Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Trek 970 MTB needs a new fork....

Started by Alan Hoyle · · Last activity · 5 posts · 1,589 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
27 January 2006
Last activity
30 January 2006
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Alan Hoyle
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  1. I have a '94 or '95 Trek 970 MTB. Back in '96, I had the fork
    replaced with a Rock Shox Judy FSX. Several years ago the elastomers
    wore out and gave me no damping and I had a friend replace them with
    the ones I had left over in my kit. Just recently, I noticed that
    they've worn out and disintegrated again, but I'm unencumbered by
    replacements now. At some point along the line, I also replaced the
    original cantilever brakes with XT V-Brakes.

    I don't ride on the trails all that often (twice in the past few
    years) and lately I've just used it as a commuter, but I still want
    the option of doing trail riding. The local store offered me a couple
    of options: rigid steel $110 installed, and an inexpensive suspension
    one for $170 installed.

    Back when I got my Judy, I seem to recall that the cheap ones were
    [censored], is that still the case?

    I think I have a threadless steerer, but I don't know if it's 1" or 1
    1/8". How can I tell?

    I was looking at Nashbar and saw a few things that might be
    interesting (Carbon rigid MTB fork?), but I probably don't want to
    drop too much money into it....

    -alan

    --
    Alan Hoyle - [email hidden] - http://www.alanhoyle.com/
    "I don't want the world, I just want your half." -TMBG
    Get Horizontal, Play Ultimate.

  2. I have a '94 or '95 Trek 970 MTB. Back in '96, I had the fork
    replaced with a Rock Shox Judy FSX. Several years ago the elastomers
    wore out and gave me no damping and I had a friend replace them with
    the ones I had left over in my kit. Just recently, I noticed that
    they've worn out and disintegrated again, but I'm unencumbered by
    replacements now. At some point along the line, I also replaced the
    original cantilever brakes with XT V-Brakes.

    I don't ride on the trails all that often (twice in the past few
    years) and lately I've just used it as a commuter, but I still want
    the option of doing trail riding. The local store offered me a couple
    of options: rigid steel $110 installed, and an inexpensive suspension
    one for $170 installed.

    Back when I got my Judy, I seem to recall that the cheap ones were
    [censored], is that still the case?

    I think I have a threadless steerer, but I don't know if it's 1" or 1
    1/8". How can I tell?

    I was looking at Nashbar and saw a few things that might be
    interesting (Carbon rigid MTB fork?), but I probably don't want to
    drop too much money into it....

    -alan

    --
    Alan Hoyle - [email hidden] - http://www.alanhoyle.com/
    "I don't want the world, I just want your half." -TMBG
    Get Horizontal, Play Ultimate.

  3. Alan Hoyle said:

    I have a '94 or '95 Trek 970 MTB. Back in '96, I had the fork
    replaced with a Rock Shox Judy FSX. Several years ago the elastomers
    wore out and gave me no damping and I had a friend replace them with
    the ones I had left over in my kit. Just recently, I noticed that
    they've worn out and disintegrated again, but I'm unencumbered by
    replacements now. At some point along the line, I also replaced the
    original cantilever brakes with XT V-Brakes.

    I don't ride on the trails all that often (twice in the past few
    years) and lately I've just used it as a commuter, but I still want
    the option of doing trail riding. The local store offered me a couple
    of options: rigid steel $110 installed, and an inexpensive suspension
    one for $170 installed.

    Back when I got my Judy, I seem to recall that the cheap ones were
    [censored], is that still the case?

    Yes. It's much, much better to have an average rigid cromo fork than a
    cheap suspension fork on a bike that sees the kind of use you describe.

    Quoted message said:

    I think I have a threadless steerer, but I don't know if it's 1" or 1
    1/8". How can I tell?

    Threadless stems clamp around the steerer and have bolts that make this
    pretty obvious. Threaded stems clamp inside the steerer.

    1" threadless steerers have a 1" outside diameter, 1 1/8"'s have 1
    1/8". Remove the top cap, the little circular plate above the stem.
    Look down and you can see the stem clamping around the steerer. There
    may be a shim between the 2. Hold a ruler across the stem's opening and
    eyeball the steerer's outside diameter.

    Quoted message said:

    I was looking at Nashbar and saw a few things that might be
    interesting (Carbon rigid MTB fork?), but I probably don't want to
    drop too much money into it....

    Skip it. Note that you should get a suspension-corrected rigid fork if
    your bike came with a suspension fork, and a non-suspension-corrected
    one if not.

    Quoted message said:

    -alan

    --
    Alan Hoyle - [email hidden] - http://www.alanhoyle.com/
    "I don't want the world, I just want your half." -TMBG
    Get Horizontal, Play Ultimate.

  4. Alan Hoyle said:

    I have a '94 or '95 Trek 970 MTB. Back in '96, I had the fork
    replaced with a Rock Shox Judy FSX. Several years ago the elastomers
    wore out and gave me no damping and I had a friend replace them with
    the ones I had left over in my kit. Just recently, I noticed that
    they've worn out and disintegrated again, but I'm unencumbered by
    replacements now. At some point along the line, I also replaced the
    original cantilever brakes with XT V-Brakes.

    I don't ride on the trails all that often (twice in the past few
    years) and lately I've just used it as a commuter, but I still want
    the option of doing trail riding. The local store offered me a couple
    of options: rigid steel $110 installed, and an inexpensive suspension
    one for $170 installed.

    Back when I got my Judy, I seem to recall that the cheap ones were
    [censored], is that still the case?

    Yes. It's much, much better to have an average rigid cromo fork than a
    cheap suspension fork on a bike that sees the kind of use you describe.

    Quoted message said:

    I think I have a threadless steerer, but I don't know if it's 1" or 1
    1/8". How can I tell?

    Threadless stems clamp around the steerer and have bolts that make this
    pretty obvious. Threaded stems clamp inside the steerer.

    1" threadless steerers have a 1" outside diameter, 1 1/8"'s have 1
    1/8". Remove the top cap, the little circular plate above the stem.
    Look down and you can see the stem clamping around the steerer. There
    may be a shim between the 2. Hold a ruler across the stem's opening and
    eyeball the steerer's outside diameter.

    Quoted message said:

    I was looking at Nashbar and saw a few things that might be
    interesting (Carbon rigid MTB fork?), but I probably don't want to
    drop too much money into it....

    Skip it. Note that you should get a suspension-corrected rigid fork if
    your bike came with a suspension fork, and a non-suspension-corrected
    one if not.

    Quoted message said:

    -alan

    --
    Alan Hoyle - [email hidden] - http://www.alanhoyle.com/
    "I don't want the world, I just want your half." -TMBG
    Get Horizontal, Play Ultimate.

  5. Nate Knutson said:

    Alan Hoyle wrote:

    Quoted message said:

    Yes. It's much, much better to have an average rigid cromo fork than a
    cheap suspension fork on a bike that sees the kind of use you describe.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I think I have a threadless steerer, but I don't know if it's 1" or 1
    1/8". How can I tell?

    Quoted message said:

    Threadless stems clamp around the steerer and have bolts that make this
    pretty obvious. Threaded stems clamp inside the steerer.

    The stem on my bike has the bolts internally and hides them with a
    plastic cap on the side. It seems to be a 1 1/8 steerer. A friend
    offered me his old suspension fork for even less money than a new
    rigid fork. As I'd rather spend the money on a something else (and
    still have something that would be decent off-road since my bike was
    high-end for the time and has had components upgraded), I might just
    go with that instead of anything new.

    -alan

    --
    Alan Hoyle - [email hidden] - http://www.alanhoyle.com/
    "I don't want the world, I just want your half." -TMBG
    Get Horizontal, Play Ultimate.

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