Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

stem/bar compatibility

Started by pg · · Last activity · 2 posts · 395 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
7 August 2006
Last activity
7 August 2006
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pg
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  1. After my Ritchey WCS stem cracked near the lower bolt on steerer tube
    end (on downhill, but didnt fall), I replaced with the only stem local
    shop had: FSA 150 OS. Handlebars are Ritchey WCS 31.8. New and old
    stem indicate 31.8 diameter as well, but I noticed that, with new FAS,
    handlebar clamp has about 2 mm gap between faceplate and stem body, on
    both top and bottom . Also, Ti bolts coming from faceplate seem to be
    seated about half way into the ful length of the threads on stem body.
    I can get several full turns of bolts. but Im used to seeing bolts
    extend beyond the end of the threads on back side.

    On old setup the faceplate pretty much made contact with stem on top on
    bottom. Is the new setup normal variation in gap between faceplate
    body of stem, or could this be a compatibility issue?
    thanks
    Peter

  2. pg said:

    After my Ritchey WCS stem cracked near the lower bolt on steerer tube
    end (on downhill, but didnt fall), I replaced with the only stem local
    shop had: FSA 150 OS. Handlebars are Ritchey WCS 31.8. New and old
    stem indicate 31.8 diameter as well, but I noticed that, with new FAS,
    handlebar clamp has about 2 mm gap between faceplate and stem body, on
    both top and bottom . Also, Ti bolts coming from faceplate seem to be
    seated about half way into the ful length of the threads on stem body.
    I can get several full turns of bolts. but Im used to seeing bolts
    extend beyond the end of the threads on back side.

    On old setup the faceplate pretty much made contact with stem on top on
    bottom. Is the new setup normal variation in gap between faceplate
    body of stem, or could this be a compatibility issue?
    thanks
    Peter

    The gap between stem and faceplate varies from stem to stem. Some
    makers try and minimize it as much as possible, perhaps because they've
    got a theory that it might make a difference to get them super close.
    Note that it's important for the bolts to be engaged evenly so that
    they're not both at an angle when secured. Usually this is done by
    making sure the gap on both the top and bottom are equal as you tighten
    them back and fourth until they're all not moving when under final
    torque.

    It's also pretty normal for handlebar mounting threads to be deep or go
    all the way through the stem, but if by "I can get several turns of the
    bolts" you mean there's literally only several complete threads engaged
    on the bolts then something is wrong.

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