Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Wheel truing question

Started by Psycholist · · Last activity · 4 posts · 964 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
2 March 2004
Last activity
2 March 2004
Original author
Psycholist
Posts
4
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
964
Views / 30 days
1

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–4 of 4
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. I have a relatively new, custom-built wheel. Wheelsmith XL14/17/14 spokes (24) laced radially to a
    Speedcific hub and a Velocity Aerohead rim. The wheel arrived nice and true, but after only a few
    rides it started to lose it and now I can't keep it in true.

    I'm no wheel builder, but shouldn't all the spokes on a radially-laced front wheel be tensioned
    quite similarly? I'm curious why, when I ping the spokes in this wheel they seem to alternate almost
    precisely ... ping ... pong ... ping ... pong -- two different tones. And I can true it up nice and
    take one ride and it's rubbing the brake shoes before I'm home.

    I had a rear wheel with this set I bought. I sent it back 'cuz it wasn't true when it arrived. The
    replacement I got has been excellent so far. I'm just wondering if the original set I got was
    built when the builder was on an off day or something and I need to send the front back to be
    replaced, too.

    Bob C.

  2. psycholist said:

    I have a relatively new, custom-built wheel. Wheelsmith XL14/17/14 spokes (24) laced radially
    to a Speedcific hub and a Velocity Aerohead rim. The wheel arrived nice and true, but after
    only a few rides it started to lose it and now I can't keep it in true.

    I'm no wheel builder, but shouldn't all the spokes on a radially-laced front wheel be tensioned
    quite similarly? I'm curious why, when I ping the spokes in this wheel they seem to alternate
    almost precisely ... ping ... pong ... ping ... pong -- two different tones. And I can true it up
    nice and take one ride and it's rubbing the brake shoes before I'm home.

    I had a rear wheel with this set I bought. I sent it back 'cuz it wasn't true when it arrived. The
    replacement I got has been excellent so far. I'm just wondering if the original set I got was
    built when the builder was on an off day or something and I need to send the front back to be
    replaced, too.

    Bob C.

    Any wheel with no dish will have equal tension on either side, by definition. The situation you
    described is what is found in a dished wheel, that is, the rim isn't centered between the flanges.
    Your front wheel is either a dished wheel, such as a disc brake wheel, or it was built incorrectly.

    Even if a wheel is laced and trued properly, it won't stay that way unless the spokes are stress-
    relieved and tensioned properly.

    I would suggest that the best thing to do is to learn to do these steps. It isn't all that difficult
    and takes very little in equipment and then you have a useful skill. But if you don't feel like
    doing that, take that wheel back where you got it. The seller may be able to improve it, but it's
    possible that they can't. There are plenty of shops that don't know how to build good wheels.

    --
    Ted Bennett Portland OR

  3. In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a relatively new, custom-built wheel. Wheelsmith XL14/17/14 spokes (24) laced radially
    to a Speedcific hub and a Velocity Aerohead rim. The wheel arrived nice and true, but after
    only a few rides it started to lose it and now I can't keep it in true.

    I'm no wheel builder, but shouldn't all the spokes on a radially-laced front wheel be tensioned
    quite similarly?

    If well built, yes.

    Quoted message said:

    I'm curious why, when I ping the spokes in this wheel they seem to alternate almost precisely ...
    ping ... pong ... ping ... pong -- two different tones. And I can true it up nice and take one ride
    and it's rubbing the brake shoes before I'm home.

    Sounds like a poorly built wheel.

    Quoted message said:

    I had a rear wheel with this set I bought. I sent it back 'cuz it wasn't true when it arrived. The
    replacement I got has been excellent so far. I'm just wondering if the original set I got was
    built when the builder was on an off day or something and I need to send the front back to be
    replaced, too.

    It sounds like the wheels were built with too low a tension. It is hard to get the wheels up to the
    necessary tension using 14/17/14 spokes. The center section is so thin that when you are getting the
    spokes up to tension, they tend to wind up. You have to be carefull not to let the spokes wind up
    too much or the spokes might break. With low spoke count wheels the tension necessarily has to be
    higher, so it is even harder to get the tension right without breaking a spoke.
    -------------
    Alex

  4. psycholist-<< I have a relatively new, custom-built wheel. Wheelsmith
    XL14/17/14 spokes (24) laced radially to a Speedcific hub and a Velocity Aerohead rim. The wheel
    arrived nice and true, but after only a few rides it started to lose it and now I can't keep
    it in true. >><BR><BR>

    I suspect that either the tension wasn't proper for the wheel when new or there was lots of spoke
    windup in the wheel when new. Did it ping a lot first ride? If not, the tension is probably low, and
    now perhaps the rim is deformed, so consistent tension is going to be tough.

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.