Set off in rain from Cambridge at about 0230 on Saturday. Wasn't sure how the weather would be in
the Lakes, though the last forcasts I had seen had looked promising. Had the car parked at Wha House
and was away on the Terrace Route by 0845. The cloud was brushing the high tops, and the sun hadn't
yet burned through, but it looked as if there was at least going to be better visibility than on
some of my recent jaunts. I'd brought my trusty ice axe, but it clearly wasn't needed; there was
just a trace of snow on the tops of Scafell and the Pike.
I would normally enter Upper Eskdale via Taw House Farm, but wanted to try to get there via the
Terrace Route. Stopped for a bite to eat near a small waterfall in Cowcove Beck; the sky was
still grey, but it was looking a bit more promising. The ground was reddish with marsh grass,
and I anticipated wet feet heading down to Upper Eskdale! I followed the Terrace Route to the
prominant stone below Slight Side, and then turned off up to the col with High Scarth Crag,
which was at least reasonably dry.
This part of the District is very quiet (it was the first time I'd ever been there). There were
magnificent views into Upper Eskdale itself, and I seriously thought about camping there.
(There was no wind all day, so shelter wasn't a problem.) Then down to the main path near
Sampson's Stones. Although the diversion from the Terrace Route is interesting, AW is right
that the Taw House route is better.
Stopped for lunch at the foot of Cam Spout, and refilled my water bottle. This breaks all sorts
of rules (Hall Beck is much bigger than a stream, and receives a lot of tributories), but Cam
Spout is still the place where generations of walkers have got a drink. Long may this continue.
The sun came out while I was seated comfortably on a smooth rock. The low, slightly watery sun
brought out the detail on the flank of Esk Pike, and of the crags high above near Scafell Pike
itself. I don't think I've ever seen Upper Eskdale look as beautiful. Left my lunch spot to
walk beside Esk Buttress, and then climb beside the River Esk towards Esk Hause. There was a
bit of a suntrap a little way away from the path, where a waterfall filled a pool; I got in. I
then got out again. Very rapidly! But it was a pleasant dip, and astonishing to be able to do
this in November.
I got to Esk Hause (the Hause proper, not the shelter a little below it) and was delighted
that I had the complete panoramic view. I was also astonished at how few people there were
around; the shelter was deserted, with one or two people taking the paths. I've never seen the
place so quiet.
Made the top of Esk Pike, and checked AW's panorama, at about 1430. The sun still seemed high
in the sky, and it seemed incredible that it would be setting in just an hour and a half. But
mindful of this, I headed off to Pike de Bield for a snack, and then rapidly down the south
ridge. It was rather difficult to see the ground conditions with the low sun in my eyes; I
ended up in boggy ground on occasion. I also realised that time was pressing for me to navigate
the crags down to Scar Lathing, where I'd intended to camp for the night. So I headed right,
down steep but easy grass slopes towards the Great Moss. Footpaths across it were clear, but I
just took a straight line over it with no difficulty (apart from the odd wet patch). I hunted
around for a camp site while the light faded, moving towards Cam Spout (and having a final plan
that, if all else failed, I'd follow the river in the dark to Scar Lathing).
In the end, I camped on a small piece of flat grass at the foot of Cam Spout itself. A dramatic
spot, but not one I'd seriously recommend as
(a) the stream is very noisy (though this never bothers me), and (b) it is right on the path. But I
found myself quite comfortable, and the views of the cloud rolling over the high hills as the
light faded were astonishing. I'd left my big water bottle outside the tent and went to collect
it well after sunset. There was no moon, and the clear sky was full to the brim with stars. It
simply took my breath away. There was no wind at all during the night.
Headed off next morning about 0930. I'd originally planned to climb Hard Knott from Scar
Lathing, but this was now a bit of a valley walk away. So I treated myself and climbed the Cam
Spout ridge of Scafell for the first time. This ridge looks quite unassailable from the valley
itself, but its north edge is grassy and quite easy; AW comments that one can climb it without
encountering scree at all.
The mist was hanging around 2000 feet, but there were wide views over towards Scafell Pike and
the valley itself. There was a fine flat piece of ground on the ridge, but unfortunately too
wet for camping. The ridge was mildly scrambly in places, and a little exposed, but nothing to
write home about. Finally reached the main ridge, and headed right to the summit, which was
further than I had expected.
The summit cairn was sporting something that looked like a half-eaten jacket potato, and I
muttered to myself about untidy walkers. When I got closer, I realised that it was a rotting
white rose. According to a card wrapped in cellophane tucked into the cairn, the rose was in
memory of a walker. I left it respectfully alone.
Trying to find the top of the Cam Spout ridge in descent was interesting. Fortunately, I
managed to find the path along the ridge this time; it keeps close to the escarpment, but is
easier and safer than trying the boulder fields in the slippery conditions (it was quite damp,
with the odd flurry of sleet). Interestingly, there are scree-shod paths down either side of
the ridge; one even appears marked on the OS Leisure map. I'll investigate them some time, but
they didn't appeal for descent. When looking for the ridge (at 2772 feet, according to my
altimeter), make sure that you find something grassy and rocky, which starts off fairly level;
if you see scree, you've got it wrong.
I didn't take the ridge, but went along to Slight Side, and down towards the Terrace Route. Met
a couple of men who were also camping out, judging by the size of their rucksacks. I felt glad
I had been able to shed at least a bit of the load I carried when I first started backpacking!
Then down along the Terrace Route; I stopped for a dip in Catcove Beck, and had my lunch in the
sun. The Route becomes hard to follow near a cairn by a flat crag (I've wrongly descended the
stream here before now). The trick is to look to the other side of the stream for the main
path. And so gently and quite rapidly down to the car, and the long drive home, not helped by
road works on the A66! It was raining again when I got back to Cambridge.
A fabulous weekend, made even better by the superb and unseasonal weather. If there is a
heaven, and it is Eskdale, then I shall be satisfied.
Mark
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Mark Manning [email hidden]