DougC said:I had a SWB and didn't like how the steering felt, so I got a LWB
instead. The 20/26 LWB rides great but being of taller/heavier stature,
this means that most of my weight is on the rear wheel. I had been
keeping both tires at around 100 PSI but it recently occurred to me that
the tires should both /deflect/ approximately equally when under load,
meaning that the front tire needed a lot less air pressure than the rear
did. Both these tires are 1.5" Kendas.
I aired the front down to about 55 PSI and went out for a few miles, it
was obviously softer but didn't improve any aspect of handling that I
could immediately tell. Logically it must have more rolling resistance
at lower pressure but I couldn't really feel that. I'll leave it for a
bit and see if I notice anything.
What weight distribution does your usual bike have, and what wheel sizes
and tire pressures do you run?
It is possible to ride at least some LWB bicycles [1] with no air
pressure (gage) in the tube, which is obviously the absolute lower
limit. I would suggest keeping at least enough air pressure to prevent
most pinch flats - practical lower limit.
Rolling resistance will decrease to a point with higher tire pressure,
beyond which the increased vertical accelerations over bumps will
actually make the bicycle slower on all but near perfect surfaces - the
practical upper limit.
I would use the lower of the rated maximum pressure, or where the ride
of the front wheel over bumps becomes excessively harsh.
[1] I had a puncture on the front tire on a RANS Wave to Tailwind
conversion [2] and noticed the bike felt sluggish in speed and
handling. I did not confirm that the tire was flat until I stopped
riding (as the fender blocks the view of the tire while seated on the
bicycle).
[2] <http://www.ransbikes.com/Gallery/Archive/Sherman.htm>.
--
Tom Sherman - Behind the Cheddar Curtain
Post Free or Die!
