UK and Europe · Public discussion

Re: tweak tweak then tweak a little bit more

Started by Martin Wilson · · Last activity · 2 posts · 714 views

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UK and Europe
Published
28 February 2005
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1 March 2005
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Martin Wilson
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  1. jas0n said:

    been trying to make the bike I bought from ebay functional today, didnt
    do too badly, but needs more work ...

    What bike did you buy? New or secondhand?

    Quoted message said:

    so far had to tighten the seat bolt as the saddle is wobbly, think it
    might need a washer as it was a bit looser again after a short ride.

    If your anything like me at first I had the saddle quite low to the
    frame but as my experience grew the saddle was raised a bit at a time.
    So adjusting the saddle height and tilt might be something you do a
    lot in the first month or so.

    Quoted message said:

    i pumped up the tyres and got some green goo type stuff come out of them
    whilst doing it - they must be slime innertubes - lovely stuff!

    Don't forget to always take a spare inner tube about with you too.
    Puncture repairs to tubes are best done at home. Also take a small
    pair of rough old tweezers with you to pull out whatever got through
    the tyre to cause the puncture, in addition to normal necessary
    spanners and tyre levers.

    Quoted message said:

    the dynamo is too close to the tyre to push/engage so theres some more
    adjusting to be done, although its not rubbing so left alone for now.

    had to adjust the v brakes as rear one was rubbing and mudguard rubbing
    too ... the rears i dont think are centered.

    If its anything like my bike I tend to have the front v brake set
    pretty close to the rim as the front wheel is pretty immune to going
    out of true and make sure you set the toe in on the brake blocks to
    reduce braking noise/squeal. Setting the toe in only lasts for me
    about a month before I have to do it again. I tend to have the rear
    brake set with a greater gap as its more likely to go out slightly of
    true sometimes.

    Quoted message said:

    so went out on a litle test ride - the gear range has definately
    improved from my previous 6 speed although the front cage seems to rub
    on a fair number of gears - I could trim it away for some of them but
    definately needs some adjustment.

    Its the same for me on the left gear shifter I use '2' and just past
    '2' like a sort of '2.1' setting as this eliminates front cage
    knocking in some gears.

    Quoted message said:

    after all this i think id possibly be better off just dropping it off at
    a decent bike shop and getting it serviced properly although i spose
    doing it yourself helps you when things go wrong in the field

    Personally I prefer to do it myself. When I first got my cheapo ebay
    bike I found for the first 2 weeks I was tweaking the spokes to get
    the rear wheel back to true a fair bit. Where as the front wheel was
    only ever done once and that was after a minor accident. The point is
    I would have been at the LBS quite a lot and spent a lot of money. My
    local dealer is very expensive and very profiteering but you may have
    a more down to earth fair priced LBS to go to. My LBS quoted me £60 to
    tweak/true 4 wheels. Everytime I've spoken to my local LBS the prices
    quoted are far higher than most people elsewhere would expect to pay I
    think. That £60 went a long way in equipping me with some decent bike
    tools and trueing myself didn't take long to learn thanks to numerous
    helpful websites. I'm semi reasonable at doing it now.

  2. jas0n said:


    its certainly not in the 'as new' condition the seller put on his ad but
    it isnt in bad shape and once tweaked a bit more should at least get me
    out and about again in time for the better weather (at this weight and
    fitness level im definately a fair weather cyclist but once i get into
    it properly and get the fitness level back and lose a fair chunk of the
    weight i'll be wanting to upgrade the bike and start going out in
    whatever the weather ... as of right now though i cant enjoy it all that
    much as im too unfit and overweight and the rattles still need tweaking
    out ..... all of which will sort themselves out the more i get on and
    ride 😉

    Seems like a nice bike. Strong high tensile steel frame and some
    pretty good components fitted.

    Quoted message said:

    i keep saddle height in line with put pedal to bottom of rotation and
    knee is slightly bent - works fine for me.

    At first I didn't do this as my balance wasn't amazing on my bike. I
    liked to be able to put my feet out quickly to touch the ground.
    However I'm riding a mountain bike so the clearance is higher I think.
    Anyway sitting on the saddle I have to have the bike tipped either
    left or right for my feet to touch the ground now.

    Quoted message said:

    im only going to gym and back for a few weeks and on way back will just
    go round the block a few times - my cycle legs are a distant memory and
    my perceived fitness was oh so optimistic 😉

    i did take my exercise bike into my office for lunch time spins but been
    a busy week being out and about so ive had plenty of excuses not to get
    on it which ive taken .... !

    My regime is one where I always do the exercise but give in on the
    dieting a fair bit. Over the weekend I did 140km on my exercise bike
    at the highest friction level. How successful this will counteract the
    numerous curries and apple pies I've also scoffed is debatable but
    generally mon-fri I keep fairly rigidly to a sensible diet.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the dynamo is too close to the tyre to push/engage so theres some more
    adjusting to be done, although its not rubbing so left alone for now.

    had to adjust the v brakes as rear one was rubbing and mudguard rubbing
    too ... the rears i dont think are centered.


    I found with my cheap ebay bike that after about 3 weeks of riding I
    had to tighten the axle cups on the rear wheel as the rear bearings
    bedded in and became more lose. As a heavier rider like myself the
    rear wheel seems to be the thing that needs most attention and
    monitoring more than anything else.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Its the same for me on the left gear shifter I use '2' and just past
    '2' like a sort of '2.1' setting as this eliminates front cage
    knocking in some gears.

    yes, i'll have to sort that out as rattles drive me nuts - havent had a
    close look yet as I didnt have all my tools with me at the time.

    This isn't a problem related to heavier riders its something all
    cyclists appear to have due to the angle of the chain between extreme
    gears. Fine tuning of the front derailleur position is one of those
    skills you develop over time as you use the bike. I tend to ride
    almost 100% of the time with a mp3 player and so sometimes don't hear
    it though.

    Quoted message said:

    just so glad ive got a range of gears I can use - even if im hardly
    moving on the really easy ones - its still better than walking - in fact
    it'll probably be better for me to stay in the easy ones whilst just
    doing the local runs to help me start to build those spin muscles I hear
    folk on about - that its better to spin than push a higher gear -
    certainly sounds logical to me - i think i used to spin at 80 on an
    exercise bike at the gym.

    Yes I've heard you can do in your knees constantly using as high a
    gear as possible but must admit I ride that way. As a heavier rider my
    legs are quite heavy too and I'm more comfortable with power delivery
    rather than high cadence. However as I lose weight I think I'm
    gradually shifting the other way. The point is though I find high
    cadence more exhausting I think even with a lesser load. My bike
    generally lacks high gearing though. I think in its highest gear on
    the flats with a normal cadence it probably only goes to about 20-22
    miles per hour. So to get to 30mph for example for short spurts takes
    a very high cadence indeed and can only be achieved when the road
    pitch is slightly in my favour.

    Quoted message said:


    the basics seem to come back fairly quickly, just the leaning over the
    bike and kneeling hurts me back these days!!!

    ive a fair few tools i use in my work that are perfect for most of my
    cycling basics so didnt need and had a few more specific bike ones from
    last time I bought the 6 geared thing!

    I bought one of these;

    http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=T1014

    Both the main toolkit and chain cleaner are very useful. Theres
    something strangely satisfying about watching the chain cleaner in
    action taking off all the crud using the degreaser and then using it
    again to apply fresh oil. Removing the rear freewheel to get to the
    bearings is quite an important thing to do occasionally as is getting
    to the bottom bracket and servicing it. Practically anything you need
    specific to bikes is included with this toolkit. The only thing
    missing is a good set of wire cutters.

    One of these is also super handy for wheel trueing and cleaning and
    adjusting gears and the chain.

    http://www.probikekit.com/supersize.php?code=A1284

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