Which recumbent for a beginner?



I've ridden a road bike for many years and I plan to continue to ride for
many more years, but I have friend who switched to a recumbent from a road
bike and loves it. I want to purchase a used recumbent, but I don't want to
spend more than $400.00. I realize that my options are limited but I want to
make sure that I will really enjoy it before spending alot more money. Any
recommendations as to which recumbent would be a good starter bike? I've
been watching Ebay, but I was also wondering if anyone had any other
suggestions as to where I could locate a bike in this price range. Thanks in
advance.
Steve
 
In alt.rec.bicycles.recumbent on Fri, 28 Jul 2006 00:27:14 GMT
[email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've ridden a road bike for many years and I plan to continue to ride for
> many more years, but I have friend who switched to a recumbent from a road
> bike and loves it. I want to purchase a used recumbent, but I don't want to
> spend more than $400.00. I realize that my options are limited but I want to


Would you say to someone "to see if you will like riding a bicycle,
buy one. But don't spend more than $100 on it"

Bents are a low volume item, so a $400 bent is like a $100 upright.
Or even a $50 one. You can find them and if you look hard you can
find a decent one second hand, but you have to look very very hard.

If you buy your $400 bent, spend another $100, buy a $100 upright, and
ride that for a year. Then compare the two...


Zebee
 
A couple of years ago I had a friend that was interested in riding bikes for
exercise. I had another friend that had a $100.00 road bike for sale. My
friend bought it and road for a couple of months and loved it. But due to
his traveling and family committments he couldn't ride as often as he would
like. He hasn't been on the bike for a year and says that he doesn't have
the time. Using your logic, my friend might have an unused $2,000.00 bike in
his garage rather than a $100.00 used bike. So to answer your question, I
probably would recommend spending a $100.00 on a road bike to someone that
may be interested in getting into riding.
 
[email protected] wrote:
> I've ridden a road bike for many years and I plan to continue to ride for
> many more years, but I have friend who switched to a recumbent from a road
> bike and loves it. I want to purchase a used recumbent, but I don't want to
> spend more than $400.00. I realize that my options are limited but I want to
> make sure that I will really enjoy it before spending alot more money. Any
> recommendations as to which recumbent would be a good starter bike?


Depends very much on what you want it /for/. "Recumbent" is not a very
useful term of description, or at least not more so than "upright".
What upright is a "good starter bike"? Well, if you want it for
shopping and round town or if you want it for fast day tours the answers
are totally different, and it's the same with 'bents.

So, what do you want it to *do*?

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
On ebay, if you shop around, you can find some BikeE's in the price range
you are talking about. I have never owned one myself but my understanding is
that owners have been happy with them. The reason for the low price is that
they are no longer being made. If you are patient and lucky you may pick up
a Trek or Vision for that price but won't be easy.

I have owned both the Trek and the Vision. I would say that I liked the
Vision better although I didn't like the seat as much. Generally I prefer
LWB and both the Trek and the Vision are SWB.

You certainly aren't going to get anything worth riding that is new for
$400.

Good luck.

Jeff
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've ridden a road bike for many years and I plan to continue to ride for
> many more years, but I have friend who switched to a recumbent from a road
> bike and loves it. I want to purchase a used recumbent, but I don't want
> to
> spend more than $400.00. I realize that my options are limited but I want
> to
> make sure that I will really enjoy it before spending alot more money. Any
> recommendations as to which recumbent would be a good starter bike? I've
> been watching Ebay, but I was also wondering if anyone had any other
> suggestions as to where I could locate a bike in this price range. Thanks
> in
> advance.
> Steve
 
<[email protected]> wrote
> I've ridden a road bike for many years and I plan to continue to ride for
> many more years, but I have friend who switched to a recumbent from a road
> bike and loves it. I want to purchase a used recumbent, but I don't want
> to
> spend more than $400.00.


I would start by asking your friend why he/she loves their recumbent.
And by asking if you can borrow it! %^) You need to calibrate your
expectations.

As others have pointed out, recumbents vary greatly in design and
target application. And rider preference plays a large role. Some
prefer long wheelbase, others short. You won't really know what
you might love or hate until you try.

Finding something for $400 will be a challenge for recumbents.
There are a number of used recumbent for sale lists on line.
There are several listings in the $600 range at:

http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/classifieds.cgi?view=bikes

However, unless you have a good idea what you want in a recumbent
based on riding several different types, you may find it difficult to
know which used bike in some far-away city might suit you, seat
unridden.

You could treat buying and trying recumbents as an educational
and entertainment expense. Buy the one you think you might
like, ride it for a while, sell it (small gain/loss), and buy another
(or not).

Jon Meinecke
 
[email protected] wrote:
> A couple of years ago I had a friend that was interested in riding bikes for
> exercise. I had another friend that had a $100.00 road bike for sale. My
> friend bought it and road for a couple of months and loved it. But due to
> his traveling and family committments he couldn't ride as often as he would
> like. He hasn't been on the bike for a year and says that he doesn't have
> the time. Using your logic, my friend might have an unused $2,000.00 bike in
> his garage rather than a $100.00 used bike. So to answer your question, I
> probably would recommend spending a $100.00 on a road bike to someone that
> may be interested in getting into riding.


-Yea but he could have sold that $2000 bike, and gotten most of what he
paid for it. Most people won't pay you $80 for a used bike that only
cost $100 new, you'd be lucky to get $25 for it at a yard sale after a
year of light use. And recumbents are smaller-volume products; they
always cost more than upright bikes.

Upright bikes are cheaper because they're mass-produced, but they aren't
comfortable to ride. It doesn't matter if the bike costs $200 or $2000,
it will make your butt, neck and hands hurt.

If you want something that is really comfortable to ride, you simply
have to pay the price to get something different than an upright bike.
Sun and Cycle Genius have CLWB's for around $600 new (a BikeE is a CLWB).
-----
As far as what to try--test ride as many different ones as you can.

Generally speaking-
--shorter wheelbase bikes tend to have more-jittery steering (though
there are things you can do to minimize this).
--bikes that have higher pedals (relative to the seat) tend to cause
more problems with numb feet.
--bikes that are more-reclined are more aerodynamic, but (aside from the
usual high rates of foot-circulation problems) they are intimidating for
a lot of people to ride in urban traffic.
--LWB bikes are the classic touring choice. The seat is upright and the
pedals are low, and they are easy for most people to ride--but people
tour on all kinds of recumbents.
--Recumbents in general are more difficult to transport (such as on
vehicle racks), and longer recumbents are more-difficult.
------

As for the BikeE, I am no expert on them, I WANTED one way back when but
never got around to buying one--but I remember that they had a seat
issue, with the seat backs cracking and breaking off. The BikeE company
was giving out improved seats for a while but that was years ago--the
company is long since closed, so if you have any problems with the frame
you may be totally on your own trying to fix the issue. There's ways to
check what seat a BikeE has (if it's the old or the new style).

If you are near St Louis, I have a Sun SWB I was considering getting rid
of for about that much. I am selling it only because the frame is too
short for me (I am 6'2", so if you are 5'10" or shorter it should fit
fine).
~~~~~
 
Thanks Doug for the info. I'm 6'2" as well, but thanks for the offer. I'll
continue to look and thanks for the advice. One of my limitations is that I
can only carry the bike around in a 4 door sedan. This limits me to a
shorter wheelbase although that will still be tight. I found a new Sun EZ
Speedster s at a bike shop today for $450.00. He said that they only had one
and wanted to sell it to get rid of it. It looks great. Any thoughts?
 
Well I really want to ride it 50 to 75 miles a week just to keep in shape. I
probably won't be able to ride it on my normal 50 mile rides on the weekend
with my upright friends, but I should be able to put a couple of rides a
week on it. Ultimately I would like to be able to ride with them on the
bent.
 
Hi,

I'm a brand new recumbent rider (~3 weeks). I just picked-up a BikeE Rx in
excellent condition on www.craigslist.com for $350. I love it! It's
comfortable and very easy to ride. The only problem with BikeE is that it
is difficult to find accessories for it. Anyone know where I can find a
kickstand? Regarding the seat recall I called a bike shop in my area that
sells bents and they said that they could do it, although I haven't brought
it in yet.

I shopped on ebay too, but the problem is that you won't be able to test
ride it and shipping is often $100 or more. I watched craigslist daily for
several months before finding mine.

Good Luck!

Bruce

"Jon Meinecke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> <[email protected]> wrote
>> I've ridden a road bike for many years and I plan to continue to ride for
>> many more years, but I have friend who switched to a recumbent from a
>> road
>> bike and loves it. I want to purchase a used recumbent, but I don't want
>> to
>> spend more than $400.00.

>
> I would start by asking your friend why he/she loves their recumbent.
> And by asking if you can borrow it! %^) You need to calibrate your
> expectations.
>
> As others have pointed out, recumbents vary greatly in design and
> target application. And rider preference plays a large role. Some
> prefer long wheelbase, others short. You won't really know what
> you might love or hate until you try.
>
> Finding something for $400 will be a challenge for recumbents.
> There are a number of used recumbent for sale lists on line.
> There are several listings in the $600 range at:
>
> http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/classifieds.cgi?view=bikes
>
> However, unless you have a good idea what you want in a recumbent
> based on riding several different types, you may find it difficult to
> know which used bike in some far-away city might suit you, seat
> unridden.
>
> You could treat buying and trying recumbents as an educational
> and entertainment expense. Buy the one you think you might
> like, ride it for a while, sell it (small gain/loss), and buy another
> (or not).
>
> Jon Meinecke
>
>
>
 
[email protected] wrote:
> Well I really want to ride it 50 to 75 miles a week just to keep in shape. I
> probably won't be able to ride it on my normal 50 mile rides on the weekend
> with my upright friends, but I should be able to put a couple of rides a
> week on it. Ultimately I would like to be able to ride with them on the
> bent.


Okay, in that case you need to avoid stuff like BikeEs, because
that's the 'bent equivalent of a Raleigh 20: nothing wrong at all
for its intended use, but you don't want to put in miles on it
given a choice. You could do the stay in shape bit, but your pals
might be waiting around for you unless they're dead trundly.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
[email protected] wrote:
> Thanks Doug for the info. I'm 6'2" as well, but thanks for the offer. I'll
> continue to look and thanks for the advice. One of my limitations is that I
> can only carry the bike around in a 4 door sedan. This limits me to a
> shorter wheelbase although that will still be tight. I found a new Sun EZ
> Speedster s at a bike shop today for $450.00. He said that they only had one
> and wanted to sell it to get rid of it. It looks great. Any thoughts?


I got mine (the mid-grade one) right when the came out in early 2004.
Now (2006) there are two different frame sizes, the "big" one is two
inches longer wheelbase than the other. I was told that the "original"
frame that I have would be the shorter size, and there was even an
aluminum (top-tier model) "long" frame on ebay a week or so ago for a
couple bills, but I really doubt that having two more inches would be
enough room for me. If they made one /six/ inches longer, I'd probably
look at just getting a longer frame and swapping everything over.

Transporting bents is -mostly- tough. Unless you drive a pickup truck,
I'd suggest you budget for some kind of car carrier as well. The Sun
Speedster I had would just barely lay in the back of the 4-door Explorer
I have, cramming it into a car would not be easy. I have a LWB now and
had to get a bumper rack for it, it wouldn't have fit inside the
Explorer usefully at all.

For sizing--I sit and extend a leg, while pointing my toe with it on the
pedal. Many people say to make sure you can extend your leg with the
pedak in the arch of your foot, but I found out that it was not enough
room for me.

I have a LWB now--Cycle Genius Falcon, it is nice for long rides but it
is not a particularly fast bike. To go fast, you want to get a highracer
(-or, if you find a good 20/26 SWB, consider converting it to a 26/26
highracer by changing the fork and wheel).
~
 
[email protected] wrote:
> I've ridden a road bike for many years and I plan to continue to ride for
> many more years, but I have friend who switched to a recumbent from a road
> bike and loves it. I want to purchase a used recumbent, but I don't want to
> spend more than $400.00. I realize that my options are limited but I want to
> make sure that I will really enjoy it before spending alot more money. Any
> recommendations as to which recumbent would be a good starter bike? I've
> been watching Ebay, but I was also wondering if anyone had any other
> suggestions as to where I could locate a bike in this price range. Thanks in
> advance.


If you are of shorter stature, a used round tube [1] RANS Tailwind
would be a fine choice, otherwise you will likely do well with a RANS
Rocket. These bikes can be found used in your price range, and are of
recent enough vintage that replacement/upgrade parts are easily
available. [2] RANS [3] is still in business (unlike several other
recumbent manufacturers such as ATP Vision and BikeE), and can supply
any proprietary parts. Both bikes are/were excellent values when new,
being at the bottom of the diminishing return curve, so they will not
be as easily outgrown as other entry level bikes may be.

There are many posts about each bike in the Google archives.

[1] The original square tube model is reputed to have significantly
inferior handling to the 1998 round tube redesign.
[2] Higher end bikes in the $400 price range will likely be in poor
condition, or so old they will be equipped with freewheel hubs (and the
associated narrow rear dropout spacing) and will lack studs for V-brake
mounting, which limits tire choices.
[3] <http://www.ransbikes.com/>.
--
Tom Sherman - Behind the Cheddar Curtain
Post Free or Die!
 
DougC wrote:
> ...To go fast, you want to get a highracer...


And to go even faster, get a state of the art lowracer with either a
tailbox that fits around the rider or uses a disc rear wheel as a
splitter plate.

--
Tom Sherman - Behind the Cheddar Curtain
Post Free or Die!
 
Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman wrote:
> DougC wrote:
>
>>...To go fast, you want to get a highracer...

>
>
> And to go even faster, get a state of the art lowracer with either a
> tailbox that fits around the rider or uses a disc rear wheel as a
> splitter plate.
>

Well I haven't owned one myself--but lowracers are said to be rather
daunting to ride in urban traffic (-if that is any concern). Not really
what I'd call a beginner bike. Also,,, the ones that leave the chain
draped alongside the front wheel look dumb. <:D
......
But even ignoring that--how many lowracers can you find for $400 used,
and that will fit inside of a car? (also we note the EasyRacers record
holders aren't lowriders)
-----
For maximum road speed it seems like most people end up on highracers,
even after they try the other types (LWB, lowracers, SWB's). I haven't
owned a low- or high-racer so I don't know the difference myself. And I
may never know.... I like my cranks low; I had some numb-feet on the SWB
and didn't like it. That never happens on the LWB.
~~~~~~
 
DougC wrote:
> Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman wrote:
> > DougC wrote:
> >
> >>...To go fast, you want to get a highracer...

> >
> >
> > And to go even faster, get a state of the art lowracer with either a
> > tailbox that fits around the rider or uses a disc rear wheel as a
> > splitter plate.
> >

> Well I haven't owned one myself--but lowracers are said to be rather
> daunting to ride in urban traffic (-if that is any concern). Not really
> what I'd call a beginner bike. Also,,, the ones that leave the chain
> draped alongside the front wheel look dumb. <:D.....


Well, I was really commenting on how to go fast, and not addressing
beginner recumbents in the $400 (US) range.

The least expensive highracer one is likely to run across [1] in the US
would be an early production Bacchetta Strada, and those would be more
than $400 unless the bike is in poor condition or the owner is unaware
of the bike's value.

> But even ignoring that--how many lowracers can you find for $400 used,
> and that will fit inside of a car? (also we note the EasyRacers record
> holders aren't lowi[racers])....


I have a lowracer that will fit into most small hatchbacks or sedans
with folding rear seats, but it did cost several times $400 used.

I believe that the only records still held by an Easy Racers designed
bike are some multiple rider records in the Double Gold Rush, with
riders on lowracers having broken those set in the single Gold Rush.
The Gold Rush was the dominant fully-faired racing bike in its day, but
to paraphrase the drag racers' saying, there is no substitute for low
frontal area.

> For maximum road speed it seems like most people end up on highracers,
> even after they try the other types (LWB, lowracers, SWB's). I haven't
> owned a low- or high-racer so I don't know the difference myself. And I
> may never know.... I like my cranks low; I had some numb-feet on the SWB
> and didn't like it. That never happens on the LWB....


To go really fast with a relatively low bottom bracket, I would suggest
a Rotator Pursuit with a front fairing and bodysock. Similarly set up
RANS Velocity 2 or Easy Racers Gold Rush Replica would be almost as
fast with a higher riding position. However, any of the three would be
much more than $400.

[1] I understand that highracers were popular (relatively speaking) in
the Netherlands before being generally replaced by lowracers and
semi-lowracers, so a person living there might find a relatively
inexpensive used highracer.

--
Tom Sherman - Behind the Cheddar Curtain
Post Free or Die!
 
"DougC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman wrote:
> > DougC wrote:
> >
> >>...To go fast, you want to get a highracer...

> >
> >
> > And to go even faster, get a state of the art lowracer with either a
> > tailbox that fits around the rider or uses a disc rear wheel as a
> > splitter plate.
> >

> Well I haven't owned one myself--but lowracers are said to be rather
> daunting to ride in urban traffic (-if that is any concern). Not really
> what I'd call a beginner bike. Also,,, the ones that leave the chain
> draped alongside the front wheel look dumb. <:D


I have almost 23,000 miles on my lowracer and most of that is in urban
traffic

> But even ignoring that--how many lowracers can you find for $400 used,
> and that will fit inside of a car? (also we note the EasyRacers record
> holders aren't lowriders)


Those EasyRacers were highly modified versions enclosed in full fairings,
its not like you can set any records with a standard version out of a dealer
 
"DougC" <[email protected]> wrote
> As for the BikeE, I am no expert on them, I WANTED one
> way back when but never got around to buying one


I bought one in '98 and still own it. A good "first recumbent" and
a great utility bike, still.

Mine is an AT/XL, probably from the time before they began
importing frames. There were some known issues with seats,
swing-arm, and frame welds and other parts, but my bike has
had none of these. There are many generic bike parts on
BikeEs and many BikeE custom parts that might require
some creativity to repair or replace. Not rocket science,
though. %^)

For someone who rides an upright road bike, I'm not sure a BikeE
would meet their expectations. Depends on how and where
they ride.

These bikes and probably other CLWB bikes excel at shorter,
utility, and rough-surface applications. Though I've ridden
my BikeE up to about 70 miles in a day and toured pulling a trailer,
I would choose to ride my Tour Easy or Volae that sort of
distance now. On the other hand, if I need to do an errand to
pick up a few groceries, or ride on gravel or dirt roads, the
BikeE is the bike of choice for me. In some ways, it is
the most "fun" of the three recumbents I have to ride.

On smooth roads, I would estimate that the BikeE is at least
10-15% less efficient than my Volae Sport (lighter bike and high-
pressure tires). The Tour Easy is somewhere between,
depending on tire configuration. For cruising, the TE is
tough to beat.

I bought NONE of my bikes after extensive test rides, though I don't
recommend that. %^) I rode the BikeE for less than 15 minutes
and only around the bike store parking lot. The Tour Easy, I bought
from out of state having never ridden one. And the Volae, I rode for
about 30 minutes. Combined, I have more than 11,000 miles on
the recumbents.

Few of us have access to a large variety of recumbents to test ride.
You can learn some things by reading reviews and asking questions.
As Doug said, buying used and being prepared to resell a recumbent
can ease some of the apprehension about which one to get.

Jon Meinecke
 
I want to purchase a used recumbent, but I don't want to
spend more than $400.00. I realize that my options are limited but I want to
make sure that I will really enjoy it before spending alot more money.Steve
An LBS near here has a couple of EZ Speesters marked at $425. They are nearly new, one is new, the other has a few demo miles on it. You'd have to pay shipping which would *probably* run around $100. They are not bad bikes for the money.
 
Which bike shop?
[email protected]
"Hull 697" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> [email protected] Wrote:
>> I want to purchase a used recumbent, but I don't want to
>> spend more than $400.00. I realize that my options are limited but I
>> want to
>> make sure that I will really enjoy it before spending alot more
>> money.Steve

> An LBS near here has a couple of EZ Speesters marked at $425. They are
> nearly new, one is new, the other has a few demo miles on it. You'd
> have to pay shipping which would *probably* run around $100. They are
> not bad bikes for the money.
>
>
> --
> Hull 697
>