I just got a pair of Tektro(RX 2.0) top-mounted brake levers for the cross bike I'm building. The instructions say that you need to run a full length of brake housing for the rear brake, that is, between the top tube bosses on the bike. I'm having a hard time seeing why this is necessary and would like to avoid buying problem solvers and more housing.
Has anyone else set these or similar levers up and what was your experience with running the rear brake housing?
I just got a pair of Tektro(RX 2.0) top-mounted brake levers for the cross bike I'm building. The instructions say that you need to run a full length of brake housing for the rear brake, that is, between the top tube bosses on the bike.
Balderdash!
Quoted message said:
I'm having a hard time seeing why this is necessary
It isn't.
Quoted message said:
Has anyone else set these or similar levers up and what was your experience with running the rear brake housing?
No problem.
Sheldon "Ignore That Nonsense" Brown +---------------------------------------------+ | "It's perfectly intelligible," | the captain said, in an offended tone, | "to anyone that | understands such things." | +---------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗
Sheldon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
One of the Alexes said:
I just got a pair of Tektro(RX 2.0) top-mounted brake levers for the cross bike I'm building. The instructions say that you need to run a full length of brake housing for the rear brake, that is, between the top tube bosses on the bike.
Balderdash!
Quoted message said:
I'm having a hard time seeing why this is necessary
It isn't.
Quoted message said:
Has anyone else set these or similar levers up and what was your experience with running the rear brake housing?
No problem.
Sheldon "Ignore That Nonsense" Brown +---------------------------------------------+ | "It's perfectly intelligible," | the captain said, in an offended tone, | "to anyone that | understands such things." | +---------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗
I set my own up without the full housing (unsurprisingly, theyre doing fine), and even posted to ask why the instructions said to run full housing. i dont think i ever got a response as to why tektro reccomended this.
any ideas?
it is my understanding that the more housing there is, the squooshier the brake. as long as you dont think the braze ons are going to pop off, i cant fathom an exlpanation.
Sheldon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
One of the Alexes said:
The instructions say that you need to run a full length of brake housing for the rear brake... I'm having a hard time seeing why this is necessary
It isn't.
Full-length cable outers are frequently used on mountain bikes (and one would assume cross bikes), to limit the number of points where mud and gunge can get in to the cable.
There's a trade off between initial performance (straight out of the workshop, 2-piece cable outers don't compress as much) and longevity of performance (after a few hours in the mud, 1-piece cable outers aren't as stiff and sticky with mud).
My personal preference is for a 3/4 rear derailer cable outer (exposed cable across the top tube, enclosed down the seat stay), and "standard" brake outers. I zip-tie the cable outer next to the stops that it was supposed to go through.