UK and Europe · Public discussion

Removing worn spd cleats

Started by Simon L · · Last activity · 5 posts · 483 views

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UK and Europe
Published
12 May 2006
Last activity
12 May 2006
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Simon L
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  1. I think I've had my cleat - shoe combo for five or six years now - the
    biggest problem I've had is the cleats twisting in the shoe (solution,
    tighten the assemly some more) so that over time, with rust and wear on
    top, I've got over-tightened bolts with worn heads keeping the cleat in
    place.

    After twisting the cleat again last week (me and the mtb parted ways)
    I've realised I can't budge the bolts, one now looking quite rounded,
    the other doesn't fit any allen key I've got - the suggestion is that
    over time a flange has worn inwards in the key hole.

    Is the problem of twisting cleats a common one? I generally run my
    spuds at their loosest setting.

    Should I try and refrain from walking on my shoes (and cleats)? This
    option seems a bit daft.

  2. "Simon L" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I think I've had my cleat - shoe combo for five or six years now - the
    biggest problem I've had is the cleats twisting in the shoe (solution,
    tighten the assemly some more) so that over time, with rust and wear on
    top, I've got over-tightened bolts with worn heads keeping the cleat in
    place.

    After twisting the cleat again last week (me and the mtb parted ways)
    I've realised I can't budge the bolts, one now looking quite rounded,
    the other doesn't fit any allen key I've got - the suggestion is that
    over time a flange has worn inwards in the key hole.

    I've had success in the past undoing 4mm allen headed bolts (wot my spds are
    fitted with) using a similar sized torx bit (possibly hammered in).

    Alternatively if the shoes have the removable plate that you had to put in
    when fitting the cleats, just drill the top of the head off and it'll all
    come apart. You can then remove the stubs of thread from the plate in the
    comfort of your own workshop/kitchen.
    (shimano sandals and w100 boots have the plate built into the shoe, so this
    won't work for them. But if nothing else works, you could probably drill out
    the stubs of the bolts from the plate if you're careful).

    cheers,
    clive

  3. Simon L said:

    Is the problem of twisting cleats a common one? I generally run my
    spuds at their loosest setting.

    I have found it a problem in the past, but since I took to lightly
    greasing the threads on the cleat bolts I've found it easier to tighten
    them to the point it's a non-issue /and/ easier to undo them afterwards.

    Quoted message said:

    Should I try and refrain from walking on my shoes (and cleats)? This
    option seems a bit daft.

    It does, doesn't it... And I can't see why it would help, to be honest.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  4. Simon L said:

    After twisting the cleat again last week (me and the mtb parted ways)
    I've realised I can't budge the bolts, one now looking quite rounded,
    the other doesn't fit any allen key I've got - the suggestion is that
    over time a flange has worn inwards in the key hole.

    Is the problem of twisting cleats a common one? I generally run my
    spuds at their loosest setting.

    No. If you do the bolts up tight enough to start with (there will be
    recommended torque wrench settings in the leaflet that comes with your
    cleats or shoes) the cleats shouldn't twist when you unclip from the pedals,
    including falls. If they do, there's probably something wrong with the cleat
    plate in the shoe.

    To get the bolt out, try cutting a slot for a flathead screwdriver across
    the head with a Dremel or similar. Douse in plusgas and leave for a bit
    before you try and unscrew it.

    Quoted message said:

    Should I try and refrain from walking on my shoes (and cleats)? This
    option seems a bit daft.

    Shoes with recessed cleats would be a better option. Most MTB shoes have the
    recess anyway; if you need a recommendation then Cannondale make nice ones
    IMO. Even with a recess, the nose of the cleat will still scritch on the
    floor a bit, but you won't need to walk like a duck.

    Regards,

    -david

  5. "Simon L" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Is the problem of twisting cleats a common one? I generally run my
    spuds at their loosest setting.

    I've been using spd's on various shoes & boots, road & off-road for 14 years
    and never had one twist. I use copperease grease when fitting them (although
    I may not have done 14 years ago, I can't remember that far back ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    Should I try and refrain from walking on my shoes (and cleats)? This
    option seems a bit daft.

    Erm, seeing as the design is to allow normal walking as well as riding it's
    a lot daft :-)

    Regardless of whether the fixing is part of the shoe or merely a loose plate
    drilling the head off so the cleat comes off will leave a short stud that
    can be gripped with a mole grip and undone. I have had to do this, that much
    I can remember.

    Pete

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