Sealed cartridge assemblies

Apologies) (Tom said:

Does anyone know where there is a page or so on sealed cartridge wheel
hubs? I was wondering how different they are to cone type hubs.
Do they have a spacer between bearings or just outside the bearings to
fit the frame spacing? etc. etc.
thanks
Neil. Regards,
Neil.

Neil

Barnett's Manual, Chapter 13 covers them, Sheldon Brown does not. Yo
can often pick up chapters of Barnett off the Web. Go to
http://www.bbinstitute.com/manual.htm#order/download and scroll to th
bottom of the page

Campagnolo show parts lists, exploded views (I hope mine neve
explode!) and some servicing instructions on their Web page. Perhap
the manufacturer of yours has a similar service

I have not seen spacers between the ball races. The ones I have worke
on have the races pressed into recesses in the hub shell. The axl
either slips into the centre of the race or, for Suntour and I thin
others, the axle is threaded and carries a part which slides inside th
race. The thread is used to adjust the bearing pre-load. Bicycle hub
are not usually very complex devices

Hope this helps

John Retchfor

-

John Retchford said:

Barnett's Manual, Chapter 13 covers them, Sheldon Brown does not. You
can often pick up chapters of Barnett off the Web. Go to:
http://www.bbinstitute.com/manual.htm#order/download and scroll to the
bottom of the page.

Thanks a lot John.

I was curious about converting the hubs I have from cone and ball to
cartridge. By the sound of it, it may be reasonable simple if the the
cartidges fit where the ball cups are at present.

Regards,

Neil.

Apologies) (Tom said:

Thanks a lot John.
I was curious about converting the hubs I have from cone and ball to
cartridge. By the sound of it, it may be reasonable simple if the the
cartidges fit where the ball cups are at present.
Regards,
Neil.

I certainly would not be fitting ball races to existing hubs intende
for cups and cones. For a start you would need to remove the cups
which is not always easy, then you would need to machine the hub shell
to the appropriate interference fit for the race outer. This would mea
unlacing the wheel to get the hub shell into the lathe. You would the
have to make pieces to thread on the axle in place of the cones and b
the correct fit in the ball race inner. These parts are made o
hardened steel. Why would you want to do all that when you could b
cycling instead

I take it that your hubs have failed. If you can't buy the failed par
(cones are often available, cups harder to come by) slap some new hub
in. Fairly modestly priced ones from decent makers give good servic
with only an annual strip and grease. The best hubs offered by Shiman
and Campagnolo use cups and cones

John Retchfor

-

John Retchford said:

I take it that your hubs have failed. If you can't buy the failed part
(cones are often available, cups harder to come by) slap some new hubs
in. Fairly modestly priced ones from decent makers give good service
with only an annual strip and grease. The best hubs offered by Shimano
and Campagnolo use cups and cones.

John Retchford

Interesting that the best offered by Shimano etc. have cups and cones.
I would have thought that sealed cartridge would leave the others for
dead. I am also inclined to think a cartridge would be available to
suit the bore where the cup is pressed in John. I noticed that 6002
and few other completely standard bearing sizes are in use. Bike shops
had them listed for $35.00 (replacement bearings) any engineering
person (ie. me) would know the bearing is worth about $3.00 to $5.00
at most. They list them as "special" single seal with special grease.
Mumma mia! and other expletives!

I agree fully on I'd rather be riding, but on a rainy day I like to
tinker with the treadly. Mines an absolute mongrel 18 speed steel
framed hardtail which has gone from a supermarket special to a fairly
good bike (except frame) bit by bit on rainy days. But I like it. My
nephew thinks I'm nuts and he's probably right.

Thanks for your reply,

Regards,

Neil.