Trek OCLV 9.9 Pro - durability?

Jesper Rasmussen at [email hidden] wrote on 6/27/03 8:18 AM:

Quoted message said:

I thinking of buying a used '01 Trek OCLV 9.9 Pro. The seller says he's been using the bike for
offroad winter training and have driven app. 6000 km (3750 miles) on it! According to him the
frame is in good condition with only the scratches and marks offroad-racing always gives.

Winter training off-road is probably the nastiest season for component wear. Mild winters = mud and
goop through drivetrain and bearing surfaces. Cold winters = salt on the roads? freezing temps, etc.

If, as you say, the seller was racing it, that will compound the stresses. Clean the frame and look
for cracking under bright lights.

Quoted message said:

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Quoted message said:

PS: What would be a fair price for a stock '01 bike considering the use? (components more or less
identical to the new Elite 9.8: <http://www.trekbikes.com/bikes/2003/mountain/elite98.jsp>)
Please answer in percent of price of a new Elite 9.8 (I'm in Denmark so MSRPs and resell
values can't be compared directly).

As a starting point, I wouldn't pay more than half of a brand-new model with factory warranty. It
drops down from there with use/wear/etc.

Jim Edgar said:

Winter training off-road is probably the nastiest season for component wear. Mild winters = mud
and goop through drivetrain and bearing surfaces. Cold winters = salt on the roads? freezing
temps, etc.

We have lots of mud and goop AND salty roads during winter here in Denmark :o(

Quoted message said:

If, as you say, the seller was racing it, that will compound the stresses. Clean the frame and
look for cracking under bright lights.

OK - any particular spots to look at? BB/chainstay, headtube or ? (IIRC I read something about
cracking at the BB/chainstays on early models?)

Quoted message said:

As a starting point, I wouldn't pay more than half of a brand-new model with factory warranty. It
drops down from there with use/wear/etc.

Sounds as a reasonably guideline.

Thanks!

--
/Jesper

Replace invalid with dk if replying by email!

Jesper Rasmussen at [email hidden] wrote on 6/27/03 9:40 AM:

Quoted message said:

Jim Edgar said:

If, as you say, the seller was racing it, that will compound the stresses. Clean the frame and
look for cracking under bright lights.

OK - any particular spots to look at? BB/chainstay, headtube or ? (IIRC I read something about
cracking at the BB/chainstays on early models?)

Your inclinations are correct:

Under the headtube as it joins to the downtube - stresses from fork/hard landings

BB/chainstay - stress from landings, for example

Also Check frame where the tires look like they might rub - a bit of crud on tightly fitting tires
can grind quite a bit of carbon fibre quite quickly.

And you could also - Take wheels off - spin axles by hand - feel for grittiness Look at cogset (on
rear wheel) are they "shark fins" or relatively symmetrical (there will be "odd" looking cogs by
design - go look at a brand new cogset first). Look at chainrings for same. While the wheels are
off, gently lift the chain off the chainrings. Move cranks by hand - feel for grittiness.

Put it all back together. Tighten everything.

Grab front brake lever with left hand (or right if it's set up that way) and pull - straddle the
back wheel and set your chest/stomach on the saddle - put your right hand under the headtube where
it junctions with the fork. Push yourself forward with your feet and release. Feel for loosness in
headset cups, feel for clunking in the headtube.

That's sort of the highlights. Then pay attention for weird noises or actions when you test ride it.

Hope that helps,

-- Jim