany
ownership of this bottle cage. The following is for
amusement only.

King titanium bottle cage weight: 28 g.
The identical design in stainless steel (Blackburn) weight: 40 g.
Weight savings = $3.85 / g = $105 / oz.

--
Michael Press

In article <[email hidden]>,

John Forrest Tomlinson said:

Howard Kveck said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

SLAVE of THE STATE said:

On Jun 14, 5:45 am, Bob Schwartz <[email hidden]>
wrote:

> Don't forget the titanium water bottle cage.

LOL.

I have King cages. They don't break like Al -- so I doubt they are
more expensive over the long run (none of my Kings have broken). They
grip the bottle great -- it never pops out over rough patches. They
don't seem to lose the grip over time. Yes, they're light.

I'm a cheap [censored], but even I had to admit they were worth the price.

Those are great cages. They should last the rest of your life. You can
spend about
the same on some carbon cages that don't grip as well as the aluminum ones
and will
probably break just as fast (or faster). King Cages are a good investment.

I'm thinking of getting them, though I have to say that the steel King
cages I have are pretty amazing -- good grip and don't mark the
bottles. I'm not sure if the Ti ones could be better. I think I have
lost a bottle once in about six years on the king cages, and that was
on a bumpy dirt road downhill.

I went with the titanium Kings after having a rash of broken Blackburn cages (and
the associated bottle / liquids loss). I haven't had a bottle come out since (at
least on a King cage equipped bike - I did lose one out of an aluminum cage a couple
of years ago, which bounced back into my rear wheel and tore the valve stem off).

--
tanx,
Howard

Never take a tenant with a monkey.

remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok?

In article <[email hidden]>,

Michael Press said:

In article
<[email hidden].
com>,

Howard Kveck said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

SLAVE of THE STATE said:

On Jun 14, 5:45 am, Bob Schwartz <[email hidden]>
wrote:

> Don't forget the titanium water bottle cage.

LOL.

I have King cages. They don't break like Al -- so I doubt they are
more expensive over the long run (none of my Kings have broken). They
grip the bottle great -- it never pops out over rough patches. They
don't seem to lose the grip over time. Yes, they're light.

I'm a cheap [censored], but even I had to admit they were worth the price.

Those are great cages. They should last the rest of your life. You can
spend about
the same on some carbon cages that don't grip as well as the aluminum ones
and will
probably break just as fast (or faster). King Cages are a good investment.

I understand perfectly the imponderables that accompany
ownership of this bottle cage. The following is for
amusement only.

King titanium bottle cage weight: 28 g.
The identical design in stainless steel (Blackburn) weight: 40 g.
Weight savings = $3.85 / g = $105 / oz.

Huh, that *is* kind of amusing. A couple of things: I'd had poor luck with
Blackburn cages over the years, and when I got the Kings, I only paid $25 each. I
notice they've gone up a bit (heh). Still think they're worth it.

--
tanx,
Howard

Never take a tenant with a monkey.

remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok?

William Asher said:

Anyway, WTF is all this talk of bottle cages? I thought all the cool
master-fatty people had full time-trial monocoque frames setups with no
cages and used Camelbaks instead.

Dumbass,

LANCE's TT bike had an internal camelback. Anything less is for
trailer trash.

Bob Schwartz

In article
<[email hidden]>,
Bob Schwartz <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

William Asher said:

Anyway, WTF is all this talk of bottle cages? I thought all the cool
master-fatty people had full time-trial monocoque frames setups with no
cages and used Camelbaks instead.

Dumbass,

LANCE's TT bike had an internal camelback. Anything less is for
trailer trash.

And the bicycle got lighter as the ride progressed.

--
Michael Press

Michael Press said:

In article
<[email hidden]>,
Bob Schwartz <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

William Asher said:

Anyway, WTF is all this talk of bottle cages? I thought all the cool
master-fatty people had full time-trial monocoque frames setups with no
cages and used Camelbaks instead.

Quoted message said:

Dumbass,

Quoted message said:

LANCE's TT bike had an internal camelback. Anything less is for
trailer trash.

And the bicycle got lighter as the ride progressed.

--
Michael Press

When I want my bike to be lighter, like when I'm approaching a climb,
I just put my water bottles in my pockets.

Joseph

[email hidden] wrote:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

When I want my bike to be lighter, like when I'm approaching a climb,
I just put my water bottles in my pockets.

If you carry a tank of compressed hydrogen, as you start the climbs you can
fill the headspace of the camelbak, the frame, and your intestines with
hydrogen.

Alternatively, you can juggle the water bottles.

--
Bill Asher