Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

time atac pedals - advice sought

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Published
2 June 2008
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3 June 2008
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  1. Hi - I'm using some circa 2000 atac alium pedals on my mtb and
    considering upgrading (?) to the newer xs or roc atacs (just the CrMo/
    composite ones - not the pricey carbons).

    I'm very satisified with the pedal-cleat action and would only switch
    because the xs and roc pedals have smaller bodies and would provide
    better rock clearance.

    Could anyone tell me if there is any significant difference in the
    clipping mechanism, feel, or durability between what I have and the
    newer ones I've mentioned.

    Thanks much.

    Chris

  2. On Jun 2, 3:46 pm, "[email hidden]" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Hi - I'm using some circa 2000 atac alium pedals on my mtb and
    considering upgrading (?) to the newer xs or roc atacs (just the CrMo/
    composite ones - not the pricey carbons).

    I'm very satisified with the pedal-cleat action and would only switch
    because the xs and roc pedals have smaller bodies and would provide
    better rock clearance.

    Could anyone tell me if there is any significant difference in the
    clipping mechanism, feel, or durability between what I have and the
    newer ones I've mentioned.

    Thanks much.

    Chris

    I have at least one pair of almost every ATAC pedal and they all feel
    the same to me. The plastic ones squeak a bit with SIDI shoes but it
    doesn't bother me. And I've only ever had significant problems with
    the weird ones, like the Cyclo and freeride versions.

    -Vee

  3. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi - I'm using some circa 2000 atac alium pedals on my mtb and
    considering upgrading (?) to the newer xs or roc atacs (just the CrMo/
    composite ones - not the pricey carbons).

    I'm very satisified with the pedal-cleat action and would only switch
    because the xs and roc pedals have smaller bodies and would provide
    better rock clearance.

    Could anyone tell me if there is any significant difference in the
    clipping mechanism, feel, or durability between what I have and the
    newer ones I've mentioned.

    I've been riding the Crank Bros pedals and I came across a problem with them
    that we should probably understand:

    The pedal is made from steel but the cleats are made from bronze or some
    other copper based material. This would be perfectly acceptable but the
    failure mode of this combination turns out to be that the cleat wears quite
    rapidly. Two sets of cleats only wore about 1,500 miles each before they
    started popping out.

    And the "popping out" part isn't a good thing either.

    As Shimano SPD's wear, the release becomes harder and harder until the shoe
    starts getting almost impossible to get out of the danged pedal. But that
    does signal you that you need to replace the cleat. Also the cleats are
    steel and wear quite slowly.

    Since Crank Bros. pedal's cleats wear by pushing the bronze around it forms
    a bump to the inside so that if you turn your heal inwards it becomes
    progressively easier for your foot to pop out of the pedal with the
    slightest inward motion of your heal. Pedaling sometimes causes your heal to
    rotate inward a small amount and with enough wear on the Crank Bros. cleats
    this is enough to release the cleat from the pedal.

    Now, except for this problem I prefer the Crank Bros. pedals to any others.
    They are cheap, simple and other than this problem - reliable. I use the
    X-pedals but if you want to have some surface so that you can ride with
    street shoes on occasionally, they have the modified platform pedals as
    well.

    But covered in bruises, scars and healing road rash as I presently am, I
    believe that the cleats could be better designed.

    There is a question about Time pedals - which failure mode do they have?

  4. Tom Kunich' cyclintom@yahoo. com said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi - I'm using some circa 2000 atac alium pedals on my mtb and
    considering upgrading (?) to the newer xs or roc atacs (just the CrMo/
    composite ones - not the pricey carbons).

    Quoted message said:

    I'm very satisified with the pedal-cleat action and would only switch
    because the xs and roc pedals have smaller bodies and would provide
    better rock clearance.

    Quoted message said:

    Could anyone tell me if there is any significant difference in the
    clipping mechanism, feel, or durability between what I have and the
    newer ones I've mentioned.

    I've been riding the Crank Bros pedals and I came across a problem with them
    that we should probably understand:

    The pedal is made from steel but the cleats are made from bronze or some
    other copper based material. This would be perfectly acceptable but the
    failure mode of this combination turns out to be that the cleat wears quite
    rapidly. Two sets of cleats only wore about 1,500 miles each before they
    started popping out.

    And the "popping out" part isn't a good thing either.

    As Shimano SPD's wear, the release becomes harder and harder until the shoe
    starts getting almost impossible to get out of the danged pedal. But that
    does signal you that you need to replace the cleat. Also the cleats are
    steel and wear quite slowly.

    Since Crank Bros. pedal's cleats wear by pushing the bronze around it forms
    a bump to the inside so that if you turn your heal inwards it becomes
    progressively easier for your foot to pop out of the pedal with the
    slightest inward motion of your heal. Pedaling sometimes causes your heal to
    rotate inward a small amount and with enough wear on the Crank Bros. cleats
    this is enough to release the cleat from the pedal.

    Now, except for this problem I prefer the Crank Bros. pedals to any others.
    They are cheap, simple and other than this problem - reliable. I use the
    X-pedals but if you want to have some surface so that you can ride with
    street shoes on occasionally, they have the modified platform pedals as
    well.

    But covered in bruises, scars and healing road rash as I presently am, I
    believe that the cleats could be better designed.

    There is a question about Time pedals - which failure mode do they have?

    Times are much more reliable than the Crank Bros. No comparison.

    The Time cleats also wear quickly, but I believe they have to be
    pretty soft so as to not progressively destroy the rails. There is no
    inadvertent unclipping with Time pedals until the cleats are extremely
    worn.

  5. Quoted message said:

    Hi - I'm using some circa 2000 atac alium pedals on my mtb and
    considering upgrading (?) to the newer xs or roc atacs (just the CrMo/
    composite ones - not the pricey carbons).

    Quoted message said:

    I'm very satisified with the pedal-cleat action and would only switch
    because the xs and roc pedals have smaller bodies and would provide
    better rock clearance.

    Quoted message said:

    Could anyone tell me if there is any significant difference in the
    clipping mechanism, feel, or durability between what I have and the
    newer ones I've mentioned.

    I have had both Aliums and higher-end ATACs (XE, XS, and XS Carbon).
    They feel about the same, but the Aliums seem to have a bit more issue
    where the sole of the shoes hits the pedals. This never caused me to
    get stuck on the Aliums, but it did seem to cause a bit more
    resistance to release than the higher-end models. I think that issue
    was because of the pedal shape, not the spring shape.

    I definitely wouldn't bother with the Carbon models. The XE model
    (with non-adustable tension and appear to be discontinued) were plenty
    tight and never released spontaneously for me. I only got the XS and
    XS Carbons because I got good deals on them.

    -alan

    --
    Alan Hoyle - [email hidden] - http://www.alanhoyle.com/

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