shimano ultegra

simon h said:

i bought a specialized tarmac with ultegra components the other day. the first two times i took it out everything was fine. then, when i went for a ride today, instead of the gears changing really smoothly, the crank was jumping when i made a change instead of the smooth click you usually get. please can someone tell me what screw i have to tighten to sort out the problem. is this common? 😕thank you.

Hey,

If you just bought the bike, usually, after a few miles the bike shop will give you a free tune-up to fix the minor adjustments.

simon h said:

i bought a specialized tarmac with ultegra components the other day. the first two times i took it out everything was fine. then, when i went for a ride today, instead of the gears changing really smoothly, the crank was jumping when i made a change instead of the smooth click you usually get. please can someone tell me what screw i have to tighten to sort out the problem. is this common? 😕thank you.

There should be THREE cable adjusters on your bike -- one is on the rear derailleur (where the LAST bit of cable housing meets the rear derailleur) AND two on the frame (where the derailleur cable housings exiting their respective shifters meet the frame).

The adjuster on the LEFT side of the frame adjusts the front derailleur cable's tension ...

Shift the front derailleur onto the smaller/smallest ring (i.e., smallest if it is a triple crank) ... this should be done when the chain is moving ... a work stand is beneficial.

IF the chain is already on the smallest ring, then click the inner blade lever to ensure that the cable is as slack as it will be.

Note the amount of slack in the cable ... now, if you "unscrew" the cable adjuster (turn it counter-clockwise) ONE turn (360º) some or all of the slack will be removed -- although the derailleur cable will be taut, you WILL be able to press it against the bike's downtube without too much effort (probably less than 5 lbs. of pressure). The front derailleur cage should NOT move as you tighten the cable ... if it does, you have made it too tight (presuming that the front derailleur's stops are properly adjusted).

The cable adjuster has some indents to prevent it from slipping, so when you turn it, you WILL encounter some resistance.

If you are lacking a work stand, go out and ride down the block enough to shift the derailleur so that you can observe whether or not that "fixes" the problem by efficiently moving the chain onto the larger chainring.

To remove the slack on the REAR derailleur's cable, do the same thing with the cable adjuster on the right side of the bike.

Make the cable as slack as it will go by "clicking" the inner blade until it stops actively making a clicking noise AND the chain is on the smallest cog ... remove the slack from the cable while ensuring that the derailleur does NOT move.

DO NOT adjust the cable tension by using cable adjuster that is on the rear derailleur ... it has a specific function -- 'nuff said regarding its function for now!

DO bring the bike in sooner-rather-than later because something more serious may have happened -- for example, while unlikely, the front derailleur's clamp may have slipped down on the seat tube.

DO bring the bike in for a FREE tune-up at your earliest convenience from the bike shop that you bought the bike from ... the shop should have advised you that you were entitled to at least ONE free tune up, if not a year's worth of free tune ups ... otherwise, there is NO reason to buy from a local bike shop.

Just my opinion, but if the shop you bought the bike from doesn't provide a year's worth of free tune ups (there are fewer things for the shop to do now than 25 years ago since many contemporary components cannot be adjusted -- but, they can "fail" prematurely) then you should be sure to let your family-and-friends know that the shop is one to be avoided for future purchase ... and, buy through mail order in the future. Why pay retail if you aren't receiving appropriate customer service?

However, don't be a nuisance ... ask them to show you which adjustments you can perform yourself ...

I know one person who didn't realize that HE had to put air in his bike's tires ... a few weeks after picking up his bike his tires may have had 70-to-80 lbs. of pressure in them ... he apparently thought the tires would somehow still be at full pressure ... putting air in the tires is NOT a part of routine maintenance that the shop is responsible for.

I agree with alfreng. Your dealer should be giving you a year of free adjustments.

When you ride, your cables will stretch, causing the shifting to become less than perfect (this will also happen to your brakes). In the shop I work at, we LOVE to have customers come in for free adjustments. Your dealer will appreciate your feedback and you will benefit from a continued relationship with your dealer.

There may also be bicycle clubs in your area that offer basic bicycle maintenance classes.