Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt



R

Robert Lee

Guest
Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt

I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
hex bolt off under these circumstances?
 
Robert Lee wrote:
> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>
> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
> hex bolt off under these circumstances?

if the head is protruding, you might be able to cut a cross that will
allow a philips to unscrew your bolt; many years ago a truck mechanic
showed me a counter drill bit that had a left hand twist, he said he
used it as an extractor, as you drill in it will bite and unsrcew your
bolt.
 
On Jan 18, 11:46 am, Robert Lee <[email protected]> wrote:
> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>
> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
> hex bolt off under these circumstances?



Robert Lee wrote:
> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>
> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
> hex bolt off under these circumstances?


>From the sounds of it (depression in the head) you're describing a
socket head cap screw as opposed to a hex bolt. Either way, I've been
sucessful in the past notching the screw (or bolt) with a very small
dremel cutting wheel, and then unthreading it with a screwdriver. This
depends on the size of the screw, the proximity of the stem it's
recessed in and how concerned you are with a mark in the stem.

Another option is an extracter. It's something of a modified drill bit
that should drill into the screw itself, and then thread it out. I
believe they are reverse thread.

I'd wait & hope for a better idea before going with plan #1, but it can
work in a pinch if you have access to a dremel & not an extracter (a
far less common tool).
 
On Jan 18, 11:46 am, Robert Lee <[email protected]> wrote:
> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>
> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
> hex bolt off under these circumstances?



Robert Lee wrote:
> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>
> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
> hex bolt off under these circumstances?


>From the sounds of it (depression in the head) you're describing a
socket head cap screw as opposed to a hex bolt. Either way, I've been
sucessful in the past notching the screw (or bolt) with a very small
dremel cutting wheel, and then unthreading it with a screwdriver. This
depends on the size of the screw, the proximity of the stem it's
recessed in and how concerned you are with a mark in the stem.

Another option is an extracter. It's something of a modified drill bit
that should drill into the screw itself, and then thread it out. I
believe they are reverse thread.

I'd wait & hope for a better idea before going with plan #1, but it can
work in a pinch if you have access to a dremel & not an extracter (a
far less common tool).
 
"Robert Lee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>
> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
> hex bolt off under these circumstances?

A suitably sized torx bit has been known to work - knock it in and turn. Get
a new bolt afterwards.

cheers,
clive
 
Robert Lee wrote:
> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>
> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
> hex bolt off under these circumstances?

Use a drill that has the same diameter as the threads of the bolt.
Drill straight into the ruined socket carefully until the ruined head
falls off. Once you unscrew the other bolts are remove the face plate,
you can grab it by the exposed part and remove it too.

Joseph
 
Robert Lee wrote:
> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>
> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
> hex bolt off under these circumstances?

If you can't quite bring yourself to use power tools on your stripped
out binder bolt, obtain a small amount of epoxy (e.g., J-B Weld) and a
sacrificial hex wrench of the appropriate size, epoxy the wrench into
the bolt, let it dry, etc.
 
I guess you mean it's an Allen socket head. Before you do anything else,
make sure the socket is completely free of dirt. There may be enough of the
socket undamaged at the bottom to get a bite. If there is enough of the
head exposed, snap a pair of Vise-grips on. Also, try the Allen wrench and
Vise-grips together.

As someone else suggested, you can drill into the socket with a drill bit
that is just large enough to release the head when it gets deep enough.
This is hard to do, though, because most Allen bolts are very hard. Once
the head falls off, and there is no tension on the threads, you should be
able to turn the bolt, maybe even with your fingers.

As a last resort, welding a metal cross piece to the top of the bolt should
allow you to turn it.

There is a tool made which allows you to turn the bolt and hammer it at the
same time. This is good because it drives the Allen wrench against the
bottom of the socket, so it is less likely to slip. The impact combined
with torque is better than torque alone.
 
> Robert Lee wrote:
>> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
>> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
>> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
>> hex bolt off under these circumstances?

[email protected] wrote:
>>From the sounds of it (depression in the head) you're describing a
> socket head cap screw as opposed to a hex bolt. Either way, I've been
> sucessful in the past notching the screw (or bolt) with a very small
> dremel cutting wheel, and then unthreading it with a screwdriver. This
> depends on the size of the screw, the proximity of the stem it's
> recessed in and how concerned you are with a mark in the stem.
>
> Another option is an extracter. It's something of a modified drill bit
> that should drill into the screw itself, and then thread it out. I
> believe they are reverse thread.
>
> I'd wait & hope for a better idea before going with plan #1, but it can
> work in a pinch if you have access to a dremel & not an extracter (a
> far less common tool).

LOL. Not worth the time.
Instead of a screw extractor, once you have the drill in hand just
remove the head and lift off the stem. If you are going to wreck it
anyway go for the quick process.

Before that, though, try a square-drive allen of the next larger size in
another system (SAE, WW). Smash it into the bolt head with a hammer.
You can often get enough broach to remove the bolt that way.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
"A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Before that, though, try a square-drive allen of the next larger size in
> another system (SAE, WW). Smash it into the bolt head with a hammer. You
> can often get enough broach to remove the bolt that way.

Like I said, a suitable sized torx bit can work for this - I reckon more
likely to work than the next-sized up allen bit.

cheers,
clive
 
A Muzi wrote:
>> Robert Lee wrote:
>>> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>>> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
>>> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
>>> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
>>> hex bolt off under these circumstances?
>
> [email protected] wrote:
>>> From the sounds of it (depression in the head) you're describing a
>> socket head cap screw as opposed to a hex bolt. Either way, I've been
>> sucessful in the past notching the screw (or bolt) with a very small
>> dremel cutting wheel, and then unthreading it with a screwdriver. This
>> depends on the size of the screw, the proximity of the stem it's
>> recessed in and how concerned you are with a mark in the stem.
>>
>> Another option is an extracter. It's something of a modified drill bit
>> that should drill into the screw itself, and then thread it out. I
>> believe they are reverse thread.
>>
>> I'd wait & hope for a better idea before going with plan #1, but it can
>> work in a pinch if you have access to a dremel & not an extracter (a
>> far less common tool).
>
> LOL. Not worth the time.
> Instead of a screw extractor, once you have the drill in hand just
> remove the head and lift off the stem. If you are going to wreck it
> anyway go for the quick process.
>
> Before that, though, try a square-drive allen of the next larger size in
> another system (SAE, WW). Smash it into the bolt head with a hammer.
> You can often get enough broach to remove the bolt that way.

These are good tips. I've also heard that you can taper the next larger
size a bit with a stone or grinder to get it to jam in better. Sometimes
it's the Allen wrench itself that's the problem, old ones may be
rounded, cheap ones may be out of size. My first rule with stuck
screws/bolts: get the best bit/socket (fit, quality) you can.

I've never had any luck with screw extractors (Easy Outs), I have an
impact driver, works pretty good on things like this (smash and turn).

Anybody else notice how much **** Chinese steel is showing up in
fasteners? I just had major problems driving some 3" #12 wood screws --
heads rounded -- switched to another brand (similar price) - night & day
difference.
 
> "A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote
>> Before that, though, try a square-drive allen of the next larger size
>> in another system (SAE, WW). Smash it into the bolt head with a
>> hammer. You can often get enough broach to remove the bolt that way.

Clive George wrote:
> Like I said, a suitable sized torx bit can work for this - I reckon more
> likely to work than the next-sized up allen bit.

Sure, we're on the same page. A torx or a very slightly larger size can
bite in the remaining material -- especially if it is a socket-mounted
bit (hard to smack an L-allen key hard enough).

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
>>> Robert Lee wrote:
>>>> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>>>> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
>>>> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
>>>> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
>>>> hex bolt off under these circumstances?

>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>> From the sounds of it (depression in the head) you're describing a
>>> socket head cap screw as opposed to a hex bolt. Either way, I've been
>>> sucessful in the past notching the screw (or bolt) with a very small
>>> dremel cutting wheel, and then unthreading it with a screwdriver. This
>>> depends on the size of the screw, the proximity of the stem it's
>>> recessed in and how concerned you are with a mark in the stem.
>>> Another option is an extracter. It's something of a modified drill bit
>>> that should drill into the screw itself, and then thread it out. I
>>> believe they are reverse thread.
>>> I'd wait & hope for a better idea before going with plan #1, but it can
>>> work in a pinch if you have access to a dremel & not an extracter (a
>>> far less common tool).

> A Muzi wrote:
>> LOL. Not worth the time.
>> Instead of a screw extractor, once you have the drill in hand just
>> remove the head and lift off the stem. If you are going to wreck it
>> anyway go for the quick process.
>> Before that, though, try a square-drive allen of the next larger size
>> in another system (SAE, WW). Smash it into the bolt head with a
>> hammer. You can often get enough broach to remove the bolt that way.

Peter Cole wrote:
> These are good tips. I've also heard that you can taper the next larger
> size a bit with a stone or grinder to get it to jam in better. Sometimes
> it's the Allen wrench itself that's the problem, old ones may be
> rounded, cheap ones may be out of size. My first rule with stuck
> screws/bolts: get the best bit/socket (fit, quality) you can.
>
> I've never had any luck with screw extractors (Easy Outs), I have an
> impact driver, works pretty good on things like this (smash and turn).
>
> Anybody else notice how much **** Chinese steel is showing up in
> fasteners? I just had major problems driving some 3" #12 wood screws --
> heads rounded -- switched to another brand (similar price) - night & day
> difference.

Taper? Wouldn't that wreck your tool? You'd have to toss it after that.

We do grind the faces back on our allen/torx drivers regularly. That
keeps a crisp edge. We replace them every year or two - a bit or
L-wrench is not worth the cost of even one expensive fastener! We use
Wiha and Snap-On tools.

Cheap fasteners? Yes, and I for one think that is good - a broader
spectrum of choice is always good [Our vendor sells us German-made
metric machine screws/bolts/nuts which are good but not dirt cheap].
What isn't good is that consumers have not all caught up yet - and
assume every 10c thing today is just a 'better value' of the formerly $1
thing - not realizing that 98c of the quality has been extracted. . .
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
> Before that, though, try a square-drive allen of the next larger size in
> another system (SAE, WW). Smash it into the bolt head with a hammer. You
> can often get enough broach to remove the bolt that way.

Or a cheapie impact wrench. You might even be able to use a chisel (or a
screwdriver you don't care about) and put some notches into the original
bolt head, and then use the screwdriver head on the impact wrench to get it
off.

Or... in the event this is a two-bolt stem, remove the other bolt, which
will allow the other bolt to turn by hand, so it can be removed even by a
poor-fitting tool.

--Mike--
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com


"A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> Robert Lee wrote:
>>> Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>>> I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
>>> Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
>>> and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
>>> hex bolt off under these circumstances?
>
> [email protected] wrote:
>>>From the sounds of it (depression in the head) you're describing a
>> socket head cap screw as opposed to a hex bolt. Either way, I've been
>> sucessful in the past notching the screw (or bolt) with a very small
>> dremel cutting wheel, and then unthreading it with a screwdriver. This
>> depends on the size of the screw, the proximity of the stem it's
>> recessed in and how concerned you are with a mark in the stem.
>>
>> Another option is an extracter. It's something of a modified drill bit
>> that should drill into the screw itself, and then thread it out. I
>> believe they are reverse thread.
>>
>> I'd wait & hope for a better idea before going with plan #1, but it can
>> work in a pinch if you have access to a dremel & not an extracter (a
>> far less common tool).
>
> LOL. Not worth the time.
> Instead of a screw extractor, once you have the drill in hand just remove
> the head and lift off the stem. If you are going to wreck it anyway go for
> the quick process.
>
> Before that, though, try a square-drive allen of the next larger size in
> another system (SAE, WW). Smash it into the bolt head with a hammer. You
> can often get enough broach to remove the bolt that way.
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> www.yellowjersey.org
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 10:46:56 -0600, Robert Lee <[email protected]> may
have said:

>Re: Stripped Thread on Hex Bolt
>
>I over-tightened the hex bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars.
>Now the six-sided depression in the head of the bolt has been damaged,
>and I can't unscrew the hex bolt. Is there a technique for getting the
>hex bolt off under these circumstances?

There are several.

Sometimes, the bolt will loosen and come out via the use of an
undamaged hex key if the bottom of the hex socket in the bolt head is
smartly rapped with a suitable punch and hammer. This is hazardous to
the part into which the bolt is screwed, however, particularly if the
part is aluminum.

The judicious use of a reversible drill and a left-handed bit of the
same nominal diameter as the hex recess will quite often spin the bolt
out at the same time that it shears off the outer rim of the bolt's
head. Down sides: Employed incorrectly, this technique can ruin the
part into which the bolt is screwed. and left-handed drill bits are
not readily available everywhere.

If the stem is aluminum and the steerer is steel, heating the stem may
relieve the clamping pressure enough to allow the bolt to be loosened
with an undamaged hex key. Heating it too much can damage it. "Too
much" is a point that is typically identified after the fact.

Last but not least...

Someone Else's Talent often can solve problems more economically than
will be achieved via the application of suggested but previously
unlearned and/or devised but untested methods.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Freehub stripped thread - 105 Shimano
Replies
0
Views
3K
Cycling Equipment
Mike B
M
M
Freehub stripped thread - 105 Shimano
Replies
0
Views
3K
Cycling Equipment
Mike B
M
F
Crank thread stripped: what now?
Replies
28
Views
1K
Cycling Equipment
!Jones
J
A
Can't remove crank - thread stripped
Replies
10
Views
732
Cycling Equipment
Earl Bollinger
E
M
How do I fix a spoke that is loose due to stripped threads?
Replies
16
Views
276
Cycling Equipment
mandalay_lady
M
Top Bottom Back