Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Re: SImano Uniglide update questions

Started by Dave Mayer · · Last activity · 5 posts · 798 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
4 October 2004
Last activity
5 October 2004
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Dave Mayer
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  1. "Retro Bob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a Uniglide hub I am toying with using. I read Sheldon's page
    on Uniglide vs.Hyperglide and I understand all that. It says that most
    Shimano hubs (my uniglide) can be upgraded to Hyperglide if you don't
    hit these conditions:

    1. Very early freehubs (identifiable by the absence of the typical
    bulge on the right end of the hub barrel) which have
    non-interchangeable bodies.

    Bob: I have several wheels built with 6-speed Uniglide hubs that Shimano
    made in the early 80's. They are cassette hubs, but do not have the bulge
    in the hub waist. They were 6-speed, they have a grease injection port in
    the waist of the hub, the cassette bodies are Uniglide (all the splines are
    the same width) and the smallest cog threads on. You cannot use a normal
    cassette lockring on these, because the inside lip of the freehub body is
    not threaded. They are very likely 36 hole.

    Contrary to what Sheldon says, you can upgrade these, but this is about as
    complex a job as you can find on a bike. In the words of my bike shop pal:
    "this is brain surgery". I have done this 6 times.

    The freehub bodies are press-fit onto the hub shells. A normal Shimano
    freehub fits on this - 7,8,9 speed. First you must pull the old freehub
    off. Shimano made a tool for this. Good luck finding one. Amazingly, a
    freewheel body threads on to the freehub body. This (and a hub axle and
    some washers) can be used a the basis of a makeshift puller.

    What attaches the freehub body onto the hub is a 10mm long male projection
    on the hub. This takes the place of the threaded hollow bolt on the modern
    Shimano freehubs. Note that this connector will have to be slightly ground
    on the outside to make the freehub fit. This is a one-minute job because
    the projection is just soft aluminum. Use blue locktite upon pressing the
    new cassette hub back onto the body.

    Why spend time on this? I like the convenient grease injection port. But
    most importantly: because this hub does not have the body bulge, the steel
    bolt, and steel threaded insert, it is the lightest thing on the planet. My
    current project is merging XTR hub parts onto these. The very light 600EX
    cassette hub body will then have the titanium axle and freehub body.

  2. In article <TO18d.603973$gE.59382@pd7tw3no>,

    Dave Mayer said:

    "Retro Bob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a Uniglide hub I am toying with using. I read Sheldon's page
    on Uniglide vs.Hyperglide and I understand all that. It says that most
    Shimano hubs (my uniglide) can be upgraded to Hyperglide if you don't
    hit these conditions:

    1. Very early freehubs (identifiable by the absence of the typical
    bulge on the right end of the hub barrel) which have
    non-interchangeable bodies.

    Quoted message said:

    Bob: I have several wheels built with 6-speed Uniglide hubs that Shimano
    made in the early 80's. They are cassette hubs, but do not have the bulge
    in the hub waist. They were 6-speed, they have a grease injection port in
    the waist of the hub, the cassette bodies are Uniglide (all the splines are
    the same width) and the smallest cog threads on. You cannot use a normal
    cassette lockring on these, because the inside lip of the freehub body is
    not threaded. They are very likely 36 hole.

    Contrary to what Sheldon says, you can upgrade these, but this is about as
    complex a job as you can find on a bike. In the words of my bike shop pal:
    "this is brain surgery". I have done this 6 times.


    [...]

    Quoted message said:

    Why spend time on this? I like the convenient grease injection port. But
    most importantly: because this hub does not have the body bulge, the steel
    bolt, and steel threaded insert, it is the lightest thing on the planet. My
    current project is merging XTR hub parts onto these. The very light 600EX
    cassette hub body will then have the titanium axle and freehub body.

    Dave: you really ought to write this into an article for Sheldon. It's
    pretty classic insane stuff.

    --
    Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com
    Verus de parvis; verus de magnis.

  3. Ryan Cousineau <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
    <snip>

    Quoted message said:


    Dave: you really ought to write this into an article for Sheldon. It's
    pretty classic insane stuff.

    *Seriously* insane stuff...

    BTW- how light are the hubs when you're finished? Is there any
    possibility that a body from a Shimano DX BMX freehub would fit? I'm
    thinking of building an ultra-light single speed...

    Jeff


  4. Quoted message said:

    BTW- how light are the hubs when you're finished? Is there any
    possibility that a body from a Shimano DX BMX freehub would fit? I'm
    thinking of building an ultra-light single speed...

    Jeff

    Jeff: I recently had a boxed set of DX hubs that I sold on Ebay. The hub
    shells looked like any other standard Shimano rear hub. I don't know if the
    freehub attachment is the same as other Shimano cassette hubs, but I woudn't
    be surprised to find that it is.

    Weight: a 9-speed rear Dura-Ace hub is around 310 grams. The XTR hub is
    slightly lighter due to it having a titanium axle. So my bastardized
    Shimano 600EX/XTR hub would come in at less than 300 grams. Keep in mind
    that the small-fry hub makers tend to quote hub weights without a skewer.
    This weight includes the excellent Shimano skewer.

    My next mutation of this would be lighten it further by pulling off the
    steel left-hand dust cap and replacing with plastic. Then replace the
    stainless steel balls with ceramics. Then I get out the drill... He He...

  5. "Dave Mayer" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    news:3gn8d.609460$M95.30115@pd7tw1no:

    Quoted message said:

    My next mutation of this would be lighten it further by pulling off
    the steel left-hand dust cap and replacing with plastic. Then replace
    the stainless steel balls with ceramics. Then I get out the drill...
    He He...

    I have a set of these hubs, too - I'm not sure what model, though. Is it
    worth resuscitating them?

    --
    to email me, run my email address through /usr/bin/caesar
    (or rotate by -4)

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